Perhaps most relevant to climbers and skiers will be the increased avalanche hazard. Due to the rapidly rising freezing level and solar input that is forecasted, new and wind transported snow from earlier in the week and a large number of possible triggers (abundant backcountry travelers, cornice fall, pinwheels, glacial movement, etc.) backcountry travelers should approach avalanche terrain with a wary eye.
This past week, climbing parties triggered several small wind slabs that had developed in pockets of new snow at around 13,000ft on the south side of the mountain. These slabs released above the teams and slid on a firm bed surface. Small loose wet slides were also observed on the lower cleaver. With warming predicted through the weekend, wind slab sensitivity is expected to increase and loose-wet avalanches are also expected. Persistent deep instabilities may still exist on the upper mountain, especially on more northerly aspects. Be up on your avalanche awareness game this weekend!
For those coming up for a one-day adventure, make sure you're set up for success with regards to permits and fees - single-push climbers and upper-mountain (glaciated) skiers need to pay the cost recovery fee and get a climbing permit.
Climbers on the Emmons-Winthrop route should expect a fair bit of new snow, and complex glacial route-finding, as there has been very little traffic on the route. Take the time to assess crevasse crossings, be willing to end-run them, and have a plan in case the bridge falls out before you come back down.
Climbers on the Disappointment Cleaver route should expect a busy weekend, and take care in areas exposed to rockfall.
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| Screenshot of the Disappoint Cleaver Route as of May 13th. Route remains largely the same. |
With good weather, there will be lots of people in the back-country as well as the front-country. Please be considerate of how your actions may affect another, help each other when needed, and enjoy any opportunities to put yourself at service to others this Memorial Day weekend!
