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| 5/23/2018 |
That being said, here are some details on route conditions. On Tuesday, 5/22, a team of climbing rangers ascended Sunset Ridge and carried over the summit and down the Ingraham Direct route to Camp Muir. Rangers found excellent climbing conditions along the way (a detailed blog post on Sunset Ridge coming soon). Conditions on the upper Mowich Face included 4-6 inches of snow over hard ice. This allowed for efficient climbing and the option of placing running protection using both pickets and ice screws. As for skiing on the upper Mowich and Edmunds: this probably isn't the season to do so. In addition to the blue ice underlying the thin snow-cover, the bergschrund appears to run the full width of the lower Edmunds Headwall and most of the way across the lower Central Mowich Face.
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| A view of the Edmunds Headwall from the air - 5/21/2018. |
The main route from Camp Muir is still ascending the Ingraham Direct (ID) route, which is mostly unchanged from the last post, although things are starting to melt out more rapidly with the higher temperatures. The ID currently has a well-defined boot path and is marked by wands. Keep in mind that during this time of year the routes see rapid change. It is certainly possible that in the time of your climb snow bridges could collapse and leave you searching for an alternate route on your descent. This occurred on Tuesday as a large party of skiers attempting to ski the Fuhrer Finger route were turned around by a collapse of a bridge somewhere near the upper Nisqually Glacier. They were forced to climb back up and descend the ID instead. So, at this point, it appears the Fuhrer Finger route may be unskiable from the summit and difficult or impossible to navigate on foot as well. Your mileage may vary, but these were the reports that rangers received on Tuesday. First-hand beta from the Kautz Glacier is limited, but upon observation from lower on the mountain it appears that the lower ice pitch on the Kautz is exposed ice while the upper ice pitch is still snow covered.
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| Upper Nisqually Glacier - 5/23/2018. |
The Muir Snowfield, however, is looking very skiable. Rangers descending on foot on Wednesday, 5/23, were wishing they had skis as they were plunge stepping through smooth corn snow from Muir to about 8,000ft. This was at approximately 1:00 p.m. Below 8,000 there hasn't been a consistent overnight freeze so the snow is still a little gloppy. Most people are now using the approximate summer route to get to the snowfield. Panorama Point is quickly melting out. Remember, as the snow melts and exposes ground, it is important to stay on the trail or snow to avoid trampling over the sensitive alpine vegetation. Also, please remember to watch out for dangerous and thinning snow bridges and holes over creeks and moats throughout the park, especially at and above treeline. These can be very hazardous and have contributed to fatalities and close-calls in the past. Slow, controlled descents and having a clear visual of the slope help reduce the likelihood of these hazards.
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| Hazardous snow around Glacier Vista. |
The upper mountain has been seeing a significant amount of skier traffic recently. While this can be a very rewarding method of travel on Mt. Rainier, it does come with an increased risk. Lately, rangers have observed some disturbing tactics involving skiers, including parties unroping and separating while some members ski and some walk down with skis on their back, opening them up to an unroped crevasse fall that might not be witnessed by the rest of their party members. Keep these points in mind if you will be attempting to ski on the upper mountain: (1) You MUST be a strong skier in all conditions and you MUST NOT fall. (2) Who is going to carry the rope and how many ropes will you bring? Will each member of the party carry a rope on the descent, or just the rear skier? How long is your rope? Will it reach the bottom of a crevasse if your buddy falls in while skiing? (3) If one of your party members decides that skiing is above their ability level, it is a good idea that the whole team join them in putting the rope back on and walking down together. (4) You CAN walk back down, roped-up, if conditions are not favorable to skiing. That is the safer option.
Lastly, the Paradise Wilderness Information Center (formerly the Climbing Information Center) is now open daily for the summer. You must register for your climb in person - there is no more self-registration for the season. The PWIC is open from 7:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Enjoy the sunshine and be safe out there!
