Tuesday, May 25, 2021

Disappointment Cleaver route is now "IN"

While the Ingraham Direct route may still 'go', it is no longer being climbed/maintained by the guide services, and they've switched their operations to the Disappointment Cleaver route.  

Climbers will find the route wanded and kicked in, with several route adjuncts in place.  Specifically, there is a hand-line at the "Nose" of the Cleaver.  Please recognize this is put in place by the guide services for the safety of their clients, and give them some space should they be actively using it.  The hand-line is typically used by clipping a carabiner on a tether to the line, instead of using a prussik.  There may be other fixed equipment (eg pickets with carabiners for running protection at both ends of a ladder/bridge) on the route - use them as appropriate, but please leave them in place.

Use care when stopping for a break, and make sure you're not exposed to rockfall/icefall/avalanche hazard from above. 

Please remember to not drag your ropes when you're traveling on rock/scree so as to minimize the likelihood of triggering rockfall onto parties below you (short-rope on the rocky sections), and pause to let them move out of the way if you're directly above them.

If you have questions, take a look at the route brief, or read through some DC reports from past years.  There are rangers available at the Wilderness Information Centers to help with the permit/fee process, and there will be rangers at high camps and on route help answer questions, check permits and doing maintenance at high camps.