Emmons-Winthrop Update

The most trodden Emmons-Winthrop route remains generally similar to what it was a week ago, but with much warmer temps, crevasse crossings have begun to melt out, and the route has switched to go over alternate crossings in some areas. While the clearest boot pack may still clearly lead to older crossings, it’s a good idea to evaluate each one, as changing conditions may have negated their stability. Always remember that the boot pack here is simply where people have walked before, and that it doesn’t necessarily mean that the route it takes is the safest or most advisable. This route is constantly changing, especially with warmer temps.

Crevasses above the corridor

The route at glacier basin still crosses over white river via snow, but this crossing is moving higher as the snow melts. Caution is advised when choosing a route in this area.

Glacier Basin

Recently there's also been an uptick in the number of climbers travelling un-roped, including climbers ascending the Emmons glacier to Camp Schurman, coming off rope as they descend the corridor, and even travelling off rope for their entire ascent of the upper mountain. This is extremely ill-advised. Significant hazards are always present in these areas, and with warmer temperatures the odds of punching through into an unseen crevasse are even higher. 

The mountain viewed from Camp Schurman

Crevasses are present in the lower Emmons, between Camp Schurman and the Emmons Flats, and throughout the upper mountain. Climbers who feel they are in an area where the risk of an un-arrestable fall is higher than that of taking a crevasse fall should consider other measures, such as placing running protection, and adjusting rope spacing.