Disappointment Cleaver Route Update -- July 20th

The new route variation (blue) on the Emmons Shoulder.

As the freezing level continues to stay near or above 14,500 feet, the glaciers on Mount Rainier continue to change as well.  Guides recently put in a new variation that directs climbers up towards the "Emmons Shoulder" from the top of the Disappointment Cleaver.  All of the wands and pickets placed on the older variation of the route have been pulled.  If you choose to climb the older route be prepared to navigate with a GPS, and protect the steeper headwall terrain and major crevasse crossings. 

The new option avoids the major ice fall zone that occurred on the Ingraham Glacier a couple of weeks ago, but doesn't eliminate all of the overhead hazard.  There is still potential for ice fall onthe new variation.  Keep an eye out for looming ice cliffs above and don't linger or take breaks below these hazards.

Rockfall near Cathedral Gap has also been active at all hours (including in the middle of the night) due to the warmer temperatures.  As climbers finish crossing the Cowlitz Glacier and gain the rocks at Cathedral Gap, the transition from glacier-travel mode to rock-travel mode stalls them directly beneath the hazard.  Prepare your team ahead of time for this roped transition; make necessary rope adjustments out of the rockfall hazard zone and pass through quickly.  It's also worth taking a break, getting a snack and a sip of water, before crossing the hazardous area so that everyone can move their fastest if needed.

Overall, the Disappointment Cleaver route seems to be in late-July conditions. It will continue to break apart and become more circuitous as the summer goes on.  The high pressure and sunny skies that settled in a little over a week ago remains in place and has made for great weather conditions on everyone's summit day.  And, lastly, it's still the busiest time on the mountain; consider climbing during the weekdays through the rest of July and early-August to avoid the crowds.