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| Little Tahoma from the top of the Disappointment Cleaver |
The Disappointment Cleaver route remains in good condition and saw a lot of successful summits from guide services and independent parties this weekend. The route track has not changed significantly since last week's update.
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| Disappointment Cleaver route from the top of the cleaver |
High freezing levels and calm winds this weekend have led to melting and poor overnight surface condition recoveries. Cathedral Gap and the Disappointment Cleaver are about 50/50 rock and snow at this time. Transitions between rock and snow increase likelihood of catching a crampon. Keep a short rope through rocky sections to protect your rope and minimize chances of knocking rocks on parties below.
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| Looking towards Camp Muir from the top of the cleaver |
Warm temperatures lead to slushy snow, which is unsupportable and not conducive to self-arresting. Constantly evaluate while climbing and consider fall potential before it happens. Climb early and be rewarded with better conditions. Cooler temperatures returning this week may improve conditions.
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| Second ladder at 13,100' with handline to the right |
There is one ladder on the route at this time, which is a single horizontal ladder with lumber across them. The ladder has a handline spanning them as well. Handline ropes are intended to be handlines ONLY, clipping or prusiking onto them them will do little or nothing to catch a fall. Evaluate the anchoring of the ladders, pre-placed running protection, and handlines before use. Picket placements that were secure on the ascent may be melted out by the descent.
To increase security at ladder crossings, consider utilizing running protection and keeping a tight rope between party members. Slack in the rope system leads to longer crevasse falls.
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| Congestion on the route at Ingraham Flats |
Many of the other routes on the mountain are out-of-condition for the season and climbers are funneling to the Muir corridor. Expect bottlenecks, congestion, and a busy camp. Be patient at technical portions of the route and take strategic breaks. Time your climb around guide services and other independent parties.
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| Little Tahoma at sunrise |
The Disappointment Cleaver route remains in good climbing condition. It has more snow than your typical August ascent and has a fairly direct shot to the summit. Enjoy cooler temperatures returning this week and have a great climb!
