Kautz Glacier Conditions

A climber on the upper Nisqually glacier. NPS photo.

 

Rangers climbed the Kautz glacier to the summit on May 5. Snow conditions on the approach ranged from firm in the early morning hours to very soft and slushy as the temperatures rose. The trail-breaking was more than a foot in the early afternoon on the Turtle Snowfield. The campsites at the Castle and the rock step are all still covered with snow. There was a small trickle of water at the Castle but none above that camp.

The rock step was exposed, requiring a 20 foot down climb to the snow below. The traverse to the ice chute on the Kautz glacier was free of ice debris but there was some old avalanche debris that was tricky to cross.

The ice pitches were 100% snow but good ice for screws was easily found on the climbers right side of the chute. The route was easily protected. The snow in the chute had a one inch crust with unconsolidated snow below. With several more days of good weather ahead the snow may consolidate to neve soon.

Above the chute the crusty snow continued to the summit, making trail-breaking difficult. The upper Kautz and Nisqually glaciers are relatively smooth with only a few large crevasses to end run.

We expect the route conditions to come into form nicely in the next few weeks.

More info on this route can be found in our Kautz glacier route description.

A climber nearing the top of the ice chute on the Kautz glacier.