|A photo of the Ingraham Glacier and Disappointment Cleaver from Ingraham Flats.|
We knew it was coming... It looks like the Ingraham Direct is no longer viable for a summit attempt. A few intrepid teams have continued to use the route up the glacier but the guides have decided that the crevasse fall hazard is too great to continue traveling there.
The Cleaver is in fine shape, however, with snow and rock patches on the lower 1/3rd and steep snow switchbacks on the upper 2/3rds.
Climbers attempting the Cleaver are encouraged to practice rope travel techniques for both the glaciated and non-glaciated terrain they will encounter on the climbing route before they attempt a summit bid. The long rope intervals suitable for glacier travel are not appropriate on the rocky and steep sections of the Cleaver.
More info can be found the the NPS Route Brief for the DC.