The Disappointment Cleaver route as seen a few minor changes, though the overall flavor remains quite similar to the previous DC post. There is still only one ladder, which crosses a crevasse at 13,000'. The orientation is off vertical, and the ladder about eight feet tall - see the photo at the end of this post.
The transition from ice to rock while gaining the bottom of the cleaver has been more "sporty" as the glacier recedes from the rock. The plug/fin of snow that climbers use to access the cleaver crosses a deep moat. This area is prone to rockfall from above so climbers should move quickly, but it's also a place where climbers do not want to trip or fall due to the deep moat. Efficient and sure-footed travel is advised.
The wind over the weekend was especially strong. Remember to secure tents and equipment while out climbing. Better yet, drop the tent poles and flatten your tent in order to reduce the profile during these larger wind events. Its a real drag to get back to camp and find out your tent took sail and has nested in the depths of a crevasse.
Rockfall tends to increase during periods of heavy winds. While traveling along the rocky sections of the route such as the cleaver and Cathedral Gap, remember to keep your head on a swivel and keep a lookout for falling rock. In addition to keeping your eyes peeled, do your best to avoid knocking rocks down while climbing or descending, especially if there are climbers below you on the route.
Stay safe, stay courteous and happy climbing!
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| Looking towards Ingraham Flats from the "Nose" of the Cleaver |
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| A busy route just downhill from the 13,000' ladder. |
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| The hollowing fin of snow at the base of the cleaver. |
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| The hand line crossing "High Crack" and the track leading towards the base of the cleaver. |
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| Ladder at 13,000'. This is the only ladder currently in use on the DC route. |
