 |
| Sun rays over Little T |
Spring weather in July! Unusually cold wet weather has changed snow conditions. A week ago mixed
snow and rain coated the upper mountain changing conditions to slick ice. After several days of warm
weather and trail maintenance from guide services, travel conditions have improved. Climbing teams
are reaching the summit via a fairly direct route, relatively unchanged, and well wanded up high.
Across the Cowlitz Glacier, the trail traverses above several small crevasses before traveling at a
lower angle than last week onto the rocks at Cathedral Gap. This makes for faster transition times
and thus less risk for climbing teams in that hazardous rockfall zone below Cathedral Gap.
lower angle than last week onto the rocks at Cathedral Gap. This makes for faster transition times
and thus less risk for climbing teams in that hazardous rockfall zone below Cathedral Gap.
 |
| Photo of both routes onto Cathedral Gap, Red is the old line, Green is the new route being used |
On the back side of Cathedral Rocks is Ingraham Flats and a great place to take a break. Please
remember to use the blue bags and bring those bags to the collection barrels at Camp Muir. Don't
leave any human waste on the mountain.
remember to use the blue bags and bring those bags to the collection barrels at Camp Muir. Don't
leave any human waste on the mountain.
After leaving Ingraham Flats, the route gains elevation and traverses east onto the cleaver. Currently
there are no ladders in this zone. There is very little snow travel left moving up the cleaver. Climbers
can expect slow progress with loose rock and soft volcanic pumice, only broken up by the occasional
scramble across knee high boulders.
Above the Cleaver expect to cross several snow bridges with possible delays during busier nights at
these choke points. At 13000’ a horizontal crevasse and 'wall' blocks the route - an 8’ vertical ladder
was put in place and spans this obstacle. After summiting, use caution on the descent. Passing other
parties off of the boot pack can be extra risky because the firm conditions. Use your patience (a key
skill during this busy season) and pass parties in less consequential terrain.
 |
| Ladder across crevasse at 13000' |
Weather going into this weekend and next week is improving with a brief low pressure system passing
through Washington to the north of Rainier. A chance of lower level clouds and precipitation are
possible late Friday into Saturday, with high pressure prevailing over the extended forecast.
through Washington to the north of Rainier. A chance of lower level clouds and precipitation are
possible late Friday into Saturday, with high pressure prevailing over the extended forecast.
Check out the weather resources page for more information.
