Kautz Glacier Route Update 7/22/2020

The Kautz Glacier Route (and the nearby Fuhrer Finger Route) seems to have had about the same steady flow of independent climbers as a normal season - minus the few guided trips that make it over that way. There have been many successful climbs with climbers going up the Kautz and back down, or up and over to descend the DC. With the steady traffic, a couple of climbing rangers headed over to the Kautz to check on conditions.

View of the Kautz "Runway" where the two ice pitches lead to the top of the Wapowety Cleaver.

First off, a big thank you to the many climbers and skiers who have journeyed over here this summer; micro trash and human waste have been a huge issue in the past and we are happy that folks are taking Leave No Trace to heart. We hope this trend continues. Hikers and climbers: please leave the mountain nicer than how you found it simply by picking up any trash you find, even if it is not yours. Pack it in and pack more than it out.

While the Lower Nisqually approach is still looking relatively straightforward for this time of year, the rangers took the Comet Falls Trail through Van Trump to approach the route. There are a couple of snow patches on this approach below 5800 ft, but the snow becomes more consistent shortly above this elevation. So having some approach shoes (and shorts for the 14,000+ ft freezing level days) for this approach can be clutch. Where the rocky ridges have melted out some of the sub-alpine and alpine flowers have begun to blossom.

Joyful flowers on the approach through Van Trump.

There is water flowing by the alpine rock rings of the Upper Castle and by the top of the Turtle Snowfield near the 10,600 ft bivy sites. With the warm night temperatures we had, both water sources were still flowing strong in the morning. Remember, if you are building a new alpine rock ring site for this climb, you are working too hard and making an unnecessary impact. Please use the rock rings that are already established, there are more than enough for the number of permits issued in that zone.

From a distance the Kautz Glacier Route looked as though it had two long ice pitches. Turns out there is still sun cupped névé on the lower pitch which is criss-crossed with slim cracks (easy to step over). The upper, steeper pitch, is a mix of névé and alpine ice. The rock step to get from the top of the Turtle Snowfield to the ice pitches is about 10 feet high and a slightly tattered fixed rope is looking like it is still in usable condition.  Probably best to back this rope up with your own.

Traverse after the rock step to the two ice pitches on the Kautz Glacier Route.

Summer has finally arrived at Mount Rainier! The temperatures during the day have been hot and the night temperatures warm. The weather has been relatively stable with an occasional stronger than expected wind speed and low level marine pushes.  Planning appropriate departure and turn around times for your climb based on the temperatures is a must - don't be caught out on the upper mountain during the heat of the day!  And remember, if things aren't going right, if you are not feeling as strong as you thought, or the winds are more than they were predicted to be, don't be afraid to make the conservative call and descend. The mountain will be there for next time.

Climber out on a gendarme with Mount Adams in the background. 

We hope to see you up high and enjoying some of the more remote landscapes inside the park during what is historically the best weather week of the year!