tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-218918312024-03-16T11:49:33.618-07:00Mount Rainier Climbing Information on Climbing in Mount Rainier National Park. Maintained by Park Service Climbing Rangers. Stefan Lofgrenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15963197028087491936noreply@blogger.comBlogger481125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-34622802304897105722023-09-08T18:05:00.006-07:002023-09-09T11:49:56.352-07:00Climber Self-Registration Begins September 11th<p>Where did the summer go? With the return of fall, operations and services at Mount Rainier will begin to decrease. Climbing and Wilderness Permits are still required through the fall and winter for traveling on Mount Rainier above 10,000 feet or on glaciers. Self-registration for climbers in Paradise begins Monday September 11th, 2023 as the Paradise Wilderness Information Center will close September 10th. There will be a self-registration box located outside the Old Ranger Station in Paradise. As winter approaches a large tunnel will be put in front of the door. Walk through this tunnel and find the self-registration box with instructions at the end of the walkway. This is open 24/7 for registration, even if no one is staffing it.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgr6iS8RxhDOVW2uPMvubcxZYHnp0_mgSknWyEvFtokmdMfBqi-KPW47o0VLKoxW8RL5IBkSq90w7o4gZtmHlOyiF6RxG1w0uc4m_rmRdNVSEOYM05RZBAJsim9lifP981FwP9AexMCb1fEMtqOISMa_2zQaL_Sm_9-afhrpiqn-f6eeBKJ7o/s833/Map%20of%20Paradise%20Ranger%20Station.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="833" height="461" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgr6iS8RxhDOVW2uPMvubcxZYHnp0_mgSknWyEvFtokmdMfBqi-KPW47o0VLKoxW8RL5IBkSq90w7o4gZtmHlOyiF6RxG1w0uc4m_rmRdNVSEOYM05RZBAJsim9lifP981FwP9AexMCb1fEMtqOISMa_2zQaL_Sm_9-afhrpiqn-f6eeBKJ7o/w640-h461/Map%20of%20Paradise%20Ranger%20Station.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Self Registration is at the Paradise Ranger Station near the center of the photo.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><div>Climbers can still register in-person (which we recommend) in Longmire and White River. Check the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/hours.htm">park's operating hours </a>and pay special attention to the date at which the operating hours change as we move into winter. The White River Wilderness Information Center will be staffed until October 9th, 2023. After that date, there will be a self-registration box on the outside of the Wilderness Information Center as well until the road closes for the season. The Longmire Wilderness Information Center will also close around then and move their operations to the Longmire Museum for the winter. </div><div><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: left;">There are two things required to climb in the off-season. The first is to pay the online <a href="https://www.pay.gov/public/form/start/79997374">Annual Climber Cost Recovery Fee</a>. The second is to use the self-registration stations at Paradise or White River to fill out your permit. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Filling out your self-registration permit completely will help any necessary search and rescue efforts - please take the time to get it right! The full list of instructions will be located at both self-registration stations. You will fill out a sheet (front and back) at the ranger station and leave it in the drop box, you don't carry the permit on you. Please remember when you get off the mountain to fill out the return slip at the station and put in the drop box as well to check out from the field. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">As summer turns to winter, our seasonal staff starts to migrate away from the mountain. High camps will only be staffed very occasionally, search and rescue operations will be delayed, and the park's exclusive use helicopter will be departing the park by late September. Please keep in mind that during the winters, there aren't rangers actively staffing the high camps to talk about conditions or weather. It is recommended that climbers are prepared to be very self-sufficient as any rescue efforts could take days! </div></td></tr></tbody></table>Kathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01753501928544312146noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-26270657002811318672023-09-02T12:08:00.000-07:002023-09-02T12:08:39.383-07:00Fall DC/Mountain Update 9/2/23<p>It's feeling and looking like Fall on the mountain.</p><p>The Muir snowfield has become the Muir icefield. Microspikes, or even better - crampons, are necessary for the travel. There is no longer a 'trail' to follow, and one should expect to use dry glacier navigation skills. With fall moving in, whiteout conditions will become more common. Have a GPS track running on the way up, to follow on the way down in case of weather.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjX7pwMc-LYJkaiNDfPEhSReoC3Iqr0DXRUfVSbRvTwKQSK7FiCfwDPolJQiJR7VPNsVqnITXxKnr_UQOx0snunfOGhLJA2GesFFnESdjFyOMmOjdyYYsN771kFPnOFRNirZcLxuJtuLvPmw9hxWMsEP-u4Td6zJFjAKcucX2XFfcgXmlsryUi/s4032/IMG-6287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjX7pwMc-LYJkaiNDfPEhSReoC3Iqr0DXRUfVSbRvTwKQSK7FiCfwDPolJQiJR7VPNsVqnITXxKnr_UQOx0snunfOGhLJA2GesFFnESdjFyOMmOjdyYYsN771kFPnOFRNirZcLxuJtuLvPmw9hxWMsEP-u4Td6zJFjAKcucX2XFfcgXmlsryUi/w640-h480/IMG-6287.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crevasses on the Upper Portion of the Snowfield</td></tr></tbody></table></p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV7a61dieLrjFwc0nEOc7YOI7_O3ThkNFGQV9fwdoxENDPy64hvj2Afc41P78LH53MK5LJR34f5C2sKzKfetkGj-OGChjTqf2g0IWuW3z8PiIj7hoSsmZvZR1Oh8_RMJbFjpkRol5rdckUalYSOZM4PugUfSMONpxTEi68KxUQoD9u5OrCq1RS/s4032/IMG-6296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV7a61dieLrjFwc0nEOc7YOI7_O3ThkNFGQV9fwdoxENDPy64hvj2Afc41P78LH53MK5LJR34f5C2sKzKfetkGj-OGChjTqf2g0IWuW3z8PiIj7hoSsmZvZR1Oh8_RMJbFjpkRol5rdckUalYSOZM4PugUfSMONpxTEi68KxUQoD9u5OrCq1RS/w640-h480/IMG-6296.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More Broken Terrain on the Upper Portion of the Snowfield</td></tr></tbody></table></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgB-3JLvelgJAPCFuIQrJiuC_E-ijzsqD6s_81ObaJ9CCa9OXwyhhY50m1E9xoruaJ--McFEUAXLgkSVqyNg3pV2eC6WAacYaRTj75ubwMCn28vQMOMuVk4qKqGUCAAFsNJseiAE4LLYHvEB6-ABrwYvSd8v96nF_Z2m27ZXntGt6uvPrUHQYV/s4032/IMG-6288.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgB-3JLvelgJAPCFuIQrJiuC_E-ijzsqD6s_81ObaJ9CCa9OXwyhhY50m1E9xoruaJ--McFEUAXLgkSVqyNg3pV2eC6WAacYaRTj75ubwMCn28vQMOMuVk4qKqGUCAAFsNJseiAE4LLYHvEB6-ABrwYvSd8v96nF_Z2m27ZXntGt6uvPrUHQYV/w640-h480/IMG-6288.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div>Guide services have been working all season to manage risk on the upper mountain through maintaining an accessible route, one that all climbers benefit from. Last Sunday 08/27, guide services pulled adjuncts off the route due to hazardous and hard to maintain conditions. High crack can be navigated with intermediate climbing skills. The ice fin onto the DC has become more unsupported and the ice box is subject to more frequent serac and rockfall. These factors make access to the Cleaver challenging and hazardous. Risk management and proper decision making is required, even though the physical movement through here is relatively straightforward. While the summit could previously be reached with more technical climbing and glacier navigation skill, with the absence of a ladder over the 12.8 crack, there is no longer a known route to the top.</div><br />Rangers have not had eyes on other routes, but it's safe to assume the rest of the mountain is looking the same. Steven Mosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12796021546859262629noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-70666079517148409802023-08-23T13:26:00.002-07:002023-08-23T15:52:00.581-07:00DC Update 8/22/23<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK-GxQoBF_oXNyfCe7FbikAhkMPhYz_TtDe_UGX_jBkqttmXUpanae798CjEIjey5fVHCJdflc-4sty_M7UmZ33YUPMfu8Mj_BOFEpv-K9VIXSouFNLl5kUbtNc-w7yv--al_ehxLkRrb_9mDUsIDkeLnDEcpn4Wq9C8kZKNkYShObPL8u-RTX/s4032/gib%20cowl.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="415" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK-GxQoBF_oXNyfCe7FbikAhkMPhYz_TtDe_UGX_jBkqttmXUpanae798CjEIjey5fVHCJdflc-4sty_M7UmZ33YUPMfu8Mj_BOFEpv-K9VIXSouFNLl5kUbtNc-w7yv--al_ehxLkRrb_9mDUsIDkeLnDEcpn4Wq9C8kZKNkYShObPL8u-RTX/w553-h415/gib%20cowl.jpg" width="553" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Looking across the Cowlitz Glacier from Camp Muir with some smoke haze in the air. (8/22/23)</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div>August is quickly coming to a close, and we are back to discuss the condition of the DC <i>after </i>the heatwave in the past week or so. The aftermath, if you will. If you haven't gotten the chance to check out what was happening to the mountain during this prolonged period of elevated temperatures, check out:<div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li> This<a href="http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2023/08/upper-mountain-conditions-8162023.html"> blog post</a> with pictures about what was happening mid-heat wave 8/16</li><li>A <a href="http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2023/08/video-of-some-upper-mountain-conditions.html">video from the helicopter</a> with upper mountain views on 8/18</li></ul><div><u><br /><i>Route Overview:</i></u></div><div>With 17,000'+ freezing levels, the small and thinning snow and ice features that the route utilized to reach the summit in our <a href="http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2023/08/dc-route-update-8823.html">8/8/23 DC update</a> have suffered significantly. Portions of the route have collapsed, and other cruxes have become so difficult to surmount that some guide services have officially ended their seasons taking clients to the summit. As we anticipated, the high temperatures then subsequent cool off have led to firm, icy surfaces on many parts of the mountain, resulting in slide-for-life conditions where arresting a fall would be difficult.</div><div><br /></div><div>It is important to understand that while one can still climb the Disappointment Cleaver route in it's current condition -- at the time of this post -- to the top of the mountain, that there is no longer a maintained "route" that many climbers have come to expect. In most places, there is no bootpack, no wands, nor any ladders to lead to you to the summit. Ladders and route adjuncts above the cleaver were all going to be pulled by today 8/22/23. Old routes may be apparent but are NOT maintained. Be prepared for steep and exposed conditions that demand advanced glacier navigation, discretion of hanging or unsupported features, evaluating bridges and plugs, and potentially more involved glacial travel techniques such as rappelling into and needing to ice-climb out of crevasses to cross them.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you do believe you and your teammates possess these skills, plan on navigation taking a significantly more time than any other ascents of the Disappointment Cleaver. Plan on at least a handful of attempts to bypass obstacles that will end in needing to turn around to try a different option. All recreational climbers that rangers interacted with at Camp Muir did not go past Ingraham Flats this past week. To put it simply, the objective hazards on the route are currently just much higher than other times of year.</div><div><br /></div><div><i><u>Wildfire Smoke Complications</u>:</i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqv3b-sp1S4w4_ENblbR2IRCyXwqYAlhqO90e98qyldqRPBdmfykbqbe6K1onJ7b7XMluOx_7_WbFdLE7hWjTWtR9n1TNd9rVDnyUMuHMLzIw6EZgn4WvaXKQrMs5n923YxzeIXsFmlfUWuiyGLRF-MZNj6MTwIoyWLtGtATX7wZBG_bb8OITt/s4032/muir%20smoke.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="399" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqv3b-sp1S4w4_ENblbR2IRCyXwqYAlhqO90e98qyldqRPBdmfykbqbe6K1onJ7b7XMluOx_7_WbFdLE7hWjTWtR9n1TNd9rVDnyUMuHMLzIw6EZgn4WvaXKQrMs5n923YxzeIXsFmlfUWuiyGLRF-MZNj6MTwIoyWLtGtATX7wZBG_bb8OITt/w532-h399/muir%20smoke.jpg" width="532" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Looking down towards Paradise from Camp Muir in unhealthy smoke conditions. Normally, you would be able to see the whole Tatoosh Range, as well as Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Hood. (8/21/23)</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div>In addition to the difficulty and character of the route changing since the heatwave, there are a number of fires that are plaguing the Northwest air quality at the moment. If you live in-state this won't be any surprise, however if you're coming from out of town, know that the AQI (Air Quality Index) has been in the unhealthy range many days in the past week. While the fires still carry on, wind direction / atmospheric flow plays a huge role in if the smoke reaches Mt. Rainier. For the most up to date information, check out these air quality / wildfire resources:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://fire.airnow.gov/">AirNow Fire and Smoke Map</a> is a government resource where you can input any location in the U.S. and see a map of current air quality readings at monitoring sites as well as active fires. If you click on a location, some even have smoke forecasts, letting you know if experts in atmospheric flow believe the smoke will improve or worsen in your location of interest. How cool! The closest one to Camp Muir is at the Jackson Visitor Center at Paradise.