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| Looking down the icefall debris on the Disappointment Cleaver route. Note climbers for scale. |
The path of the Disappointment Cleaver route remains largely
unchanged over the past few weeks. The route still climbs up and
left from the cleaver to the top of Gibraltar Rock before continuing up to the crater rim.
This may change as guides work to re-route the path in coming days and weeks to reduce exposure to serac hazards and as the crevasse crossings along the route widen.
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| Looking across the Ingraham Glacier toward Camp Comfort. Note icefall debris and leaning seracs. |
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| Crossing the icefall debris. |
The biggest concern this week has been objective danger from
serac fall on the route coming from the upper Ingraham Glacier. There have been two very sizeable ice falls starting at around 13,000 feet, resulting in a debris
field that is a few hundred feet wide and roughly 1000 feet long. Many parties
are choosing to not subject themselves to this hazard by stopping their climb
atop the cleaver at 12,500 feet and deciding to come back another time. If you choose to climb
through this section, move quickly and DO NOT STOP until well away from any
overhead hazard.
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| Rockfall below Cathedral Gap. |
With warming temperatures, the large rockfall debris near
Cathedral Gap is becoming increasingly dangerous as the snow pedestals holding
boulders begin to melt out. Above freezing temperatures at night mean that
these behemoths may fall at any time of day. Move swiftly through this
area.
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| Ladder at High Crack. |
A pair of short ladders were installed on the route this
week, across widening crevasses. If you feel the ‘need’ to jump across a
crevasse, look for an alternate route. There is no reason to take flight during
glacier travel, contrary to what many books and social media posts may portray.
Ankles and knees rarely take the hard landing well and many injuries result
from being airborne - especially when wearing crampons.
Be sure to practice Leave No Trace while on the mountain.
Blue bags can be obtained at the ranger station when you get your permit; use
these any time you are not at a bathroom. The bags can be deposited in labeled
barrels at Camp Muir and in Paradise (not in the toilets). Do not leave your human waste along the
climbing route for others to see or clean up!
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| July crowds to the right and icefall debris to the left. |
It’s shaping up to be another busy July weekend on the
mountain. Plan ahead to obtain your climbing permit (even for single-push
attempts), be courteous to other climbers, and make good decisions for yourself
and your team.
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| Disappointment Cleaver Route Track Log taken on July 11. |
