Wednesday, July 20, 2022

Disappointment Cleaver 7/19/22

Overall the Disappointment Cleaver route is in good condition. High freezing levels will continue to cause frequent route adjustments such as widening cracks and less supportive bridges.

A route tack recorded on 7/19/22.

With warmer temperatures we witnessed increased rock and icefall. The cleaver is still fairly snow covered. However, as the snow continues to melt be aware of parties below you as you walk on exposed rock. Consider pausing until there are no parties below you and be aware of parties climbing above. 

As conditions soften, pickets may begin to melt out with the warm temperatures. we recommend inspecting the integrity of the placement before trusting any route adjunct - this goes for fixed lines, fixed pickets, ladders, and planks.

Handline on the Cleaver. 

If you find yourself considering jumping across a crack, consider looking for another way to cross. While jumping across a crack may work, it is also an easy way to catch a crampon. Many people are injured attempting to leap across cracks.

Both photos above: Crevasse at 12,800'.

As the weather warms, ladders placed over crevasses may begin to melt out, test the stability of the board before committing to crossing over. As a testament to the rapid pace of change on the upper mountain, this board, pictured below needed to be moved repeatedly on 7/20 

Crevasse crossing at 13,200'. 

Please double check your campsites, the public shelter and break points along your route for trash you or others have left behind and leave the area better than you found it, thanks for your help in keeping Mount Rainier clean.