Summer is finally here on Mount Rainier! Freezing levels rose to 14,000' over the weekend removing much of the lingering uncertainty regarding snow stability on the Emmons-Winthrop route. The summit is currently accessible via a multiple route options.
As summer sets in, crevasses will rapidly begin to open and the danger from crevasse fall will increase. Climbers who find themselves on the upper mountain when the snow conditions turn to slush are taking on more risk and should be descending as quickly as is prudent.
The snow on the Inter and lower Emmons glaciers is still finishing up it's spring transition and does not support weight well when warm. Because of this, account for longer-than-usual approach times to camp. There are some crevasses already opening on the Emmons between Camp Curtis and Camp Schurman. The largest of which is no more than 15 feet below camp.
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| Crevasse opening up outside of Camp Schurman. Note the approach path and ski tracks. This is surprisingly common, and illustrates the need to constantly assess the route. Just because others have travelled there before, it doesn't mean it's still safe to do so. |
Multiple route options exist on the upper mountain. The map below shows a route that is quite direct, but gets fairly steep above 13,400'. The other noteworthy option is to traverse out to the Winthrop Saddle at about 13,400' to cross the final bergschrund. Just be aware, the crevasse bridge that makes this variation possible may fall out soon. Always be prepared for the route to fall out behind you, as you may need to on-sight a new descent path or climb back to the summit and descend an alternate route.
For climbers that are considering climbing Liberty Ridge and the descending down the Emmons-Winthrop, it's always best to know first-hand the descent route and it's possible variations, as it's not always an easy on-sight.
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| Track from route on 6/25 |
