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| The Emmons Glacier on a moonlit night |
The difficulties of the Emmons/Winthrop route start a bit lower this year. The seasonal snow has gone from the majority of the Inter Glacier (approach to Camp Schurman) and this has exposed crevasses and steep, icy slopes. The E/W route itself remains climbable and parties have been having success with the clear and calm weather conditions.
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| A cinnamon colored black bear near Glacier Basin |
APPROACH TO GLACIER BASIN - The trail to Glacier Basin is in great shape. Expect day hikers and backpackers on the trail. An early start is recommended if you're heading all the way to Camp Schurman in a single push. If you're camping at Glacier Basin, be bear-aware, as there are black bears out and about near the camp.
GLACIER BASIN TO THE TOP OF INTER GLACIER: From here you head up for approximately one mile to the toe of the glacier. Once on the glacier, you encounter firm snow and icy conditions. Crampons are necessary on the inter glacier. Toward the top of the Inter Glacier large crevasses need to be negotiated and roping up here seems like the best move. The Emmons glacier from Camp Curtis to Camp Schurman is quite broken and roping up is recommended here as well.
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| Firm snow on the Inter Glacier |
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| Climbers negotiating crevasses on the Inter glacier |
CLIMBING ROUTE - Heading up from Camp Schurman, climbers will encounter many crevasses immediately when stepping onto the glacier. Expect icy conditions as most of the winter snow has melted off leaving glacial ice exposed. Dynamic moves might be required to cross some of the cracks up high on the corridor.
From the top of the Corridor the route ascends to the climbers left and then makes a series of traverses to end-run several large crevasses. The route parallels many steep slopes and large crevasses from 11,500' to 12,700' and many teams are employing running belays or belaying short sections.
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| Sunrise at 12,300' |
Above 12,700' the route is physically demanding as you must straddle a line of penitentes (snow pinnacles) requiring big steps and little room for poor footwork. At ~13,400' there is a steep crevasse crossing that requires swinging your ice tool and pulling yourself up onto an ice plug. This is followed by ten feet of traversing using your ice tool in the same fashion. Most teams are belaying each other up and down this section.
After that crossing more penitentes, and big step straddling, lead you to the bergschrund. The route traverses climbers right, underneath a giant ice wall that forms the bergschrund. Once the wall tapers down the route climbs up and over the 'schrund and the rocks of the crater rim are in view.
All in All the route is still very climbable, with any luck the conditions will hold up until late in the season.
Be careful, be bear courteous, and climb safe!
