The Disappointment Cleaver is still in good shape, however, warm temperatures are impacting snow stability. Slushy snow isn't as strong as "coral reef" snow!
|Descent Track From 7/31|
|Traverse onto the Disappointment Cleaver|
The Cleaver is still quite snow-covered for the beginning of August, however snow is melting daily and quickly exposing underlying rock. Late morning and afternoon temperatures have led to unsupportive, often shallow snow. This can make the descent more challenging and easier to snag crampons on unseen rocks.
|Cracks opening up above the cleaver|
|Wands crossing off old route around 13,100 feet|
There are a number of route changes in the past week that avoid suspect snow bridges. Many of these are marked with wands to deter climbers from getting sucked into older variations. While these route aids are nice when they are present, climbers are encouraged to analyze their decisions when picking the best route. Don’t blindly follow the path most traveled. Consider options to end-run hollow bridges, take a different path, or if it’s not feeling right head back to camp. The mountain will always be here!
|Ladder around 13,100 feet|