Climbing Update 6/25

It's been all over the news and odds are you've heard; this weekend will be hot. Hot enough to break records all over the Pacific Northwest. For those hoping to escape the heat by gaining elevation, there are some important things to consider while planning your climb.

Record temperatures are in store for the Cascades.

Warm, sunny weekends are busy in the park. Budget extra time to get to Paradise or White River and reserve your permit in advance on Recreation.gov if possible. If you are hoping for a walk-up permit, be flexible with your itinerary and have a back-up plan in case the reservations at high camps are full. Having another objective or alternate climbing route lined up is a good idea on busy summer weekends.

An early start or late evening approach can help you and your team beat the heat. Avoiding the snowfields and glaciers during the heat of the day when the sun angle is most intense is a good idea. Also, carry plenty of water and be able to make more on the way up. Melting snow with a stove only takes a few minutes, and saves you from carrying pounds of extra water.

Apply sunscreen thoroughly and often. Mineral based sunscreens are a favorite of Mt. Rainier rangers. Keep an eye on your team members too, making sure they eat and drink enough electrolytes on the ascent. Lightweight, sun protective clothing and glacier glasses are must this weekend as well.

The upper mountain will be changing rapidly with the warming temperatures. Freezing levels at night are forecasted to remain above the summit between 17,000 and 18,000 feet! Without a diurnal freeze, climbers need to be heads up. Snow bridges over crevasses could be soft, weak, and unsupportable any hour of the day or night.

Historically, rock and icefall on the upper mountain is most active during the month of June. The extreme heat this weekend may exacerbate rock and icefall hazards. Be aware, alert, and vigilant on the upper mountain. Move quickly though icefall zones and underneath seracs.

Move quickly underneath seracs and minimize your exposure time

Be mindful of where you and your team takes rest breaks on the upper mountain. Many teams sit on top of snow bridges and rest, which is a bad idea. Whole climbing teams have fallen into crevasses when the snow bridge suddenly collapsed while they were taking a break. 

Time management will also be crucial this weekend. Be efficient and stick to your team's turn around time. Enjoy the mountain and climb safely!