The Emmons-Winthrop Glacier. July 23, 2017 |
The Emmons-Winthrop Glacier route continues to see significant traffic,
even after weeks of warm temperatures and snow melt. The route itself is
largely unchanged from past weeks, with minor re-routes around widening
crevasses. As mentioned in this blog, the Emmons and Disappointment Cleaver routes are currently merging near the bergschrund at 13,800'. Be sure to take the correct track on your descent, to avoid accidentally walking to the wrong high camp!
Ascending the Emmons Glacier above The Corridor. |
Emmons tracklog on July 23, 2017 |
With warm temperatures and poor overnight freezes, the
likelihood of crevasse falls is also increasing. Beware
that slushy conditions can result in slippery footing and reduce the strength of
snow anchors. Start your ascent early, climb efficiently, and try to be back at high camp as early as possible. Warm temperatures have also contributed to the loss of multiple tents into crevasses at Emmons Flats -- anchor tents with secure anchors at least one foot deep to reduce the risk of having it blow away into a crevasse.
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Finally, beware that the bootpack and glissade tracks on the Inter Glacier cross several crevasses. Some of these holes have thin snow bridges that aren't readily apparent on ascent or descent. Always evaluate glissade tracks and their runout
before starting your descent.
Glissade track over a thin snowbridge on the Inter Glacier. |
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