Overview
With the summer solstice fast approaching, climbers have been experiencing long days and ample sunshine as many ascend the Disappointment Cleaver Route. We’re in a transitional period between spring and summer weather and snow conditions with changes occurring at every elevation on the mountain, from the lower slopes of Paradise to the summit.
A low-pressure system will move into the region over the next few days, bringing the potential for significant wind, precipitation, dropping temperatures, poor visibility, and obscured hazards. Always be prepared for wintery conditions, even on a daytrip up the Muir snowfield. The main hazards associated with this time of year include:
Rapidly changing and unpredictable weather, including whiteout and wintery conditions
Overhead hazard from rock and serac fall
Thin snow bridges over crevasses
Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route
Some notes about the approach to Camp Muir:
On the way up from Paradise, please stick to the Summer Trail if it’s melted out and snow if there is no obvious dirt/rock trail. There are occasional markers on the lower snow "trails" beneath Panorama Point to indicate the Summer Trail. Please avoid trampling the fragile alpine wildflowers and other vegetation.
There is water flowing from Pebble Creek above Panorama Point and we recommend filtering it if you plan to drink it.
Be ready to navigate the Muir Snowfield in whiteout conditions.
Above Camp Muir:
The National Park Service does not maintain the route; however, local guiding services do significant route-work and keep it well-marked with reflective wands. There is rock and serac fall debris scattered throughout the beginning of the climb above Camp Muir, most notably throughout the Ingraham Flats (see earlier posts about 5/19 Serac Fall) and the "Bowling Alley". Attempting to pass rope teams in these zones will not likely save time and instead it can cause tangled ropes amongst the massive ice blocks in the Flats. There are several crevasses to navigate leading up to the DC so plan rope lengths and teams accordingly. This is one of the many places to move swiftly on the route to mitigate the risks of overhead hazard.
Looking back on the Ingraham Glacier from the base of the Disappointment Cleaver. The “Bowling Alley” and debris from the 5/19 Serac Fall can be seen.
The DC itself is fully melted out and it primarily involves rock travel. Remember to use careful footing and don’t let your rope drag on the ground through this section; avoid sweeping rocks down on parties beneath you. The uphill party is responsible for mitigating this avoidable rockfall hazard. If you’re concerned about kicking rocks down on other parties, simply stop moving and wait for the area below you to be clear of people before you continue. Communicate and be patient.
There are currently no ladders on the route. There is a fixed-line (to be used for balance only, do not fully weight it) and several snow pickets that are maintained by the guides–use your discretion with this gear and please don’t remove any carabiners or equipment. There are complex crevasses and snow bridges to navigate above the cleaver, especially on the steeper transitions in slope angle. With warming afternoon temperatures, be observant on the descent for any snow-bridge sagging or significant changes in route conditions. Skiing on the upper DC route would be quite bad due to surface conditions (penitentes), and a fall would be consequential because of the major crevasse crossings and exposure.
In such a dynamic environment, give yourself a large margin for error with the incoming weather system. Track conditions and stay flexible if you’re planning to climb the mountain to celebrate the longest day of the year. Thanks for reading and remember to thank the guides for all of the hard work they do on the route!
Several independent and guided parties moving across the upper mountain, seen from the top of the Disappointment Cleaver.
Additional Information
Remember to Leave No Trace on the mountain (and in the Camp Muir Public Shelter).
A climbing permit and Payment of the Climbing Cost and Recovery Fee are required to climb Mount Rainier. More information can be found on Mount Rainier National Parks Website. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open for the season with hours of operation between 7:30am - 5pm.