<br /><br /></li><li><a href="https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/photosmultimedia/webcams.htm">Mt Rainier Webcams</a> is a site with links to webcams all over the park, including at Camp Muir and Paradise. Curious if high camp is above the smoke, or if Paradise is socked in? This is a great place to check. <br /><br /></li><li><a href="https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/">InciWeb</a> is a great resource to see the most up-to-date details on wildfires in the U.S. Similar to the AirNow platform, there is an interactive map of incidents. If you click on an incident, you can find out what percentage the fire is contained, size in acreage, types and amount of resources dedicated to the incident, along with fire behavior and a lot of other information. This can be a helpful map to look at if you're trying to brainstorm a plan B for Rainier, and find out how the fires that are causing the smoke are developing. </li></ul></div><div><br /></div><div><i><u>Feature to Feature Updates</u>:</i></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b style="font-style: italic;">The Cowlitz: </b>Similar to our last complete <a href="http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2023/08/dc-route-update-8823.html">route update</a>, this section of the route continues to be threatened by overhead rockfall from Gibraltar and Cathedral Rocks, ever-thinning snow bridges, and widening crevasses. There are some cracks opening up less than 8 feet away from where you leave the dirt at Camp Muir, so be sure to rope up before leaving camp. And -- evaluate your campsite selection wisely if choosing to camp on the snow! Some commonly used sites are now sitting a top thin snow bridges on the Wind Roll. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS9-gSMO6iGliE13CDwZQthOoYs59RxsDtY53ay0j2tQfECI71EuGmpPBd4ROD-mknO9cJk2_WfnxtaAhVRcJhTm95YPLFg9LTJcqU2j8KCW81Apc-G7p2pLccZYHF99_M_HZLu576W0mxjjh3BPENMx1ql_hxNSnWZFBDzn-3qMsNP7P9rS6v/s4032/cowlitz%20late%20season%20zoomed.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="403" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS9-gSMO6iGliE13CDwZQthOoYs59RxsDtY53ay0j2tQfECI71EuGmpPBd4ROD-mknO9cJk2_WfnxtaAhVRcJhTm95YPLFg9LTJcqU2j8KCW81Apc-G7p2pLccZYHF99_M_HZLu576W0mxjjh3BPENMx1ql_hxNSnWZFBDzn-3qMsNP7P9rS6v/w537-h403/cowlitz%20late%20season%20zoomed.jpg" width="537" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Note the cracks opening up on the Cowlitz Glacier. (8/20/23)</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></li><li><i style="font-weight: bold;">High Crack (11,300'): </i>High crack -- the first notable feature when climbing up past Ingraham Flats -- still has a ladder to grant passage across it at this time. <b>A popular alternative for many climbing parties who are not prepared for the high hazard route finding higher on the mountain is to opt to climb from Camp Muir, across the Cowlitz, up through Ingraham Flats, to High Crack and turn around.</b> Some want the ladder crossing practice, but will spin just on the other side, to avoid entering the higher hazard portions of the Ice Box and Bowling Alley. This is an excellent alternative if you want to climb, get some glacial navigation and ladder crossing skills practiced, but do not want to undertake the more complex and severe hazards higher on the route.<br /><br /></li><li><i style="font-weight: bold;">Getting onto the Cleaver: </i>The unprotectable traverse to gain the Disappointment Cleaver from the glacier as of 8/8 relied on "a narrow section of ice, that then gains the cleaver on some quickly melting, and thin, small snow and ice features". These features have since collapsed. While there is a way to navigate on top of the smashed remains of this traverse to gain the cleaver, these new features remain vulnerable to further collapse. There is running water beneath the remains of these features, and it would be a high likelihood, high consequence event for this traverse to further collapse. Be sure to understand the risks you are taking before you embark across this section, knowing it must also support you returning to camp later in the day.<br /><br /></li><li><i style="font-weight: bold;">Above the Cleaver: </i><b>There is no established route that will get you to the summit of Mt. Rainier from the top of the Disappointment Cleaver</b>. As described earlier in this post, know that advanced glacial travel techniques and a significant amount of experience are needed to continue further up the mountain from this point. Route adjuncts have been removed beyond this point as of 8/22/23.</li></ul><div><br /></div></div><div><u style="font-style: italic;">Looking Forward</u>:</div><div>While there is still traffic heading up and down the mountain in various forms, the climbing season is certainly winding down. A light dusting of snow coated Camp Muir on the morning of 8/23 -- telling us of the changing of seasons that is ahead. If you're planning on a hike up to Camp Muir, remember to check the latest blog on the changing conditions on the Muir Snowfield. That's what we have for now, folks! See you up there.<br /></div></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD-u0Wh0nJweIrA65dDkw6Tco7JOjktCkem7Otnz8CP3Ho1BTmtCQhEM-EdV1jCfkikwNQuPjahIUeUq4Jjt4JHpV6Tq-3pE12Q4GQ3v4M1jpymrvY3K4oZLj1wZ0K8l3ZkHio7Ps5f60k_1H0jtoXwa5ZobnxQXCQE-Wteu21uPNrsNwP71-m/s4032/muir%20snow.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD-u0Wh0nJweIrA65dDkw6Tco7JOjktCkem7Otnz8CP3Ho1BTmtCQhEM-EdV1jCfkikwNQuPjahIUeUq4Jjt4JHpV6Tq-3pE12Q4GQ3v4M1jpymrvY3K4oZLj1wZ0K8l3ZkHio7Ps5f60k_1H0jtoXwa5ZobnxQXCQE-Wteu21uPNrsNwP71-m/w595-h446/muir%20snow.jpg" width="595" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The sun makes it's debut from behind Muir Rocks on the morning of 8/23/23 after a light dusting of snow fell atop Camp Muir.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div>Brooke Maushundhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00372307316775998873noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-91995091258539557822023-08-18T16:34:00.004-07:002023-08-18T16:41:19.179-07:00Video of Some Upper Mountain Conditions<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='400' height='322' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxHEZBmQ1pKLRib3TyRN3t7EFfNVEAieNkcuFoq9V2SfqhASHy8bRw5s-S-NNx1qZXQDrFx6E-JtSQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>Climbing Rangerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02856722918069818636noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-58395958076129615012023-08-16T12:02:00.010-07:002023-08-17T16:10:20.137-07:00Upper Mountain Conditions 8/16/2023<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The 17,000+ foot freezing levels we've had over the last few days have had quite the impact on Mount Rainier and its glaciers. Things have been changing drastically from one day to the next (or hour by hour) with how fast things are melting. This puts climbers at a higher level of risk than normal and requires a lot of prior experience on glaciers and climbing to have the skillset for managing the risks and route navigation decisions. Again, these HOT temperatures are making conditions DIFFICULT for climbers.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The traverse across the Cowlitz Glacier has been changing day by day as guide groups have made edits to the route as crevasses rapidly open up in the bootpack and rockfall threats above change fall lines. A number of people have punched into some crevasses, surprised to fine the "track" went over an overhanging snow bridge that was not obvious before. No climber "plans" on falling in a crevasse, so please come prepared on these HOT days to do actual crevasse rescue. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The double ladder at high crack at the moment is still in place and folks can still traverse onto the Cleaver, but the plug that connects to the cleaver had water running underneath it and has a big overhang, so if it were to collapse in these HOT temperatures it would not be good. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj4Xixar-0kAflnyfMQLmhTOpJHgjrVCGkz7fzE7hfx0nhqFrJyjwpqYJTn1ZrAO0jZiYgdMlqJnHzCJTW6LPmqCWrhVV2zjzGZpTbYc0_lHmJ4Aoxwb7oltInqDN1Zzw7u-YjPhfB3EoAz5Mx7aqJiKwlWJGPNXP60zvm37R064W9zgldydOnuRg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1616" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj4Xixar-0kAflnyfMQLmhTOpJHgjrVCGkz7fzE7hfx0nhqFrJyjwpqYJTn1ZrAO0jZiYgdMlqJnHzCJTW6LPmqCWrhVV2zjzGZpTbYc0_lHmJ4Aoxwb7oltInqDN1Zzw7u-YjPhfB3EoAz5Mx7aqJiKwlWJGPNXP60zvm37R064W9zgldydOnuRg=w640-h428" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking at the traverse onto the DC on 8/14/2023</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Above the cleaver, the snow is isothermic, or "punchy" and not very supportable. There have been reports of folks falling into crevasses unexpectedly here too. The double ladder at 12,800' was still in place as of August 16th, but from here, folks can plan on finding their own route. On August 15th, the guides pulled the triple ladder spanning the 12,900' crack because it was sitting on overhangs that weren't reliable. No parties have summited the DC Route for the last couple of days due to crevasses not being safe to cross. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="color: black; text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhtuk8GeFZSV93CKKenh0aTTKpNSU7Uu68fa__uRxZ-ZMXKwHF6PELU1lTkwEXzTg8oTnMuVCwIK-sD_uhDXPMezlSAN_bTQKJQ_mNEN-A3Zs4fSdVX75c5fp0jCXJFDnuZqVB2iEe3QIvvh73H7khE1THnPw5tLVUZF-6Hi1AdWqvwICnhFLmzXQ" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhtuk8GeFZSV93CKKenh0aTTKpNSU7Uu68fa__uRxZ-ZMXKwHF6PELU1lTkwEXzTg8oTnMuVCwIK-sD_uhDXPMezlSAN_bTQKJQ_mNEN-A3Zs4fSdVX75c5fp0jCXJFDnuZqVB2iEe3QIvvh73H7khE1THnPw5tLVUZF-6Hi1AdWqvwICnhFLmzXQ=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper Thousand plus feet of the DC Route. 8/14/2023</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="color: black; text-align: left;">Parties that want to find their way to the summit via the DC Route will have to do some extreme end-running of crevasses or rappel into and ascend out of crevasses. And, at the moment, you will need to find your own route, accept a relatively high level of risk for this route, and have extensive glacier and climbing experience. Recognize that crevasses may fail any time during the day, sometimes behind you, leaving your party to discover they can't descend via the route they came up.</span></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhh6Rrly7r4co1xGrGuNxFrjMgNNPV80xHfr7tPvBp_try_kEdmL89z5rKFwJ6t2cdFXcg4GmsGLYQHq3enxs25rWSG2r14DsMwYizkKF-cISdR-e8WdaS12kPtkk3XHsHbu5FGFl9wEYDKTFhg_9tCMcNJOK9UJmyuSPTJhX3YWhlJDmS28VdP3A" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhh6Rrly7r4co1xGrGuNxFrjMgNNPV80xHfr7tPvBp_try_kEdmL89z5rKFwJ6t2cdFXcg4GmsGLYQHq3enxs25rWSG2r14DsMwYizkKF-cISdR-e8WdaS12kPtkk3XHsHbu5FGFl9wEYDKTFhg_9tCMcNJOK9UJmyuSPTJhX3YWhlJDmS28VdP3A" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view of the upper couple thousand feet of the mountain. 8/14/2023</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Luckily there is an end to this heat in sight. Temperatures look like they may plummet to about 9000' freezing levels by Sunday. After these warm temperatures however, such cold conditions will likely present challenging conditions in a different way - all this glacial melt could solidify making for icy and unforgiving surfaces. Having sharp, steel crampons on full shank boots and sure footing with them will be essential to help you manage this upcoming drastic change in conditions.<div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj_j_HAk3UmpIHHe1livKBh6WfaJnMf1mMUTDvcJO1886gPHc2xdcFf-rcL6bQQz-ucAd02mB1LIZFWOye_do1ooSfOWiFM6egDtv4YUmZRqPKRVqoqs4au69R36cCAjLazHR2Rt_vsnZ5a9xXtFpZX3F2YKXcWTgTHpWwib1n_AggXmImLok_Uhg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1616" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj_j_HAk3UmpIHHe1livKBh6WfaJnMf1mMUTDvcJO1886gPHc2xdcFf-rcL6bQQz-ucAd02mB1LIZFWOye_do1ooSfOWiFM6egDtv4YUmZRqPKRVqoqs4au69R36cCAjLazHR2Rt_vsnZ5a9xXtFpZX3F2YKXcWTgTHpWwib1n_AggXmImLok_Uhg=w640-h428" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking at Camp Schurman and the Emmons-Winthrop on 8/14/23</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div>While this all sounds a bit dire, there's still some great vistas, cooler temps, and great opportunities to practice mountaineering skills around both high camps on the mountain. The stars and meteor showers have been all-time. Just don't plan on a typical "summit climb" adventure right now. See you on the mountain!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj0o8m2vUaueElImJ1rXdyP02al597PMnruazRcFIIrJSkwAD58BKBGYUHySMHdmsgzjE6-ulee4pk1-A-h1FlLviIjVRweF8pMVwk9WmWi6g1wG4tgEogJQfcGekfW1ODiLIro2lt_tbiwE0q4KfUos0mpKEjtkQ8vnATe40o8d9-YW53qZv1sCg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1616" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj0o8m2vUaueElImJ1rXdyP02al597PMnruazRcFIIrJSkwAD58BKBGYUHySMHdmsgzjE6-ulee4pk1-A-h1FlLviIjVRweF8pMVwk9WmWi6g1wG4tgEogJQfcGekfW1ODiLIro2lt_tbiwE0q4KfUos0mpKEjtkQ8vnATe40o8d9-YW53qZv1sCg=w640-h428" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking above the Cleaver. 8/14/23</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh5eobwPqpyDMFoNXtNy0PeTg-arqq9ReT-0OobplTqozG-nIXo4Itgo95i-GA7FMSzd4v8W0W6ClGz8M7grBcDw72Mn6i5lGsi858dJSZJkG-p-HO_fTmtTPbgIedQhtJMKd4zWg54m9-x0CZIJzf9tm1afbtd1yBW1Y7c9vnFj-JRYZ2sb_IV2w" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1616" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh5eobwPqpyDMFoNXtNy0PeTg-arqq9ReT-0OobplTqozG-nIXo4Itgo95i-GA7FMSzd4v8W0W6ClGz8M7grBcDw72Mn6i5lGsi858dJSZJkG-p-HO_fTmtTPbgIedQhtJMKd4zWg54m9-x0CZIJzf9tm1afbtd1yBW1Y7c9vnFj-JRYZ2sb_IV2w=w640-h428" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View near the Emmons shoulder and the 12,900 crack. 