The cleaver proper is largely navigable without maneuvering over snow by staying on the ridge crest. Without a shoveled walkway, ascending the steep snow on the side of the cleaver may be difficult when the snow is frozen and firm. A slip or fall in this area may lead to an unrecoverable slide.
Once atop the cleaver, climbers will see an leftward rising traverse to Camp Comfort. This traverse requires moving through steep snow which may warrant placing running protection, depending on parties comfort in this type of terrain. After a mandatory crevasse crossing at the top of this steep traverse, climbers will be met with a straightforward climb to the crater rim, with only one notable hollow crevasse crossing around 13,300'. Again, with these crossings, spend time examining different options for navigating these features, as the existing foot path may not be the safest option to cross.
With no helpful route adjuncts like ladders, fixed lines, fixed pickets or shoveled walkway, the DC route climbs like a non-standard, mountaineering route. Climbers should aim to be self sufficient, and comfortable maneuvering steep snow and knowledgeable in placing running protection to add security to the rope team while navigating crevasse crossings and steep traverses.
As always, when on the mountain, please use the provided blue bags when a restroom is not available. We appreciate you're cooperation and your understanding that it takes a community to keep the mountain clean and enjoyable for everyone.
Safe climbing, and we look forward to seeing you on your next visit!
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| The Disappointment Cleaver as viewed from Ingraham Flats. |
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| Looking towards Camp Comfort and the steep left hand gaining traverse. View from the top of the Cleaver |
