Friday, May 10, 2019

Emmons-Winthrop 5/9/2019



Emmons-Winthrop Glacier as seen from the prow.
Rangers climbed the Emmons-Winthrop with good weather and varied snow conditions. The route can be climbed several different ways right now. Rangers made tracks from Camp Schurman to the summit on routes climbing up the Winthrop shoulder and the Corridor. Overall the routes are straightforward and crevasses are filled in making for relatively direct travel to the summit. The route options above 13,400’ that cross the bergschrund have not been explored yet for the season. The current tracks traverse out to Liberty saddle at this elevation before returning to the summit. 


Climber approaching 13,400' on the Winthrop Shoulder


Surface conditions along the traverse to Liberty Saddle

The uphill travel on the Winthrop Shoulder is favorable over the Emmons Corridor. The surface conditions on climbers far right side of the shoulder holds excellent cramponing with supported smooth scoured snow all the way to 13,400'. Most of the large crevasses on the Emmons taper down as they reach the shoulder so the crossings are smaller and there are less of them to navigate. Climbing up the face of the shoulder is steep but can be managed easily with good travel technique. A few small crevasse crossings and sagging snow bridges will be encountered between the face and Camp Schurman. An early start is recommended, once the sun has softened the snow on the surface it can make the face considerably more difficult to climb.


Surface conditions in the Alpine Meadow
The Emmons Corridor route is holding a large amount of wind blown snow in the alpine meadow zone. This section of the route between 11,000' to 12,600' has unsupportable soft snow with boot top penetration. Getting from the Corridor to the Alpine Meadow is not straightforward as it has been in the past. There are different options, but all of them with unique route finding. The traditional snow passage leading off the corridor to the meadow is a mix of large seracs, sloping blue ice, and drifts of deposited snow. Use caution when passing through this zone as surface conditions warm. The corridor from 11,000' down to Camp Schurman is generally smooth with minor crevasse hazard. 

Climber approaching the traverse to access the Alpine Meadow
Corridor surface conditions

With a high pressure system in place over the past week, the mountain has been beautiful, sunny and warm with freezing levels rising over 10,000'. The extended forecast is calling for more of the same. Go to the Mt Rainier Recreational Forecast to get the latest.

Climber on the Winthrop Shoulder just above the face


The early birds get the best view!  Have fun, be safe!