8/14/23</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /></div>Kathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01753501928544312146noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-39520201350702130102023-08-10T15:51:00.003-07:002023-08-15T20:58:15.870-07:00DC Route Update 8/8/23<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjBS-fTFjvqVAOshvf7ymfabr-8CrS77djKr34C0RZrfbCU6h7bRxQ2wwFYUZ2W48h6uacdfDK0srxHECGD-FSnzpdlGlcjgvhJohdq12THnTJvWJRNbAI5atC7sj70W96lxoxn2juSPUhq3oSApd4BSq8g05Uo7FI_GeduhfgXruYpngRjzuQu" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjBS-fTFjvqVAOshvf7ymfabr-8CrS77djKr34C0RZrfbCU6h7bRxQ2wwFYUZ2W48h6uacdfDK0srxHECGD-FSnzpdlGlcjgvhJohdq12THnTJvWJRNbAI5atC7sj70W96lxoxn2juSPUhq3oSApd4BSq8g05Uo7FI_GeduhfgXruYpngRjzuQu=w607-h456" width="607" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Looking up through the sea of penitentes towards the ice headwall from just above the cleaver. 8/8/23</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">It's August on Mt. Rainier and there's no two ways about it! With a number of successful summits, and an almost even number of parties spinning due to conditional challenges and inclement weather, the mountain is telling us it's starting to wind down for the season. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgUi6LzMXdPlktEWjqLNuJfr4NWHUeimDdGtfwgY5YBQjfFAI_gdpKOnsbW48pxsDm5ccbhlZHOc8zAYo8bpZToJJZVXmaUl6HpLhNrhnNtC3kZIKJUjOoFt5HKWlFA4IT-a61lf-Vz6B_TCPWpGHpsjr9kVeq7aEfVhhasIZWCypxt219lVl2L" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgUi6LzMXdPlktEWjqLNuJfr4NWHUeimDdGtfwgY5YBQjfFAI_gdpKOnsbW48pxsDm5ccbhlZHOc8zAYo8bpZToJJZVXmaUl6HpLhNrhnNtC3kZIKJUjOoFt5HKWlFA4IT-a61lf-Vz6B_TCPWpGHpsjr9kVeq7aEfVhhasIZWCypxt219lVl2L=w610-h458" width="610" /></a><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">View down towards the top of the Disappointment Cleaver itself. Note the faint trail through the penitente and light fresh dusting of snow. Precipitation has come on the upper mountain without being in some forecasts lately. 8/8/23</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i><u>Route Overview:</u></i><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">The route as it stands is long and circuitous — it is currently 3.4 miles with 4000' of elevation gain coming from Camp Muir just to the summit crater. That's about a 7 mile round trip adventure <i>at altitude</i> high camp to high camp. If you've climbed the DC earlier in the season, this will not be the same type of experience. Be prepared to go up to go down, and down to go up! Due to weaving between the many large crevasses, you'll find yourself losing and regaining elevation a number of times on the ascent and descent. While the route has a boot pack in place along with wands from guide services, these navigational aids are not enough to climb the route. With new precipitation and high winds as experienced this past weekend, the bootpack can become less obvious and covered with new snow, and wands blown down. There are also older junctions from different iterations of the route that can throw one off when navigating down in low visibility conditions if you do not have a track from your ascent to follow. Be sure to have some sort of personal GPS software downloaded on your phone (ex:<a href="http://caltopo.com" target="_blank">CalTopo</a>, <a href="http://gaiagps.com" target="_blank">Gaia</a>, <a href="http://fatmap.com" target="_blank">FatMap</a>, etc. all have free versions with this function) and start tracking as soon as you leave Camp Muir. This way if you find yourself in a whiteout on your descent, you will have a path to follow even with low visibility! See it as cheap insurance that could save your life, if not save you from an epic descent in miserable conditions.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiGT7J9jyddgXPJq1qrNUb-3TSVdNu_L_APGh-y-TpKrONND4PH7NcmMwL70M86yH5L4RgUcs5Wz_Tz7Zbt4ClY5s2Gl1fktrUXzAehTbyT-7TZz76gAlYNDY1_nwk6DaJ8k8CDfj6tVxzvsnOIxgES_HZ3hYtwaYbpUUL1tY9ZMtB70Y_JWLft" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="918" data-original-width="1264" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiGT7J9jyddgXPJq1qrNUb-3TSVdNu_L_APGh-y-TpKrONND4PH7NcmMwL70M86yH5L4RgUcs5Wz_Tz7Zbt4ClY5s2Gl1fktrUXzAehTbyT-7TZz76gAlYNDY1_nwk6DaJ8k8CDfj6tVxzvsnOIxgES_HZ3hYtwaYbpUUL1tY9ZMtB70Y_JWLft" width="573" /></a><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">A screenshot of the route tracked from Camp Muir to the summit crater climbed on 8/8/23 with Gaia GPS. Travel to the true summit then back to the crater rim will take quite a bit of additional time.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><u><i>Feature to Feature Updates (in order climbing from Muir to Summit):</i></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><b>The Cowlitz:</b></i> Leaving Camp Muir, the Cowlitz Glacier is opening up quite a bit with some sizable crevasses. There is a significant one just before the transition to the rocks below Cathedral Gap that in higher snow years does not open up. The traverse is now lower to avoid this, gaining the rocks below the crack. Know that as soon as you're leaving camp, you're stepping out onto a real glacier with real crevasse fall potential. Additionally, there is quite high objective overhead rockfall hazard from Gibraltar and Cathedral rocks when crossing the Cowlitz, so be sure to move through this terrain efficiently.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div></li><li><div style="text-align: justify;"><i style="font-weight: bold;">High Crack (~11,300')</i>: As you climb out of Ingraham Flats, the first notable feature you come to before entering the Ice Box and Bowling Alley is a very large longitudinal crevasse, or crack that runs up and down on the mountain (glacial anatomy typically causes glaciers to have cross-slope crevasses, as the ice is stretched out over rolls on the hill side). This vertical crevasse is often referred to as "High Crack", and here is the first ladder crossing of the route. After this, you move into the Ice Box and Bowling Alley, named for their overhead hazards. Move through these efficiently as well.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div></li><li><div style="text-align: justify;"><i style="font-weight: bold;">Getting onto the Cleaver: </i>Due to high temperatures and the lower snow year, the transition from the glacier to get onto the cleaver has been an issue this year, and continues to be one of the condition-dependent navigational cruxes of the route. In the two or so weeks, there has been a reroute across a narrow section of ice, that then gains the cleaver on some quickly melting, and thin, small snow and ice features. This traverse is vulnerable to the incoming high temperatures and will pose more and more of a challenge as the season continues on. There is not currently a good way to protect this traverse. The cleaver itself is free of snow.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div></li><li style="text-align: justify;"><i style="font-weight: bold;">Traverse out to the Emmons Shoulder (~12,800'): </i>There were <b>3 route <i>adjuncts</i></b>, or pieces of equipment that are in place to provide easier travel, above the Cleaver on 8/8/23. Consistent with our update a little more than a week ago, there is one adjunct in the form of a ladder crossing at 12,800' right before the traverse begins. Following this, there is a single plank to cross a widening smaller crack. Then, there is another series of three ladders latched together to cross a matrix of cathedraled cracks at 12,900' which has gotten significantly more hollow and undercut since our last update. Look at the comparison photos below to see just how much a glacier can change in two weeks late in the season! As with any fixed gear on the route, while the guide services place these adjuncts, it is not their job to guarantee that they are safe for <i>you </i>to use — only their clients. Adjunct stability can change throughout the day. This means that before crossing any adjunct, be sure to evaluate the structural integrity of what they are placed on. If you do not think it's safe, do not use it! Your safety is in your hands, not on the guide services. </li></ul><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhBWP4RVkNBNk4D16ZLkC4qquE-115XpG83uFK-ETNf5GDeMbE_udLA4m8DG-GVA7szVIblSmSMVDnOLInWFkQz03UqLexZG5nKpL9wMGXouRiiluJ0P7TPkEFz0cQyOJExNGCvg2J7LcxXKygusV06Ma-BAmcWu8Ra_i8nQlMlQ0Xe8rFqcesz" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="676" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhBWP4RVkNBNk4D16ZLkC4qquE-115XpG83uFK-ETNf5GDeMbE_udLA4m8DG-GVA7szVIblSmSMVDnOLInWFkQz03UqLexZG5nKpL9wMGXouRiiluJ0P7TPkEFz0cQyOJExNGCvg2J7LcxXKygusV06Ma-BAmcWu8Ra_i8nQlMlQ0Xe8rFqcesz=w507-h676" width="507" /></a><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Initial ladder crossing above the Cleaver near 12,800' on the descent. (8/8/23)</span></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhVbjOdd8P0851J4UFZ0ECAdT42XdH4z2HRZ5SPDZzbFun20XxvJ4LUNvyAq7XPV7TwC1cwU3jpzebgxELsl00wKwEtHmve5njS7TxkuXJVg_3RQxkLGqlYI7h76OOxwbIJLsejAA1eT6Hqva0mYkZW7AZfkaAnaR4MBp7p4FodFRWe3s4ilYzR" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhVbjOdd8P0851J4UFZ0ECAdT42XdH4z2HRZ5SPDZzbFun20XxvJ4LUNvyAq7XPV7TwC1cwU3jpzebgxELsl00wKwEtHmve5njS7TxkuXJVg_3RQxkLGqlYI7h76OOxwbIJLsejAA1eT6Hqva0mYkZW7AZfkaAnaR4MBp7p4FodFRWe3s4ilYzR=w596-h448" width="596" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The single plank crossing between 12,800' and 12,900' (8/8/23)</span></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgg6aHePcaKSrihctylA5a521nZgwwXieU1NfCM5G6TLPBGzn8XsilkujoC9VSUIRwSmV4JLlKQLCSW8F6oe8c6ZBFoYUCXXWg5mKYGg6u58GcMRtB6Zb06rDlELSS0g8-0PsTpwbChn0Tp9asQNx3k86exTZldWG13pIuBzQEoHFoKRry62pUp" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="457" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgg6aHePcaKSrihctylA5a521nZgwwXieU1NfCM5G6TLPBGzn8XsilkujoC9VSUIRwSmV4JLlKQLCSW8F6oe8c6ZBFoYUCXXWg5mKYGg6u58GcMRtB6Zb06rDlELSS0g8-0PsTpwbChn0Tp9asQNx3k86exTZldWG13pIuBzQEoHFoKRry62pUp=w608-h457" width="608" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The 12,900' triple ladder crossing as of 8/8/23. Note the undercut and "cathedraled" nature of the bridge across the crack.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgzni6J3H4bMbGANT7aC1pK4yDi73koit2G5AlODcNUuOlQGV9lHfMl2w-IuXI2HyS9g2sk2_G7rnq7e_9MdXMWtgwC0Hma0VdnF8olZqZirgC99upO0CKcteIF31GqKekRZa_H3zx_tEqBERRYP-NZ_iJ8UyAc0sF6rXiPyDV5wdZ-VKnpVUYF" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgzni6J3H4bMbGANT7aC1pK4yDi73koit2G5AlODcNUuOlQGV9lHfMl2w-IuXI2HyS9g2sk2_G7rnq7e_9MdXMWtgwC0Hma0VdnF8olZqZirgC99upO0CKcteIF31GqKekRZa_H3zx_tEqBERRYP-NZ_iJ8UyAc0sF6rXiPyDV5wdZ-VKnpVUYF=w578-h434" width="578" /></a><br />The same ladder crossing at 12,900' on 7/23/23, just two weeks prior. Notice the significantly higher amount of snow and ice present than in the last photo.</div><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><u style="font-style: italic;">Other considerations:<br /></u>There have been a handful of fixed protection pieces on the route to clip into on more exposed sections above the Cleaver in the form of pickets placed by guide services. If you bring your own alpine draws (sling with two carabiners) you can utilize these pieces, however know that it is your responsibility to evaluate if these pickets are still safe to trust. Feel free to reset them if they are melting out, but don't move or take them. The number of pieces of fixed pro on the upper mountain has been fluctuating, so there may be none there when you climb. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><u>Looking forward:</u></i></div><div style="text-align: left;">The weather forecast — which has had varying levels of accuracy in the past few weeks — through the weekend tells us one thing: hot, hot, hot! This can affect the route, and route adjuncts, drastically as the mountain changes. The mountain is most alive this late in the season, and expect a dynamic environment up there. Have fun, be safe, leave camp early, and return early in the day with time to enjoy an afternoon nap before descending! That's the DC as of 8/8/23 folks. See you up on the mountain!</div></div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /></div><br /><p></p>Brooke Maushundhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00372307316775998873noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-51659332303526902102023-08-10T15:08:00.003-07:002023-08-10T15:12:04.195-07:00Muir Snowfield Update 8/9/23<p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Blue Ice, </span>crevasses, and w<span style="font-family: inherit;">arm temperatures oh </span>my!<span style="font-family: inherit;"> The Muir Snowfield is becoming more of an "Icefield" than a snowfield. There is exposed glacial ice with a number of crevasses beginning to open up above 8500'. Where there is snow, the surface conditions are quite sun cupped and coated with a fine layer of rock and dust. These hazards will only progress with our forecasted hot temperatures over the next week. </span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8HgSUS_zdHKLMx_KRdCcCV8NJfZfHsaHlO7QUyfs8r32utAMoKinJZGdarCoL6Pyo2XIq87N8IJD2FcA6tmRKAUwvnn_4ZQN9RT2iocFkIeUcRP3L81vRYV4AySHdwfIrbiUBG-ZOHeAvuu9S1GO1n4bZgTgExKGgg34l8ynMp2QGmd9Jlfoi/s4032/IMG-5766.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8HgSUS_zdHKLMx_KRdCcCV8NJfZfHsaHlO7QUyfs8r32utAMoKinJZGdarCoL6Pyo2XIq87N8IJD2FcA6tmRKAUwvnn_4ZQN9RT2iocFkIeUcRP3L81vRYV4AySHdwfIrbiUBG-ZOHeAvuu9S1GO1n4bZgTgExKGgg34l8ynMp2QGmd9Jlfoi/w640-h480/IMG-5766.