The Kautz Glacier route is in nice early-season condition. Continuous snow travel can be expected on the approach up the Wilson Gully all the way to The Castle and upper bivy sites. The short rock step from the upper bivy sites near Camp Hazard down to the Kautz Glacier is filled-in and can be protected or rappelled. Be sure to evaluate any fixed protection you encounter before using it and consider backing it up (and remove your gear when finished!). The traverse above the rock step is covered with large debris from a recent ice avalanche off the ice cliffs above -- a good reminder to move efficiently through this area.
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| Looking at the route from the rock step. |
The ice pitches are still mostly snow-covered. The lower 'ice pitch' has about 30-40 feet of relatively low-angle, textured mixed snow and ice penitentes. The climbing is secure here and ice protection is possible. The rest of the glacier is snow covered. Above the upper ice chute the navigating appears easy to the top of the Wapowety Cleaver. Alternatively, it is possible to climb straight up to Point Success.
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| The upper Kautz Glacier 'ice' chute. |
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| The view down the lower Kautz Glacier. The Kautz Cleaver and upper Success Couloir routes look to be in good shape as well. |
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| Looking up at the Fuhrer Finger. |
