A couple of the climbing rangers were able to climb the DC on the morning of 6/26. It was a beautiful day and the route was in great condition. The route remains straight forward, hanging left at the top of the cleaver, over to camp comfort above Gib Rock and switch backing up to the summit crater from there. We clocked 3.1 miles from Muir to the Crater Rim. There are still no ladders on the route, but you do cross a number of snow bridges and a large plug near 13,800. Remember to always assess these, especially on the way down when things have softened up. There are 20+ pickets on the route the guide companies leave for use as "running protection" on their climbs. You can use them, but please do not relocate them, assess them before using, and don't take them.
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| The lower half of the DC with the traverse melted out |
More and more rock is melting out on the DC; we traveled on it for about a third the length of the cleaver and then switch-backed up snow the rest of the way up the cleaver. Though traveling on the snow which lingers on the side of the cleaver makes for easy footing, staying near the spine of the cleaver reduces the chance of getting hit by rockfall.
We did experience some sugary snow conditions that made the footing on the steeper switchbacks tricky. There are pickets here that you can use for running belays to protect your descent. Remember to take care on the descents and to save energy for them. The summit is only halfway.
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| Sugary snow conditions on a steep switch-back around 12,700. We used the pickets as a running belay. |
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| The plug acting as a bridge around 13,800 |