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">~8in Wide Crevasse at 9,600ft </td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><span style="font-family: inherit;">The crevasses that are present on the upper portion of the snowfield are </span>relatively<span style="font-family: inherit;"> easy to spot and navigate around, but caution should still be taken as the surface condition adjacent to these features are firm and icy. Take caution while descending from Camp Muir, as a couple of these cracks can be difficult to spot from above.</span><div><br /><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQeJesYcXDmYlxlwphPSv07HVcZ9tl1R1aljIS8i2wuYEo8HYR8uxmlqBRLEnmxjsYUXp-8GL2FJmIt7QS-tjNZa9yzgnE9jO2QouX8Q7zcrt46XvhRwYIarY_vWcVfYnXwszaXh0NwKNFd4Kb7j8wVDyj6TGdx_IqgWzH1v2vXupOeVYWLMec/s4032/IMG-7070.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQeJesYcXDmYlxlwphPSv07HVcZ9tl1R1aljIS8i2wuYEo8HYR8uxmlqBRLEnmxjsYUXp-8GL2FJmIt7QS-tjNZa9yzgnE9jO2QouX8Q7zcrt46XvhRwYIarY_vWcVfYnXwszaXh0NwKNFd4Kb7j8wVDyj6TGdx_IqgWzH1v2vXupOeVYWLMec/w480-h640/IMG-7070.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Snowbridge someone punched through adjacent to a worn boot pack</td></tr></tbody></table><br />While navigating the Snowfield, we recommend appropriate sturdy boots that are capable of accepting micro spikes or even crampons! Devices like these that add traction on the snow and ice greatly add security. Trekking poles are also recommended to aid in hiking on this variable and often slick terrain. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6r_tG5ZFSoHKmgnXqvDAIxt4bjY5n86HRwMqs-f7m-u3DRaLbUDyEHOD5fhYO2y_mmhguPz6GJYxPFFL0nmaREuUcSfpiThLESItyTa5XsIwaV4VDgv5bbntDlmzaieWkUoGqEbh94T2hO5VyFxsVKmlEXzggT7hYmpNRH8sKaRkWgqP0PTPT/s4032/IMG-5763.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6r_tG5ZFSoHKmgnXqvDAIxt4bjY5n86HRwMqs-f7m-u3DRaLbUDyEHOD5fhYO2y_mmhguPz6GJYxPFFL0nmaREuUcSfpiThLESItyTa5XsIwaV4VDgv5bbntDlmzaieWkUoGqEbh94T2hO5VyFxsVKmlEXzggT7hYmpNRH8sKaRkWgqP0PTPT/w640-h480/IMG-5763.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking Down the Snowfield</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Finally, having and knowing how to use GPS devices/applications is essential to aid in navigating on the snowfield. It is exceptionally common to find yourself in whiteout conditions and these modern tools can be a literal lifesaver.</div><div><br /></div></div>Steven Mosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12796021546859262629noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-83333992253545697072023-08-04T12:58:00.001-07:002023-08-04T12:58:50.859-07:00The Kautz 8/2/2023Climbing Rangers got on the ice pitches of the Kautz on Wednesday and they are in excellent condition. Even if you don't go or make it to the summit, the ice pitches of the Kautz can be an excellent outing to sneak in some ice climbing in August and September.<div><br /></div><div>The Rangers took the Wilson Gulley to approach the Castle. Be sure to move through the rock fall hazard efficiently if you choose to go this way. It may not be an option much longer this season. The fan has been completely melted out for a while now. Consider the Comet Falls to Van Trump approach; you gain more elevation this way, but it's more of a hike and has no overhead hazard. <br /><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgQFfLdnEviSCk88zggbHpuDI7aMWoVQoWTwqT_FJKJCyneLsST8Tq6P5C9AifmbVAJcUQOcYvI7DCEcJfKA6Zi8fk5eFNnuWGu-flxFYeqkG-GXQY4Es0B9NoGwSWMnJ3Jb8qp8gRSoBQmnPS93rrppS0O8ldOqRehQf4SpEVEgncLVVga2c-51g" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgQFfLdnEviSCk88zggbHpuDI7aMWoVQoWTwqT_FJKJCyneLsST8Tq6P5C9AifmbVAJcUQOcYvI7DCEcJfKA6Zi8fk5eFNnuWGu-flxFYeqkG-GXQY4Es0B9NoGwSWMnJ3Jb8qp8gRSoBQmnPS93rrppS0O8ldOqRehQf4SpEVEgncLVVga2c-51g" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wilson Gulley to Wilson Bench on Tuesday 8/1/23</td></tr></tbody></table><br />There is heaps of water flowing at the Castle bivy sites and some at the upper bivies before the rock step, at least from the heat of the day to the evening. Rangers did find a number of abandoned blue bags around the bivy sites that they had to carry down. Please remember to carry out your human waste to help keep these sites and the water source clean.</div><div><br /></div><div>The rock step was about as easy at it gets this time of year, but once a small patch snow at the bottom melts away, it will present a more significant and challenging down climb. Even now we would still recommend setting up a belay for the descent and ascent out of there for the move to step off the rock is quite exposed. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgUbH-UyJigHEQdgh5-ONz05qQ73USW2CVhRNBZv3hDIOQFjK9WbFJCw8blSWTLW8WgiSLWVcLw2ocwYu6tPEC8hsEeKAY9fvrbpQJFbuTR_-7zfVlmWzDbrMPM5EpTNLuyQ2eRAxBILsMzGu7lkorJ22nUmmHvdb843bfFcuQwCKYMWBnY-0J3fg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgUbH-UyJigHEQdgh5-ONz05qQ73USW2CVhRNBZv3hDIOQFjK9WbFJCw8blSWTLW8WgiSLWVcLw2ocwYu6tPEC8hsEeKAY9fvrbpQJFbuTR_-7zfVlmWzDbrMPM5EpTNLuyQ2eRAxBILsMzGu7lkorJ22nUmmHvdb843bfFcuQwCKYMWBnY-0J3fg=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking from the bottom of the Rock Step at the Kautz Ice pitches and the traverse over to the base 8/2/23<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">The traverse onto the Kautz did not have as many hanging seracs as it has had in the past, but that will likely change soon and it would still be good to move efficiently through here as you will see from signs of recent rock fall. Check the moat as you move off the rock onto the Glacier for this could present a hazard as well. The ice pitches themselves present varying levels of challenge depending on what line you choose. The giant penitente there offer excellent pro for the accent and quick bollard anchors for the descent. Still be sure to bring a number of ice screws as well for protection, you can find some proper ice amongst the penitente.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj0EF-IIWXwbH9y-GVD9xCtau26a7JL5S9O7sJU973hqKDDL4L-0l8i1Efm4wY_oLJ1JNyWDPBAZEiNE4QMqI1RWP-S8PVb-6Aa-_gY1h4Ysh-v7O2VBn0GkJytuAmCjhotZkLTMGRDwEuiSKmPJQE_hHBZDd_CTa3v_K2mV2mmtBDzxijGpo_bxg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj0EF-IIWXwbH9y-GVD9xCtau26a7JL5S9O7sJU973hqKDDL4L-0l8i1Efm4wY_oLJ1JNyWDPBAZEiNE4QMqI1RWP-S8PVb-6Aa-_gY1h4Ysh-v7O2VBn0GkJytuAmCjhotZkLTMGRDwEuiSKmPJQE_hHBZDd_CTa3v_K2mV2mmtBDzxijGpo_bxg=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up the ice pitches and through the giant penitente. The gulley in the center is easier, while you could find more challenging ice steps on the sides of the gully. </td></tr></tbody></table><br />If you descend through Van Trump, be sure to stop and smell some of the flowers that are coming out. And please remember to leave the wilderness better than you find it by packing out your own trash and any microtrash you may find. We look forward to seeing you on the mountain. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhuxmihCyt61uz_NlvohYVhfYS3CHyolHeb6lNiIx1VfqHcawi9ijig6hqAuhgMRSeaLquDwfpnj1sAxw8mAyRz3-AZq_dg5dYJvdLHB4Snmkg3wWQe85vfN_qc6cyHwgYjTeILcvwxP_waehW2K7DvhAngleHgjsfG7EAlcJ-xIdgUkoAP6G84tw" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="764" data-original-width="1108" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhuxmihCyt61uz_NlvohYVhfYS3CHyolHeb6lNiIx1VfqHcawi9ijig6hqAuhgMRSeaLquDwfpnj1sAxw8mAyRz3-AZq_dg5dYJvdLHB4Snmkg3wWQe85vfN_qc6cyHwgYjTeILcvwxP_waehW2K7DvhAngleHgjsfG7EAlcJ-xIdgUkoAP6G84tw=w640-h442" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up from Van Trump to Kautz on 8/3/23<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div>Kathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01753501928544312146noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-49090436058145462322023-07-27T10:46:00.002-07:002023-07-28T08:02:06.061-07:00DC Route Update 7/27<p><span> </span>The current route is relatively straightforward, well-traveled and even beginning to get trenched out in spots with increased traffic during periods with high freezing levels. While inclement weather earlier this week made challenging and dangerous conditions, there have been many successful summit climbs from guided, individual, and ranger groups when the conditions have cooperated.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0hwF19Dc9xU8vRB-KRxH74qDBMYuv6Qg59d98RN9uVPqC3wjLfNakQ1p-Nc624uYEHa_CY5_3DHXyAXDOX1_YVk4ta5XPnHfKwBhaOXQbMmyjJLF3zBUF7lzX7m75tZVPihMoEpuBQP19nmAKBlWGF6FUXCyieardFqBZwXFnKayIWHUavZIs/s716/Capture.PNG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="635" data-original-width="716" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0hwF19Dc9xU8vRB-KRxH74qDBMYuv6Qg59d98RN9uVPqC3wjLfNakQ1p-Nc624uYEHa_CY5_3DHXyAXDOX1_YVk4ta5XPnHfKwBhaOXQbMmyjJLF3zBUF7lzX7m75tZVPihMoEpuBQP19nmAKBlWGF6FUXCyieardFqBZwXFnKayIWHUavZIs/w640-h568/Capture.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Route to the Summit on 7/23</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Qm0Rpxkq1QRAU_99UzTUZ3e0JuN1rU5k48H5LH4sL_1TXWF5HXVkkApBD1UghaS6xz9c3cvPtxrw1QbKWZE7M_OVFuO_NwRrlk20p-KaHuic5SS2Qd8-R-nyL7pLDUqBzKA4om-BJ9ffO_XvMhuiJ7ko43Ds4bsoH5Kjr5kcqe6wzoqCLoEM/s2048/IMG_5556.JPEG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Qm0Rpxkq1QRAU_99UzTUZ3e0JuN1rU5k48H5LH4sL_1TXWF5HXVkkApBD1UghaS6xz9c3cvPtxrw1QbKWZE7M_OVFuO_NwRrlk20p-KaHuic5SS2Qd8-R-nyL7pLDUqBzKA4om-BJ9ffO_XvMhuiJ7ko43Ds4bsoH5Kjr5kcqe6wzoqCLoEM/w640-h480/IMG_5556.JPEG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up the Ingraham and the DC from Dunn's Roll</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLv4SOAcSCNXwsuUdKoFOLgetDwZQWDsvMsOppEnBWpsqGuivpHwyvIpc2l8I7dn7mx6TyM5sGatRuxm9RaHaJtLoOZnilUV8Iko8AplVH3y91dyIeCzNAjWoTdvtWXlPG4eMg8BZmhoPU2sp9nnCr01gv0HGR1Vy28SkVdHA1-MvgpJiEAsf0/s2048/IMG_5558.JPEG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLv4SOAcSCNXwsuUdKoFOLgetDwZQWDsvMsOppEnBWpsqGuivpHwyvIpc2l8I7dn7mx6TyM5sGatRuxm9RaHaJtLoOZnilUV8Iko8AplVH3y91dyIeCzNAjWoTdvtWXlPG4eMg8BZmhoPU2sp9nnCr01gv0HGR1Vy28SkVdHA1-MvgpJiEAsf0/w640-h480/IMG_5558.JPEG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ladder w/Handline at High Crack (~11,300ft)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><span> The Disappointment Cleaver is almost entirely rock at this stage of the season, and guide teams have worked hard to maintain a well wanded path through the loose rocks. Parties are encouraged to pause, look around, and consider using these route aids when they are present. Please maintain good situational awareness when climbing the mountain and think of where the best/safest paths of travel are for you and your group. While traveling on the cleaver itself, take caution not to travel directly above or below other parties when at all possible, and use appropriate rope management techniques to ensure your rope is not dragging on the ground where it can knock loose rocks on your partners or other climbers. </span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span> </span>Last weeks re-route above the cleaver has become quite "punched in" with this past weekend's traffic, but summer temperatures have and will continue to change the conditions on the upper mountain in the coming weeks. There is a ladder at ~12,800 before the route trends right towards the Emmons shoulder. Next, parties climb up, then back down on the shoulder around more broken terrain to a degrading snow plug and an additional installed ladder at ~12,900. </div><div><br /></div><div><span> Above the cleaver there are about a dozen fixed pickets at various locations for climbers to use as running protection if they choose. If you do use these pickets, please inspect each piece of protection before clipping your rope team to them. These route adjuncts are not maintained by the NPS and may not be as secure as they were when they were initially placed hours or even days before your party comes upon them.</span></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuRNnaoIUvKx_MM3oX1cKUC3_-b11-MjrMjBEMOMU9uD3wODVEj5fcZ2oaHFcY2FxbVf2uDiwkEF_Pa8VWStH_Z_ALjVbv_qIUhucyTC5UDxaC2mfF12GDDC82mXTFDp8Ll18gqjs6OkSJ0P2doZqO_SZJwAjKnW8gZ3B2Nia9sg1K0CVAp0tl/s2048/IMG_5574.JPEG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuRNnaoIUvKx_MM3oX1cKUC3_-b11-MjrMjBEMOMU9uD3wODVEj5fcZ2oaHFcY2FxbVf2uDiwkEF_Pa8VWStH_Z_ALjVbv_qIUhucyTC5UDxaC2mfF12GDDC82mXTFDp8Ll18gqjs6OkSJ0P2doZqO_SZJwAjKnW8gZ3B2Nia9sg1K0CVAp0tl/w640-h480/IMG_5574.JPEG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ladder at ~12,900ft (Photo from 7/23)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><span> Once across this ladder, the route makes a long traverse back climbers left, and slightly down under some beautiful and impressive cracks, blocks, and gnarled portions of the Ingraham Glacier. After this nearly 2000ft traverse at 13,400, switchbacks and a few smaller crack crossings lead to the crater rim.</span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span><span> </span>While the current route is well traveled and easy to follow, as conditions change, please question if that snowbridge, the wanded path, or that placed ladder is the best/safest route of travel for your group. Sometimes the best way to cross a crevasse is to walk off the "trail" and around, rather than leaping over it like the party in front of you did!</span></div>Steven Mosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12796021546859262629noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-6207618785788804642023-07-20T14:22:00.002-07:002023-07-30T18:31:42.815-07:00DC Route Update 7/20<span> </span>A few updates for all on our ever-changing route up the Disappointment Cleaver.
