Thursday, July 03, 2025

The Camp Muir Public Shelter Closes on July 7th for Construction

 The Public Shelter at Camp Muir will close for maintenance and improvements from July 7-September 30, 2025. The shelter will still be available for emergency use only for safety purposes. All climbers and overnight users will need to bring tents and plan to camp.

The emergency radio that has been inside the public shelter will temporarily be moved to the restroom nearest the helipad. This base station radio is to be used for emergencies only to contact the park's dispatch.

Historic construction images

The historic Camp Muir Public Shelter was constructed in 1921 and is the only sleeping shelter available for climbers and visitors who are not part of a guided tour. It is a stacked mortared stone building with a flat roof and wooden details. The shelter is a contributing building to the Mount Rainier National Historic Landmark District and the Camp Muir Historic District, which is at 10,000 feet elevation on the slopes of Mount Rainier. Camp Muir is the primary base camp from which most summit attempts depart.

Historic photos of the Public Shelter, 1921
The buildings at Camp Muir are subjected to hurricane force winds year-round with driving ice, snow, and debris that breaks down exterior finishes and shortens the life span of building components. The public shelter has not received targeted maintenance in over a decade. Work to maintain the building includes repointing of stone masonry, repair of roof, electrical lighting and cook area ventilation, maintenance on historic doors, and repainting of interior sleeping bunks. Work will be completed by NPS staff in accordance with the Secretary of the Interior’s Guidelines for Treatment of Historic Properties.

Climbers resting in front of the Public Shelter, Circa 1930s

Disappointment Cleaver 7/3/2025

Parties continue to summit via the DC as summer finally feels like it's arrived for this holiday weekend!  Be prepared to route find and problem solve as the route up may differ from the route down due to changing conditions, which is typical for glacial mountaineering routes. Guide services have installed a horizontal ladder to cross a crevasse as 12,900', above the cleaver. There's still a handline along the nose of the cleaver as well.  As the route continues to change, more adjuncts like ladders, "fixed" pickets and handlines may be added and/or removed.  Use all of these adjuncts at your own risk.  Just because a climbing party or guide used that adjunct before does not mean that it continues to be safe to use as the anchors can melt out or the angle of the glacier can change.  Often times any route adjunct can be climbed around or bypassed, so look critically at the route as you ascend to find the safest course  

Climbers will note an alternative reroute to the route on the DC at around 12,900' that links back to the 'main' route around 13,800'.  This alternative ascends climber's right toward the Emmons Shoulder and avoids many crevasse crossings that the direct route crosses.  As the summer moves on remember that with ever changing conditions - numerous snow bridged crevasses exist throughout the route - use good decision making to navigate safely - and if the conditions or route doesn't seem safe for ALL of the folks in your party to ascend, definitely turn around.  

7/2/2025 - 12,900' bridged crevasse 

We have had multiple instances of crevasse falls from independent climbers over the last few weeks- 
rangers have been seeing a wide spectrum of preparation and knowledge on the mountain. As a reminder, knowing how to perform crevasse rescue effectively with the appropriate gear is paramount. - always have a plan for how to handle self-rescue in the event of an emergency. 

7/2/2025 - Current Route Alternatives


7/2/2025 - Penitentes near the top of the Cleaver
Keep an eye on freezing levels and the weather.  As the temperatures warm up: think earlier starts; as things cool down and get stormy, think a bit later start and be sure to not climb into situations where self-rescue or helicopter-rescue may not be possible.  Enjoy the holiday weekend and see you up high!