Kautz Glacier Update

Many parties have been on the Kautz Glacier recently and are reporting mid-season conditions. Once below Glacier Vista and across the lower Nisqually Glacier, groups are using both “The Fan” and the Wilson Gully to exit the Nisqually onto the Wapowety Cleaver. Both options are in typical condition. Running water can be found near the top of The Fan on climber’s left. The ridge has moats and small glide cracks opening between 7800-8500’; give these a wide berth and consider keeping the rope on to reduce fall potential.

Dry (or mostly dry) campsites are available along the ridge and at The Castle (approx. 9500'). Reliable running water can be found at the Upper Castle. Most of the campsites above The Turtle and near the rock step are snow-free, but are devoid of reliable running water. Only use existing campsites; do not enlarge or create new sites.

From the high bivy sites, the route is in mid-late season condition. The rock step has melted out a lot in the past few weeks and requires care; consider scouting it the evening before your climb to come up with a plan.  The icefall zone between the rock step and ice pitches has been actively shedding very large chunks.  The ice pitches themselves are a combination of penitentes, smooth ice, and firm snow.  Careful of sun-rotted snow above firm ice.  This usually exists at the cusp of the ice and snow interface.  It's best if running out of rope near the top of the ice pitch to create an anchor in solid ice and then continue a second pitch well onto the glacier snow above than to try and run it out to the edge of the snow and find poor anchor ice and snow.  

Once above the ice pitches, the glacier offers a variety of options. Be prepared to navigate this section without an existing bootpack or wands. The exit off the Wapowety Cleaver around 13,000’ is holding up nicely and allows reasonable passage to the upper Nisqually Glacier. The upper Nisqually itself has numerous crevasse crossings and end-runs making solid glacier navigation skills necessary. Use of a GPS to log your path is recommended, in case of white-out conditions. There are few landmarks to navigate with and it is easy to become lost in this complicated glacial terrain.

Big thanks to Dallas for providing an update from his climb of the Kautz on June 22, 2018.  We always appreciate getting updated route reports and photos!  

Remember to pack out all of your trash and human waste from your climb. If carrying over and descending to Camp Muir, it is possible to drop off blue bags there, but all trash must be carried down to Paradise.