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2f5eVJst7dh0JhFVEzcE0qagfpEWzUQ44wPiePCsO7pSdBtBP3TWCZxmu0XJ5nkKm6vMCVJul4n3ly0mw2ppV7LEgwBrECzwGnVGgdY2OTnSBB7mXMwHusZNMMabBQTyytpfujVOO01hCsmbfVmy4BjTPjEywd0Szo5gzYxYBoSwLn6JOlxpS/s4032/Rainr.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2f5eVJst7dh0JhFVEzcE0qagfpEWzUQ44wPiePCsO7pSdBtBP3TWCZxmu0XJ5nkKm6vMCVJul4n3ly0mw2ppV7LEgwBrECzwGnVGgdY2OTnSBB7mXMwHusZNMMabBQTyytpfujVOO01hCsmbfVmy4BjTPjEywd0Szo5gzYxYBoSwLn6JOlxpS/w640-h480/Rainr.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Sunset over Little T as seen from above the DC.</i></td></tr></tbody></table> <i><div style="text-align: center;"> </div></i><div><span> </span> Overall, the majority of the route itself remains very “punched in”. There continues to be frequent success for guide parties and independent teams alike with the recent high pressure. One will notice however, that throughout the season the route is evolving and presenting new hazards. We’re getting to that point in the summer where the mountain begins to rapidly transform, leading to both small and large changes to the upper mountain climbing.</div><div><br /></div><div><span> </span> As of early morning on Tuesday July 18th, there is a “reroute” from roughly 13,100 until 13,800ft. The upper wall of a crevasse the route traveled over collapsed which led made the crack impassible. Guide teams were able to reroute at this collapse, taking climbers right to end-run this crack and ultimately traverse over to the Emmons Shoulder. The previous route that led climbers on a traverse towards the Nisqually/Camp Comfort is no more! As this blog is being written, route working teams are on the upper mountain adjusting and fine tuning this new path. It is anticipated that this redirect to the Emmons Shoulder is what will become the norm. </div><div><br /></div><div><span> </span> If your party plans on climbing in the coming few days, expect this new route to not be as much of a “punched in” sidewalk as the previous one. There might be pickets placed as running protection over the new exposed traverse as well. Embrace the challenge of climbing Mt. Rainier by being some of the first to climb behind the teams pioneering the latest track to the summit. </div><div><br /></div><div><span> </span> Regardless if the route is new, old, or in a trough, use good glacial judgement skills and your own discretion… Listen in on what your climbing ranger at Muir has to say on the tips and techniques of success to this route. </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span> </span> Happy Climbing!!
</div>Thomas Lindleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06468023317310004649noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-45672197347841946142023-07-17T15:00:00.002-07:002023-07-17T15:00:36.642-07:00Emmons-Winthrop Update 7/15/23<p style="text-align: left;">The Emmons-Winthrop route saw quite a bit of guided and independent climbing traffic over the weekend! The commonly traveled route does have a pretty well defined boot track. However, skeletal ice is present from Emmons Flats to around 10,500 ft and the boot track can be easily lost. This area is characterized by frequent crevasse crossings, variable snow bridges, and even running water in spots! While this zone is currently navigable, your own judgement and route-finding skills are the key to efficient travel. Dynamic weather conditions will require diligent terrain assessment, especially on the descent when temperatures are warmer and climbers are tired from a long day on the hill.</p><p style="text-align: left;">The majority of the route remains very similar to our recent blog posts. There is a long climbers right traverse starting at ~12,200 ft. This traverse ends with a notable crossing at 12,300 ft characterized by a large step up and over the crevasse. Continue to evaluate this crossing as the weather remains warm and conditions change. From 12,300 ft to around 13,500 ft, the route meanders through some switchbacks and is rather straightforward. Around 13,500 ft., there is another long climbers' right traverse that heads to the saddle. As our last blog post states, there are likely other more direct routes out there if you care to find them. Of note, there was some fairly recent serac fall that crossed the boot pack on the 13,500 ft traverse. This is noted in the photos below. The debris that crossed the boot pack was softball to basketball sized. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBYhNbjJMV41wNNcIv-uxn2RckODLtCODBF9gxT54xRY20l6gdMToxnzq7kkhjFV5zADnlhB2dpmXGQwA0gQk2Zuda3GtICQkTI1pKG-jVUF0f4_xn7SIyoiziWqErGk3QmUyz1ztSLV0uhfEJRoeh53vx5gOG0uLyNmEX5ou2iDOv0T6uZQzWaQ/s4032/13.3%20traverse%20emmons.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBYhNbjJMV41wNNcIv-uxn2RckODLtCODBF9gxT54xRY20l6gdMToxnzq7kkhjFV5zADnlhB2dpmXGQwA0gQk2Zuda3GtICQkTI1pKG-jVUF0f4_xn7SIyoiziWqErGk3QmUyz1ztSLV0uhfEJRoeh53vx5gOG0uLyNmEX5ou2iDOv0T6uZQzWaQ/w640-h480/13.3%20traverse%20emmons.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recent serac fall debris around 13,500 ft on the Emmons-Winthrop</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIgX03Ar45R14U_L8wJRRzJuVr_dpSzwentZU-b5NuHnDgKU6gIWfIwlBtGLCNRRPEkg-TZuo722tNTe4KlO-Dl9Rd2PJVxcrwQuhed1JsdqlYC5m9xJJiZ3QkLxnhgmZjXl-r4Nep79q8FdafEMAqQS0pM_tzFe1pr-_SBAoZJA0wWLDOasr5vA/s4032/serac%20fall%20emmons.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIgX03Ar45R14U_L8wJRRzJuVr_dpSzwentZU-b5NuHnDgKU6gIWfIwlBtGLCNRRPEkg-TZuo722tNTe4KlO-Dl9Rd2PJVxcrwQuhed1JsdqlYC5m9xJJiZ3QkLxnhgmZjXl-r4Nep79q8FdafEMAqQS0pM_tzFe1pr-_SBAoZJA0wWLDOasr5vA/w640-h480/serac%20fall%20emmons.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Serac chunks just above the 13,500 ft traverse</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr5JkSGcdXx5vuzmaq5889dXqvA3RfcXhdwh4PEf-PfuITEzL9hPAihrB2FpW_WxsjfIVpqpnwakeN-LTH3evCLxnk-qYjG29-ZoRbNdlDFhRYhOwk08hKVFsiuhS2RxifF6nmXh-VTTqNcXwJwoeDO7Xhl_jdgE31exmoIWPGnYubnSD_fW82yg/s521/Emmons%207-15.PNG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="435" data-original-width="521" height="534" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr5JkSGcdXx5vuzmaq5889dXqvA3RfcXhdwh4PEf-PfuITEzL9hPAihrB2FpW_WxsjfIVpqpnwakeN-LTH3evCLxnk-qYjG29-ZoRbNdlDFhRYhOwk08hKVFsiuhS2RxifF6nmXh-VTTqNcXwJwoeDO7Xhl_jdgE31exmoIWPGnYubnSD_fW82yg/w640-h534/Emmons%207-15.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A way up the Emmons Winthrop Route</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbOF4_4-tE6jic2u6eWOMTHfOgYcEyTFNezL9gTQDlNBE0Oh5j09kCnO7Ad0NayKhCnHxPkwhfsZDQm6AaVVuAOQL48cwkeWSb5Cec2LJZVv9GHxpViJjWFbhNNoTYpy2Xdd9xTcEizu777aJ9JRHVtXLG6Z2VrjloX-0cPsp3McC5X1DRgIQOqw/s4032/schurman%20sunset.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbOF4_4-tE6jic2u6eWOMTHfOgYcEyTFNezL9gTQDlNBE0Oh5j09kCnO7Ad0NayKhCnHxPkwhfsZDQm6AaVVuAOQL48cwkeWSb5Cec2LJZVv9GHxpViJjWFbhNNoTYpy2Xdd9xTcEizu777aJ9JRHVtXLG6Z2VrjloX-0cPsp3McC5X1DRgIQOqw/w640-h480/schurman%20sunset.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning light looking North from Camp Schurman<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">We hope to see you in the park and up on the mountain! </div></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div></div><br /><br /><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><p></p>Marissa Popphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15340721672802122098noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-41718319762347236332023-07-13T15:16:00.000-07:002023-07-13T15:16:24.285-07:00Disappointment Cleaver Update 7/9/23<p><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><span>Rangers were on the DC route this past Sunday July 7th and were stationed at Camp Muir for the last several days. The route continues to evolve with our warm and dry weather pattern we have been having. We are continuing to notice large changes in the route sometimes only a day or two apart. The biggest thing that was observed however was consistent rockfall from both sides of Cathedral Rock area and the Bowling Alley feature. Multiple large rock fall occurrences were observed during both warm daylight hours and early morning hours before the sun starts to warm things up. The risk from these hazards grows with greater exposure so efficiency and timing are the key factors here... </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgFD3TKFrv17PgKzKlLc1uxD9HH-iRHSRC6vr8yx873Afu53xHHlq84twOrIVSjkjLVXhc-P9rHd0Ijd567IbpiaKD9vSU4bojQvA3aO63JrUZo2oB9ZR2cHeHsDH0XSyE4fx4Tl8s-Y_ZTQYtFjNumiWJ_HZMSZ2Nb8oYjkZGyl0zQC7ClNJ2/s4032/IMG-8486.jpg" style="background-color: #f3f3f3; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgFD3TKFrv17PgKzKlLc1uxD9HH-iRHSRC6vr8yx873Afu53xHHlq84twOrIVSjkjLVXhc-P9rHd0Ijd567IbpiaKD9vSU4bojQvA3aO63JrUZo2oB9ZR2cHeHsDH0XSyE4fx4Tl8s-Y_ZTQYtFjNumiWJ_HZMSZ2Nb8oYjkZGyl0zQC7ClNJ2/s320/IMG-8486.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;">Sunrise on 7/9/23</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #f3f3f3;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid transparent; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: black; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1px; position: relative;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><div><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; font-family: times;">The route itself remains very “punched in”. There has been significant traffic between guide parties and independent teams alike, creating a trough at certain points leading to the summit. There are subtleties within the greater climb that are constantly evolving and presenting new hazards, but in general, the climbing route is in good shape. </span></div><div><ul style="line-height: 1.4; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 2.5em;"><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: 36pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; font-family: times;">As mentioned in earlier blog posts, Cathedral Gap is snow free and by now the Cleaver itself is snow free. We ask again that you please mitigate your team’s risk by not breaking underneath overhead exposure, shorten your the rope for travel in the rocks, and always wear your helmets.</span></span></li><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: 36pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; font-family: times;">The entrance onto the Ingraham glacier has some very large crevasses opening up, these may pose route finding difficulties as the season progresses but for now the route stays fairly direct through this area. Guide services have places pickets to aid in the safety of this portion. </span></span></li></ul><ul style="line-height: 1.4; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 2.5em;"><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; font-family: times;">At high crack (just above Ingraham Flats) there remains a ladder that is both short and well placed. Use caution while crossing by having good rope spacing and communication. </span></li></ul><ul style="line-height: 1.4; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 2.5em;"><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; font-family: times;">Getting onto the backboard of the cleaver is fairly straightforward, though there is a significant bridge you cross just before you get onto the cleaver. The handline here is gone. Please don’t break in this zone until you are on the spine of the cleaver, free of overhead hazard! The trail along the spine is snow free aside from a small patch here and there. </span></li></ul><ul style="line-height: 1.4; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 2.5em;"><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; font-family: times;">Above the cleaver the route “zigzags” its way through icefall and crevasses until roughly 13,400 when the route traverses left almost all the way to the Nisqually! A pleasant break for tired legs but be prepared for the climb to be very direct after finishing the traverse. </span></li></ul><div><span style="background-color: #eeeeee;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8b167Ua7ipuXJaRsyEEuNow4P6OqFZW84QUCLWBS84LpuF7fkUODqDUZ8JnkDw1RYRRYi8BzWa0F6c43nHtSjyUm8UT-090JdG6C3CzpKq7A4VrXLzHN4r9RptZiGxpzXRvG1b1q5MxHwhLLrhtMSJdrRqbStwbW_H9yV-JgLAGeV5OYKCgq/s4032/IMG-8523.