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| Smoke layer across much of Washington. One of the few mornings the upper mountain was clear. |
As warmer than average summer temperatures continue to impact the upper mountain, situational awareness may be more important than you'd think. Although the peak season of climbers may be behind us, there is still plenty of activity going on up at Camp Muir and along the Disappointment Cleaver corridor. As of 8/16/2017 the DC route still remains largely the same, despite some subtle changes every few days.
Numerous ladder crossings, hand lines, hazardous rockfall and icefall zones, thinning snow bridges, and steep and firm glacial snow are what currently lay between Camp Muir and the summit. To some, these conditions may pose too high risk to justify a climb. For others, these conditions may seem manageable given a party's experience, rate of climb and technical ability. Wherever you may find yourself on that spectrum, rangers are asking that you truly assess and address the hazards that pose a threat throughout your climb. Again, situational awareness.
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| Ranger using a hand line across one of the more hollow sections of the route. |
Guide services have been working hard to keep the DC "going" through the constant re-routing. Something to bear in mind on your climb is the fact that sections of the route are melting out and falling out quickly. Simply because a ladder or a fixed line was secure and in-place upon your ascent in the middle of the night, doesn't guarantee it will still be in "acceptable" condition by late morning or mid afternoon on your descent. Pickets melt out, anchors weaken, ladders shift and rocks continue to fall when the weather is this hot. Parties should plan to "beat the heat" with early turn around times, and they should assess anchors, lines and ladders for themselves rather than assuming they are still secure.
Over the last few weeks, rangers have seen an increased number of climbers attempting the route without the proper equipment. Here's some things to ensure each member of your party has:
- Helmet
- Harness
- Crampons
- Ice Axe
- Sunglasses
- (1 or 2) Picket(s) or another form of snow anchor
- (1 or 2) Ice Screw(s)- it's that time of year
- Crevasse rescue equipment- pullies, prussiks, cord
- GPS- and knowledge to use it!
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| One of the many sections of the route exposed to fairly intense rockfall. |
All in all, there are many factors that must be taken into account when considering a late season summit attempt via the DC. It's up to individuals and their teams to accurately assess their own abilities, their level of preparedness, the weather, the conditions, and the unavoidable hazards that exist. By paying attention to your "situation" you'll be best able to mitigate risk, avoid certain hazards and minimize the danger of a late season summit climb.
