Sunday, July 23, 2017

Kautz Glacier Update

GPS track of the Kautz part of our climb
Its been another warm and busy weekend on Mt Rainier. Taking advantage of the nice weather two climbing rangers made another climb of the Kautz Glacier route over Friday and Saturday. Conditions were largely unchanged from the last post on 7/20.(Previous Kautz Report)  The access from Paradise across the Nisqually and up the Wilson gully is becoming tenuous and climbers are recommended to to access the route from the Comet Falls Trail head.  Running water is available just above the Castle at 9600ft and can also be found at Camp Hazard. Climbing on the Kautz glacier is still snow all the way, but ice is starting to show through. With warm weather predicted to continue its likely that the Kautz will become true ice climbing in the coming weeks. Travel on the upper Kautz is a bit of a wander to end run a few large crevasses before getting on top of the Wapowety cleaver at 13,200ft. Good travel to the summit from here after you pass a serac line just off the Wapowety.
View of the Kautz Glacier from Camp Hazard.

If you are planing on a carry over climb and descending the DC, keep an eye on the Latest posts for that routes conditions. Its is currently in flux with a few possible ways to go.

Enjoy the sunny weather and get out climbing.

Sam Luthy- 682
Steep snow on the upper Kautz. Good climbing but protect as needed.