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8b167Ua7ipuXJaRsyEEuNow4P6OqFZW84QUCLWBS84LpuF7fkUODqDUZ8JnkDw1RYRRYi8BzWa0F6c43nHtSjyUm8UT-090JdG6C3CzpKq7A4VrXLzHN4r9RptZiGxpzXRvG1b1q5MxHwhLLrhtMSJdrRqbStwbW_H9yV-JgLAGeV5OYKCgq/s320/IMG-8523.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />Ladder over 'High Crack', 7/9/23</span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; font-family: times;"><span> Rangers have been noticing a fair amount of congestion and bottlenecking on the upper mountain in particular. Often our team was able to observe groups crossing ropes and climbing directly above another team without communicating effectively to the other party. These maneuvers present risk to all parties involved and great care should be taken when attempting to pass a group. Making sure that all parties are stationed in a safe stopping point and have good footing is a bare minimum. </span><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times;"><div class="separator" style="background-color: #eeeeee; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjreyq8OawI6plQyuIbts6SfR4lPUvY9aoch3lSirsePBlv716hxWeu6yJzh8RUJYHdEqEUuQ20LkcxIwIpcb0V-ZjSj6CBS7v85nRALh82u5FCbTJkjc5zJT4ACnS481NJ4SEdMj9fEGyu5DwdDOoMoXETZWsfjSpvkmokIFPJbYSl7zgz0SMj/s4032/IMG-8508.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjreyq8OawI6plQyuIbts6SfR4lPUvY9aoch3lSirsePBlv716hxWeu6yJzh8RUJYHdEqEUuQ20LkcxIwIpcb0V-ZjSj6CBS7v85nRALh82u5FCbTJkjc5zJT4ACnS481NJ4SEdMj9fEGyu5DwdDOoMoXETZWsfjSpvkmokIFPJbYSl7zgz0SMj/s320/IMG-8508.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />Groups on the upper part of the DC 7/9/23</div></span></div></div><div><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div><p dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-size: 15.4px; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">While the route is wanded and often easy to follow, we like to remind folks that the trough is not always the best travel! Use YOUR discretion and safe judgement skills but understand that getting out of the trough trail, especially through bottlenecking chokepoints on the route is ok. With the ever-changing conditions on the route, sometimes the best way to cross a crevasse is to walk 20ft off the trail and around rather than leaping over a gaping crack! </span></p><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; color: #333333; font-family: times; font-size: 15.4px;"><div><span style="color: #333333; font-family: times; font-size: 15.4px;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGnRDa6ICINeDw7Ufm53cwp_hWpESHEMVzyaKF25YlvyeUtCDW5uhRnmdeHazZS4EEmJVHte8d78zqyKByVpuutTkNS03UOZGDKuYkEICtGDTJWy5xSDR5783r6HIqOqoqnf6rLrGjnjrVnglKix6TrvgD-Ji8Y4839lAVl8eezNyAcOTjBmHJ/s1920/thumbnail_IMG-8527.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1920" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGnRDa6ICINeDw7Ufm53cwp_hWpESHEMVzyaKF25YlvyeUtCDW5uhRnmdeHazZS4EEmJVHte8d78zqyKByVpuutTkNS03UOZGDKuYkEICtGDTJWy5xSDR5783r6HIqOqoqnf6rLrGjnjrVnglKix6TrvgD-Ji8Y4839lAVl8eezNyAcOTjBmHJ/s320/thumbnail_IMG-8527.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />Large Crevasses opening below Ingraham Flats 7/9/23</div></div><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="color: #333333; font-size: 15.4px; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Those are the conditions as of right now on the DC! Teams have been enjoying stellar weather and good travel as of lately. Remember to check back periodically with our blog on condition updates and reread through past posts to review skill topics, tips, and tricks for safe climbing!</span></p></div><div><span style="background-color: #eeeeee; font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></div></div></td></tr></tbody></table>Peter Terwilligerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01771902708188773124noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-78479737966358447052023-07-09T12:50:00.044-07:002023-07-17T11:38:14.757-07:00Emmons-Winthrop Update 7/9<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWaBx1AqSm2c0N8tFs31onppPRj2i0shbZA_e3veVm1a93ZxP7NbeS17O0Lz_53Ej8kwyCVVHG7iAlfULJOuBp_rQTQeCV9PkD2BsJxOtYqjdb-2q0rOzqNbTdILnGsutomYncEljso8LDw6Vx-Lg33MNG7_aDHHWSUGwowGfEjcANlX9vgBNZ/s4032/45FB4234-326A-4C6C-AE6D-534F4E309FBE.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWaBx1AqSm2c0N8tFs31onppPRj2i0shbZA_e3veVm1a93ZxP7NbeS17O0Lz_53Ej8kwyCVVHG7iAlfULJOuBp_rQTQeCV9PkD2BsJxOtYqjdb-2q0rOzqNbTdILnGsutomYncEljso8LDw6Vx-Lg33MNG7_aDHHWSUGwowGfEjcANlX9vgBNZ/s320/45FB4234-326A-4C6C-AE6D-534F4E309FBE.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise on the Corridor</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>The Emmons Winthrop was still climbing well last weekend! Things are certainly starting to melt out a bit more near Emmons Flats and the Corridor, where some skeletal glacial ice is now exposed.</p><p>The commonly climbed route has been following a similar pattern to what we’ve seen throughout this season with a large traverse to the west at 12.3k to end run a large crevasse and another westerly traverse at 13k to climber’s right over the bergshrund and into the saddle. Other options certainly exist for those willing to go and find them.</p><p>Keep in mind that the area between Camp Schurman and Emmons Flats can appear deceptively benign. However, it is actually criss-crossed with crevasses. If you’re traveling back and forth between the camps, you are traveling on glacier and should be roped up with a partner.</p><p>Also warming trends could make for sudden changes along the route. So, as always - make your decisions based on what you see, not just the foot prints in front of you.</p><p>Happy Climbing!</p>Climbing Rangerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02856722918069818636noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-71771903161985359042023-07-06T13:35:00.004-07:002023-07-06T13:42:57.952-07:00 Disappointment Cleaver Conditions Update 7/4/23<p><span style="text-indent: 48px; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;"> Rangers stationed at Camp Muir were able to get out and climb the route a few times over the BUSY July 4th weekend. Below we’ll highlight conditions as of July 4th but please understand that the mountain is an extremely dynamic environment. Rangers who climbed both Monday morning and Tuesday evening noticed route changes and crevasse openings that were not present the day before. Please use this update as a data point of information for your climb…</span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPs4ehfBsqmL_yvAtVX97m8eRZKD-aNOUgbZvDM0fjiLaL2MkVSAhYG-RVgfU_ILn-Y1BXumSdRFQ8Ec5GIMpXaYQW2xO1oUzdWO7RNyUu-9cg0wT0D9ZffHH9Sl8uHeWsCxDEMFNT4fgKHnrBAqVL-eZCxZiEN_ZKJqdpR82KUtYu1PPQfAFc/s4032/IMG-7690.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPs4ehfBsqmL_yvAtVX97m8eRZKD-aNOUgbZvDM0fjiLaL2MkVSAhYG-RVgfU_ILn-Y1BXumSdRFQ8Ec5GIMpXaYQW2xO1oUzdWO7RNyUu-9cg0wT0D9ZffHH9Sl8uHeWsCxDEMFNT4fgKHnrBAqVL-eZCxZiEN_ZKJqdpR82KUtYu1PPQfAFc/w640-h480/IMG-7690.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;">Old trenched-in trail leading left to crevasse that is rapidly opening up. A faint new trail to the right leads over a <i>currently</i> solid bridge for that crevasse. 7/4/2023</span><div style="text-align: left;"><div><span style="font-family: times;"> </span> </div></div></td></tr></tbody></table><span id="docs-internal-guid-6ce176c0-7fff-80dd-fbdf-0534e53eaed6"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 36pt;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><div><span style="font-family: times;">The route itself remains very “punched in”. There has been significant traffic between guide parties and independent teams alike, creating a trough at certain points leading to the summit. As mentioned earlier there are subtleties within the greater climb that are constantly evolving and presenting new hazards, but in general, the climbing route is in good shape. </span></div><div><ul><li><span style="text-indent: 36pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-family: times;">As mentioned in earlier blog posts, Cathedral Gap is snow free and by now the Cleaver itself is snow free. We ask again that you please mitigate your team’s risk by not breaking underneath overhead exposure, shorten your the rope for travel in the rocks, and always wear your helmets.</span></span></li></ul><ul><li><span style="font-family: times;">At high crack (just above Ingraham Flats) there remains a ladder that is both short and well placed. Use caution while crossing by having good rope spacing and communication. </span></li></ul><ul><li><span style="font-family: times;">Getting onto the backboard of the cleaver is fairly straightforward, though there is a significant bridge you cross just before you get onto the cleaver. When this goes, the transition to get onto the cleaver will likely become challenging, but for now, with good footwork and rope management, the entrance remains simple. The handline here is gone. Please don’t break in this zone until you are on the spine of the cleaver, free of overhead hazard! The trail along the spine is snow free aside from a small patch here and there. </span></li></ul><ul><li><span style="font-family: times;">Above the cleaver the route “zigzags” its way through icefall and crevasses until roughly 13,400 when the route traverses left almost all the way to the Nisqually! A pleasant break for tired legs but be prepared for the climb to be very direct after finishing the traverse. </span></li></ul><div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div></div></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOHT66rFONIHsts3alVk4YRYuGXTDh1CymnDB47qmXLqjgVIy_-NP511E0Za7hF1zax0RFdcL5XleiW34OzW9CI-AfsSQ7KirH5XtNrPZAknfHEUC-s_9CoDx9_vX9MRilcDaiLpQNlf4FKHhdL99mLt2_kTSEWvqy22sZ4Sb5_rRJs416PH8p/s4032/IMG-7674.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOHT66rFONIHsts3alVk4YRYuGXTDh1CymnDB47qmXLqjgVIy_-NP511E0Za7hF1zax0RFdcL5XleiW34OzW9CI-AfsSQ7KirH5XtNrPZAknfHEUC-s_9CoDx9_vX9MRilcDaiLpQNlf4FKHhdL99mLt2_kTSEWvqy22sZ4Sb5_rRJs416PH8p/w480-h640/IMG-7674.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: times;">View of the switchbacks though crevasses above the cleaver</span></i></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></i></div><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">While the route is quite obvious and well-traveled as stated before, we like to remind folks that the trough is not always the best travel! Use YOUR discretion and safe judgement skills but understand that getting out of the trough trail, especially through bottlenecking chokepoints on the route is ok. With the ever-changing conditions on the route, sometimes the best way to cross a crevasse is to walk 20ft off the trail and around rather than leaping over a gaping crack! </span></p><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: times; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Those are the conditions as of right now on the DC! Teams have been enjoying stellar weather and good travel as of lately. Remember to check back periodically with our blog on condition updates and reread through past posts to review skill topics, tips, and tricks for safe climbing!</span></p><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></div></span>Thomas Lindleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06468023317310004649noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-29887362475827297112023-06-30T21:36:00.003-07:002023-07-01T14:03:51.883-07:00Upper Mountain Skiing Considerations: 4th of July Weekend<p>Howdy folks, we’ve got a few things for y’all to think on who are considering bringing skis up this holiday weekend. We have seen a lot of folks attempt to ski the Emmons this past week and it has put the rangers climbing beneath them on edge.</p><p>It is full summer on the upper mountain. It's highly variable and dangerous ski conditions. There are few to no planar surfaces. Climbers descending by foot have been beating skiers down the mountain. This is not the place for skiing just for the sake of skiing. We want to see everyone have a safe and enjoyable time this week, and skiing is not the ideal tool for current conditions.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_V9e9rlNdBd-YBysdp-FXaDd_8aRu4wBik4NUcBCO_SLGQGSAxiD4fK7nCpFgi9zFeydD1sW2AHisEVnXOWLWqWZSTjlcBXuA2WZrgd39En8sKr30_aqKQNC5_U6QjwmH8p130oP9y3_fq-rMrDtXphXnLPwdG3baxHrp2Ae7_XbBCOilPR3TQg/s4032/825A6129-4A14-4AFE-9C4A-769B1E5E3709.