Saturday, June 24, 2023

Emmons-Winthrop 6/17

 

Climbing rangers climbed the Emmons-Winthrop Route on 6/17. There were a couple of variations to the trail that climbing parties were taking. The rangers took the path that seemed the most traveled. This proved to be longer than the earlier variations this season, though it made for easier travel and looked like it offered the most solid bridges. They end ran cracks at about 12,300 and 13,600. The direct line to the summit from around 13,400 appeared to still go. It would be a bit steeper and more hollow, so parties should be carefully assessing every bridge. Be willing to back track if the route does not appear to be solid enough. Remember that it is a very dynamic environment on the upper mountain, and things can change rapidly within the period of your climb. 

The route the Rangers took on 6/17
 

Climbers descending the Corridor on the Emmons-Winthrop Route

By Sunday evening, winter had fully returned to the upper mountain, with 5 inches of snow at Camp Schurman. There appeared to be a few inches on the upper mountain. On one stormy night, a party camping on the rocks at Camp Schurman had their tent poles broken due to driving wind and snow. Be sure to bring a solid winter tent when the weather is not in stable, high pressure conditions. Additionally, consider having a good repair kit. It is worth noting that parties camped on the snow, and sheltered from the wind by said rock ridge, did not seem to have issues. As the snow recedes more at Schurman and the glaciers around camp become more broken, we do start allowing folks to camp on the rocks. Please be sure that you are at least 100 feet from the helipad. Make sure to consider the winds you may encounter and how much more exposed you will be on a ridge.

The traverse to the saddle between Liberty Cap and Columbia Crest

A traverse on the route around 12,300 ft.

A snow bridge covered from a dusting of fresh snow from Friday 6/16