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| Sunset over Mount Adams from Camp Muir |
Guide services are still utilizing the Ingraham Direct route at this time. The
route is still in good condition and is expected to be in use for the next week
or so. The Ingraham Direct route has migrated climber’s left towards Gibraltar
Rock from a couple weeks ago. It is no longer switch-backing over to the top of
the Disappointment Cleaver. This route variation avoids the large serac hazard
that was present on the previous route variation.
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Ingraham Direct Route from Ingraham Flats
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| Overview of the current Ingraham Direct route from 07/09/2022 |
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| Icefall and rockfall coming off Gibraltar Rock |
Serac hazard is minimized with this route change, but rockfall and icefall
hazard from Gibraltar Rock are of concern. The mountain is seeing increasing
freezing levels over the course of the weekend, reaching 15,000 feet levels by
Monday. These are the highest freezing levels the mountain has seen this year
and only the second significant warming event. Intermittent clouds will be shrouding
the mountain all weekend and may prevent substantial overnight recovery. Don't be
surprised by soft climbing conditions, softening snow-bridges and more climbers on the mountain. Mitigate hazards by climbing early, taking breaks in strategic
locations, and getting back to camp early.
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| Ladder spanning crevasse on Ingraham Direct |
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| Second ladder crossing on Ingraham Direct |
There are currently two ladders on the route starting at roughly 11,600' adjacent to
Gibraltar Rock. The first ladder is horizontal, spanning a relatively narrow crack, and has planks covering the rungs allowing for a fairly simple
crossing. The second ladder crossing is made up of two ladders lashed together
spanning a wider crack and at an upwards 45 degree angle. There is a handline
secured with pickets above this ladder. This ladder crossing is more complex and parties may be struggling or
moving slowly here. Expect bottleneck at ladder crossings, be patient, be courteous, stick together, and keep
a head’s up for rockfall and icefall coming off of rocks.
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| Looking down on Camp Comfort from 13,500 feet |