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="363" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_V9e9rlNdBd-YBysdp-FXaDd_8aRu4wBik4NUcBCO_SLGQGSAxiD4fK7nCpFgi9zFeydD1sW2AHisEVnXOWLWqWZSTjlcBXuA2WZrgd39En8sKr30_aqKQNC5_U6QjwmH8p130oP9y3_fq-rMrDtXphXnLPwdG3baxHrp2Ae7_XbBCOilPR3TQg/w272-h363/825A6129-4A14-4AFE-9C4A-769B1E5E3709.jpeg" width="272" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Emmons on 6/30.</td></tr></tbody></table><p>All in all, we are strongly recommending AGAINST skiing this weekend or the rest of summer. If you’re really fiending for some turns, there’s a few left on the Inter or Muir snowfield.</p><p>Considerations if you are still bringing skis above 10k:</p><p>Remember that falling on the Emmons is not an option. We have had serious injuries and death from skiers catching the wrong edge.</p><p>Rangers have been observing skiers side-slipping the bootpack as their descent. This creates overhead hazard for the parties below you, both you as a fall hazard and the snow and ice you’re sending down towards others. This also destroys the bootpack, and that’s pretty rude. </p><p>Please make turns as far away from other climbers as possible. Rangers have also been observing skiers skiing far too quickly and close to climbers on foot. Please be considerate of climbers on foot, both ascending and descending. They have the right of way. </p><p>If your only safe ski descent option is the bootpack, it’s a sign that ski season is over. Please recognize when travel by foot is the safest and most effective way to descend. </p><p>It is looking like a sunny holiday weekend and camps are full or filling up. Please remember to respect other climbers and enjoy the opportunity of being on the mountain and in wilderness. </p><p><br /></p>Climbing Rangerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05506675071157328598noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-51109405844880236062023-06-30T21:02:00.003-07:002023-07-01T14:03:16.579-07:00Emmons-Winthrop 6/24<p>We've moved into some typical summer weather, and the past week has brought lots of sunny mornings and grumbly, thundery afternoons.</p><p>Climbers continue to visit through at Camp Schurman, and things are certainly looking like they'll be busy on the mountain this weekend. Remember that everyone else you see is there because they love the same things you do. Keep up that patience and positivity on the route in the early hours of the morning.</p><p><b>Conditions:</b></p><p>The Emmons-Winthrop route has been seeing a slightly slower melt out than what we're seeing on the Muir side. That being said that little bit of new snow we saw last week has long since melted away and isn't a factor at this point. Most climbers seem to be taking a route similar to that which we <a href="https://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2023/06/emmons-winthrop-617.html">posted about back on 6/17</a>, but there are many different boot packs in play, so making your own calls about where to tread is always good. Crossings were in good shape when rangers climbed again on 6/24, but some time has passed, and we are entering a period of warming.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1GNch7VVkDT7YGnxZNKy04rcXgFVQX6Q5tN22UP9wutnY5sxTxsewCQr7_wKevwXUhKev-pl7Ctu1Cp-bgdXAiL71jpnzJ_S_sanu2jBtKfmYBi9w3kPVs795u-I04fAUQr7-5Qp7XATKCV_GErpwWGOr-wJmrdQ07laeWzcD3obLoWGFEX5D/s4032/IMG-6292.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1GNch7VVkDT7YGnxZNKy04rcXgFVQX6Q5tN22UP9wutnY5sxTxsewCQr7_wKevwXUhKev-pl7Ctu1Cp-bgdXAiL71jpnzJ_S_sanu2jBtKfmYBi9w3kPVs795u-I04fAUQr7-5Qp7XATKCV_GErpwWGOr-wJmrdQ07laeWzcD3obLoWGFEX5D/s320/IMG-6292.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little Tahoma, with the shadow of the mountain overhead</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Views from Camp Schurman remain impeccable!</p><p>Also, a side note: we had a rescue up on the mountain last week wherein an exceptionally well-prepared party was able to take great care of their friend in a way that made all the difference. Travelling light is important, but we always recommend taking along enough gear with each party that you could hunker down, stay warm, and make water if you need to.</p><p><br /></p>Climbing Rangerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02856722918069818636noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-23335750258711927762023-06-28T22:27:00.001-07:002023-07-01T14:02:54.991-07:00Muir Public Shelter and Trash<p><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 15.4px;">The emergency shelter at Camp Muir is a welcome resource for climbers and hikers who find themselves at Camp Muir and need a brief respite from difficult weather conditions. However, as we move into the busy part of the Rainier climbing </span><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 15.4px;">season,</span><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 15.4px;"> we are seeing </span><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 15.4px;">a</span><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 15.4px;"> spike in the amount of waste left behind and scattered about Camp Muir. As a reminder - every item brought up the mountain with you must leave the mountain with you. Rangers removed 25 </span><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 15.4px;">lbs.</span><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 15.4px;"> of waste from the public shelter, food storage bins outside the shelter and various places around camp this past weekend. </span></p><p><span style="background-color: white;"><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm4BY3-UL5Mg1THMeHJisMb1fj7whhwQ5w24XuSgjWm5lAqILengxp8Wnq9-svzscT5ALiJVl90DuJCOKd6VfaDxQbBbQZoZo8Ll20nIqSAQ1HIrMKDwTKjCeaP5PAD0RDS3Mi0-LpHaLT9WZ7jlHBanF-sluO8iNLxyTIINpBY47aFQFY8GG8/s4032/unnamed.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="xvfsfddsf" border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm4BY3-UL5Mg1THMeHJisMb1fj7whhwQ5w24XuSgjWm5lAqILengxp8Wnq9-svzscT5ALiJVl90DuJCOKd6VfaDxQbBbQZoZo8Ll20nIqSAQ1HIrMKDwTKjCeaP5PAD0RDS3Mi0-LpHaLT9WZ7jlHBanF-sluO8iNLxyTIINpBY47aFQFY8GG8/w320-h240/unnamed.jpg" title="Trash left behind after a weekend of climbers at Camp Muir" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A pile of trash from a busy weekend at Camp Muir</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><ul style="background-color: #e3e3e3; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.4px; line-height: 1.4; margin: 0.5em 0px; padding: 0px 2.5em; text-align: center;"><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><b>Emergency Use.</b> The primary use of this shelter is as an emergency shelter. On a space-available basis, users are welcome to sleep in it. Please remember the sad stories over the years where climbers who were in need of shelter, found their way to the hut during a storm, discovered it was full, and decided to descend and never made it back to Paradise. If you are occupying the shelter, <i>you</i> are the host. Please welcome all folks into the hut, especially when the weather is poor or the condition of the folks look like they need it.</li><br /><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><b>BYOB.</b> Bring your own bivy or tent. There are no reservations for the public shelter, so park employees can't guarantee you a spot. It fits about 25 people comfortably, and even more during a storm. Make sure you are conscious about how much space your stuff is taking up when there are a lot of people who want to stay in the public shelter.</li><br /><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><b>Leave the shelter nicer than you found it</b>. That means leaving none of your trash, half eaten food, and/or untouched food. People seem to think they are doing others a favor by leaving food, but people don't eat things when they have no idea where it came from. At best it all gets thrown out and it's a terrible waste. At worst, it starts a habituated wildlife problem and attracts mice who then learn to eat through packs to get all those tasty energy bars. Think about giving the hut a quick sweep before you go and wiping down the counter after you use it.</li><br /><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><b>Label your food and put it in the bear boxes next to the shelter if you are stashing it for a climb. </b>Be sure to have your name and the date you are due out on your bag of food. And when you head down from camp, bring everything with you. Leave nothing.</li><br /><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><b>Be courteous to other public shelter users. </b>Many are climbers that go to bed early to wake up very early. Please keep things quiet in the evenings. If you are a light sleeper, bring earplugs so you don't get woken up as easily and get grouchy. Pack out ALL your trash, food, food scraps, clothes, and gear. Double check the shelter and outside it so you don't forget anything.</li></ul><div><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 15.4px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgs64e3aDsbB41n29JEgcUUrRW1VnTf7TBjSd1BsByNXsyIEhvQUK827uxHX-rRnjyBcyMuIU7S2ivV7lSWHbjy96LOPuJcfHg_vr0dInS5pNyezyhAIj8BKeU7kUnxOY-T313HO7x4dwUY_K-no6s7v0SBQBbUC_QzSpdJjVVypBCFzG4kgSPg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgs64e3aDsbB41n29JEgcUUrRW1VnTf7TBjSd1BsByNXsyIEhvQUK827uxHX-rRnjyBcyMuIU7S2ivV7lSWHbjy96LOPuJcfHg_vr0dInS5pNyezyhAIj8BKeU7kUnxOY-T313HO7x4dwUY_K-no6s7v0SBQBbUC_QzSpdJjVVypBCFzG4kgSPg=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 15.4px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 15.4px;"><br /><br /></span></span></div>Peter Terwilligerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01771902708188773124noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-38208794177789061252023-06-24T15:15:00.002-07:002023-06-25T09:17:41.867-07:00Emmons-Winthrop 6/17<p> </p><p>Climbing rangers climbed the Emmons-Winthrop Route on 6/17. There were a couple of variations to the trail that climbing parties were taking. The rangers took the path that seemed the most traveled. This proved to be longer than the earlier variations this season, though it made for easier travel and looked like it offered the most solid bridges. They end ran cracks at about 12,300 and 13,600. The direct line to the summit from around 13,400 appeared to still go. It would be a bit steeper and more hollow, so parties should be carefully assessing every bridge. Be willing to back track if the route does not appear to be solid enough. Remember that it is a very dynamic environment on the upper mountain, and things can change rapidly within the period of your climb. <br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhOoRaMWHOsM1-TF7BVSmVAuUoWYP4QUOIt9ynxJ_fg5rayHSSfgQ1LcW1iUA0zIBoleyORKTrz4iZLyBgQ2dUGpf2w3NqKFXa2-Qj4RIiCyjwCBuO26Mr_OXSvq4i2ha-qIxRfxgmAeEMhBw1Mid5pbpfXXQ7OnrCFuqah-foBEak4qBndj7k7vw" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img data-original-height="1956" data-original-width="2420" height="517" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhOoRaMWHOsM1-TF7BVSmVAuUoWYP4QUOIt9ynxJ_fg5rayHSSfgQ1LcW1iUA0zIBoleyORKTrz4iZLyBgQ2dUGpf2w3NqKFXa2-Qj4RIiCyjwCBuO26Mr_OXSvq4i2ha-qIxRfxgmAeEMhBw1Mid5pbpfXXQ7OnrCFuqah-foBEak4qBndj7k7vw=w640-h517" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The route the Rangers took on 6/17<br /><span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr></tbody></table><div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxEhKbhrRnx0-60iPoqRIKBuxiQw6Z73HmLFQMjZMkaECSSzlGikcDW6AI2TZlzCCTeAN_-6QYVNKFffXgkOU7GmTsM6LsKMUu8wggfG4iCwopg7ktdcgY-M5oP7a1VpAflENPms21q_8mJ_zGff6A5QNbSUO1mTDO5l8iWaWjwgV1qlR3ry3IaQ/s4000/06D6ACD2-8E8B-45E7-B199-FCA955DAB930.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxEhKbhrRnx0-60iPoqRIKBuxiQw6Z73HmLFQMjZMkaECSSzlGikcDW6AI2TZlzCCTeAN_-6QYVNKFffXgkOU7GmTsM6LsKMUu8wggfG4iCwopg7ktdcgY-M5oP7a1VpAflENPms21q_8mJ_zGff6A5QNbSUO1mTDO5l8iWaWjwgV1qlR3ry3IaQ/w640-h480/06D6ACD2-8E8B-45E7-B199-FCA955DAB930.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbers descending the Corridor on the Emmons-Winthrop Route</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>By Sunday evening, winter had fully returned to the upper mountain, with 5 inches of snow at Camp Schurman. There appeared to be a few inches on the upper mountain. On one stormy night, a party camping on the rocks at Camp Schurman had their tent poles broken due to driving wind and snow. Be sure to bring a solid winter tent when the weather is not in stable, high pressure conditions. Additionally, consider having a good repair kit. It is worth noting that parties camped on the snow, and sheltered from the wind by said rock ridge, did not seem to have issues. As the snow recedes more at Schurman and the glaciers around camp become more broken, we do start allowing folks to camp on the rocks. Please be sure that you are at least 100 feet from the helipad. Make sure to consider the winds you may encounter and how much more exposed you will be on a ridge.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgckKfyIKNLdFcOOZSuzmqoakNdg8ajfly2poCZwKZPVnfVHys9EMQEq1rwkV28oyn6yYOHSXfOm8w9aYckZGhnmxEqmUlsSWvUsekq6bjf5y7oPxudvnjWG5RfyB0dPILnp02OKHDK2B5_gVazZUdkfzpzaQece3PYpVA5XQVENKSQ6WXPcbyRbg/s4000/044BD9DB-F50C-4A53-BD55-3954730CF000.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgckKfyIKNLdFcOOZSuzmqoakNdg8ajfly2poCZwKZPVnfVHys9EMQEq1rwkV28oyn6yYOHSXfOm8w9aYckZGhnmxEqmUlsSWvUsekq6bjf5y7oPxudvnjWG5RfyB0dPILnp02OKHDK2B5_gVazZUdkfzpzaQece3PYpVA5XQVENKSQ6WXPcbyRbg/w640-h480/044BD9DB-F50C-4A53-BD55-3954730CF000.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The traverse to the saddle between Liberty Cap and Columbia Crest</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJh0h774VdN_C4Tax6odQjjXhZqdGENH7rWbSyMmYs5cD5K8Euwc_sex9Hnge8kRzWApfSsg42yxVt75u5xkiIlIvo_2uYLaW-YtijL2-NkBcdX0-XcU6_Bq_VlUKG9okWinnDUhffZeAlp3ChJl1EDg_9ZcCAKnYsVz_9vXJp-LltgIA0z5JjFA/s4000/047EDAFC-F52E-4678-AC4E-4B27EC9776FA.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJh0h774VdN_C4Tax6odQjjXhZqdGENH7rWbSyMmYs5cD5K8Euwc_sex9Hnge8kRzWApfSsg42yxVt75u5xkiIlIvo_2uYLaW-YtijL2-NkBcdX0-XcU6_Bq_VlUKG9okWinnDUhffZeAlp3ChJl1EDg_9ZcCAKnYsVz_9vXJp-LltgIA0z5JjFA/w480-h640/047EDAFC-F52E-4678-AC4E-4B27EC9776FA.jpeg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A traverse on the route around 12,300 ft.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw5SuuOwYMQGqPj1FZiF7wYhOtyykT_3S9uE_rF5TUJaDb_ln7diPoUF_9cNz0Kr4ykz4Fs7Gu1nQXIC04gHJo5dV2KpW9HzIx1nZpwUaUZkHTeksaxxB_IIhg4mp7XGdn_NaFmJkmnu3SG1OCbIO5F6juJPqyMaiDDUf_7WLeFoB7oXCbF-c9bw/s4000/A047C48C-EDB5-44B8-A159-3199C6A8C5E1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw5SuuOwYMQGqPj1FZiF7wYhOtyykT_3S9uE_rF5TUJaDb_ln7diPoUF_9cNz0Kr4ykz4Fs7Gu1nQXIC04gHJo5dV2KpW9HzIx1nZpwUaUZkHTeksaxxB_IIhg4mp7XGdn_NaFmJkmnu3SG1OCbIO5F6juJPqyMaiDDUf_7WLeFoB7oXCbF-c9bw/w640-h480/A047C48C-EDB5-44B8-A159-3199C6A8C5E1.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A snow bridge covered from a dusting of fresh snow from Friday 6/16</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /><p></p><p><br /></p></div></div>Kathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01753501928544312146noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-10441280302969270082023-06-23T09:57:00.001-07:002023-07-01T14:04:17.494-07:00Disappointment Cleaver Updates 06/22<p style="text-align: left;">June-uary delivered a much-needed refresh to the mountain
this week. The upper mountain remained above the clouds for most of the weather, but the Paradise
side still saw 2-4” of new snow above Camp Muir.</p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB-I42MwyWQsG38ZFbtnD_JsAyAG2gk8km7Mek8VhVTFCWH5213HKVKjIIpMNeTMkhoPdDkvmZxbd7Jg8xatDU0O-9x_yIhqwPWl4j1gShvTZFCSWwtRhAzymmwRY1YvHylMqTYZqMiqKKO9WkILfMDGQDYGCpGaA8FIOxaVteqRguKY9rkrUUvg/s4032/ED21B9CD-BAAF-4142-84FB-1360BD57F650.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="393" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB-I42MwyWQsG38ZFbtnD_JsAyAG2gk8km7Mek8VhVTFCWH5213HKVKjIIpMNeTMkhoPdDkvmZxbd7Jg8xatDU0O-9x_yIhqwPWl4j1gShvTZFCSWwtRhAzymmwRY1YvHylMqTYZqMiqKKO9WkILfMDGQDYGCpGaA8FIOxaVteqRguKY9rkrUUvg/w295-h393/ED21B9CD-BAAF-4142-84FB-1360BD57F650.jpeg" width="295" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Looking towards Muir from across the Cowlitz after the new snowfall. About 2" blankets the glacier. 06/20.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> The route is still well-wanded and
well-maintained. Be sure to thank the guides for their route work. <p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVCfqc_ErEuDSFVYIeDVQ1YEXg5sCyvzGYfxGWWaDl9WuYL5kcZ9S26hUTTw3Pu8ugaasAxvmi88EcRV9_UCT57Op_gBi-Ugzy48S1JDAxOrCM8-RvdpOQqWpmPdQf1qx1ylb_7C7ny-7EvfPC11s7rqShSHnB0OBPDjnszEPkiEdFNC4P1D3LnA/s2016/IMG_5749.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVCfqc_ErEuDSFVYIeDVQ1YEXg5sCyvzGYfxGWWaDl9WuYL5kcZ9S26hUTTw3Pu8ugaasAxvmi88EcRV9_UCT57Op_gBi-Ugzy48S1JDAxOrCM8-RvdpOQqWpmPdQf1qx1ylb_7C7ny-7EvfPC11s7rqShSHnB0OBPDjnszEPkiEdFNC4P1D3LnA/w380-h285/IMG_5749.JPG" width="380" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The route around 13000' before the recent snow. 06/17.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">Handlines are
in place to protect sections of the route with high-consequence falls. While it
can be helpful to utilize the handline to increase your security, know that it
is still your responsibility to evaluate the snow anchors holding the line, or
any adjunct, into the mountain. These are currently set up on the north end of
the Bowling Alley, and in a steep section around 13600’. As always, the established
boot pack may not be the best route after changing conditions. Assess conditions
and choose your route accordingly.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Xd1T4XwZh4AE5Qj4oqU6R5gZuQ8KtT2IfGEzHWerZs5fO4KS3KQuvauDT_kKvCjK2jMP_vAE7JUGxHPzKkT_-s3fTOYCU9vZ0AKDqKYEu5VyQPpyoi1AnXyO8shJIP0MjRrulBfivUKLb888x5Xnvr_0OZVxMwFLRtOQCCSkPgjVa1YFyqFVLQ/s1194/IMG_5758.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1194" data-original-width="750" height="465" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Xd1T4XwZh4AE5Qj4oqU6R5gZuQ8KtT2IfGEzHWerZs5fO4KS3KQuvauDT_kKvCjK2jMP_vAE7JUGxHPzKkT_-s3fTOYCU9vZ0AKDqKYEu5VyQPpyoi1AnXyO8shJIP0MjRrulBfivUKLb888x5Xnvr_0OZVxMwFLRtOQCCSkPgjVa1YFyqFVLQ/w292-h465/IMG_5758.jpg" width="292" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Track from the Rangers' climb on 06/17</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><b>CLEAVER CONSIDERATIONS:</b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Proper rope management is required. If
loose rock is present – get that rope off the ground! There are many ways to safely and properly manage the rope in these situations. Letting the rope drag
along the ground is a guaranteed way to knock rocks down onto climbers below
you. If you see teams traveling in full glacier intervals along the Cleaver,
say something.</span></li><li style="text-align: left;">To crampon or not to crampon? Previous sun and high
freezing levels created bare and dry travel conditions on loose rock. In these
cases, crampon use can hinder safe movement. The points of your crampons are
hard to balance on uneven terrain and increase the likelihood of a trip and
fall. Save those ankles! Take the time to remove crampons on longer sections of
exposed rock. However, even when rocks appear to be bare and snow free, ice can
still linger and create slick travel surfaces that require crampons. With the
new moisture input this past week, this could be the case in the early mornings
and on cold days. Always assess conditions and decide accordingly. </li></ul><div style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi6vAE0oQFlCvLZjekTtVee8iSMeQp1wx7tdavmGBnmwu5yA0L7eYYatdJhEMKUIJX3aINlH7pg1wwiXiBQEYKYMA7ocTCQSMmvISOGlqZkBadSeTR1lT7m7N0MNw1OCFnWwx3M3H-9_Sn2jOydynoZgb56_6TImm-xyGa0Iq3UhE4GE0SfCUSj6Q" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="439" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi6vAE0oQFlCvLZjekTtVee8iSMeQp1wx7tdavmGBnmwu5yA0L7eYYatdJhEMKUIJX3aINlH7pg1wwiXiBQEYKYMA7ocTCQSMmvISOGlqZkBadSeTR1lT7m7N0MNw1OCFnWwx3M3H-9_Sn2jOydynoZgb56_6TImm-xyGa0Iq3UhE4GE0SfCUSj6Q=w330-h439" width="330" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Midway up the Cleaver. 06/13/23</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><p></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="text-align: left; text-indent: -0.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><b>STAY TOGETHER.</b> Too many parties have been splitting up recently. This is how many of our rescues start. You are a team. Do not leave a member of your party who cannot continue alone while the other climbers summit. Do not go off alone to tag the summit if the rest of your team cannot make it. If you leave your rope team, you are now a solo climber. Solo travel requires a special application.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><o:p>All in all, the route is direct and in great shape. Be safe and have fun!</o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><b>Route and Weather Resources:</b><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/Disappointment-Cleaver-Routebrief-2017_FINAL.pdf">Disappointment
Cleaver Route Guide (nps.gov)</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://a.atmos.washington.edu/data/rainier_report.html">Mt Rainier
Recreational Forecast (washington.edu)</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-121.71718597412111&lat=46.83270634678669">7-Day
Forecast 46.83N 121.71W (weather.gov)</a><o:p></o:p></p></div><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>Climbing Rangerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05506675071157328598noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-15287307441221744252023-06-15T16:48:00.002-07:002023-06-16T17:39:42.499-07:00Rope Management on the DC & Conditions Update 6/13/23<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-5iwssVpoU3NdhVCHpaXG8BQQaeOeCW5F4qV3Uli1IBQP3qzf7xVgANa6e573aN_QBlfN_CTYSA4gV6CxKC_qmqsCcYmIWKJBFRV1eyib69fgefbUWQlFunVhwLpaRY-Rrzkc49lknxvb5Y6JZis8iDXlQcJcFsQHXgbMGCTI8qBub6hfLw/s4032/cleaver%20full.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="648" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-5iwssVpoU3NdhVCHpaXG8BQQaeOeCW5F4qV3Uli1IBQP3qzf7xVgANa6e573aN_QBlfN_CTYSA4gV6CxKC_qmqsCcYmIWKJBFRV1eyib69fgefbUWQlFunVhwLpaRY-Rrzkc49lknxvb5Y6JZis8iDXlQcJcFsQHXgbMGCTI8qBub6hfLw/w486-h648/cleaver%20full.jpg" width="486" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: small;">View of the Disappointment Cleaver (dark rocky cliff band) from Dunn's Roll. </i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: small;">6/13/23</i></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On both of their climbs to the summit via the Disappointment Cleaver route on 6/11 and 6/13, Rangers observed a number of parties unsure of how best to manage their rope when climbing up the cleaver itself. This can be a concerning safety hazard. For those who may not know, a "cleaver" is a rock-based formation that splits the unified flow of glacial ice in two. A cleaver resembles a meat cleaver, slicing a larger piece of meat in two — that's what a cleaver does to a glacier on a mountain! The DC Route leaves Camp Muir across the Cowlitz Glacier over Cathedral Gap, then traverses under the Ice Box, through the Bowling Alley, to reach the Disappointment Cleaver itself. After ascending the cleaver, the DC more or less shares terrain with the <a href="http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2023/05/muir-snowfield-and-ingraham-direct-523.html">Ingraham Direct </a>on the rest of the upper mountain to the summit. The surface of the Disappointment Cleaver is currently loose, small to medium sized talus with some larger boulders, and dirt. There are still two sections of snow coverage.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzLjJtUl7B_eJgbUeSm2EfdchmRDb8uCThu-yR-yKfUaQqfGEkgx7BlvDRspF2md4J32XyjjXRU_o8bvxHKqlHMKm2MT5QTyTq3Ni3OxdVeP98pRLLQkgz15_TwtDlHbZEjvKYYZq2QmnUPjTqFeiJmUk1qWaNEmuHCUYTG0UkMGaAKfvuTA/s4032/bowling%20alley.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="421" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzLjJtUl7B_eJgbUeSm2EfdchmRDb8uCThu-yR-yKfUaQqfGEkgx7BlvDRspF2md4J32XyjjXRU_o8bvxHKqlHMKm2MT5QTyTq3Ni3OxdVeP98pRLLQkgz15_TwtDlHbZEjvKYYZq2QmnUPjTqFeiJmUk1qWaNEmuHCUYTG0UkMGaAKfvuTA/w562-h421/bowling%20alley.jpg" width="562" /></a><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>The traverse from Ingraham Flats underneath the Ice Box, through the Bowling Alley, to gain the Disappointment Cleaver. </i></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>6/11/23</i></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Rope Management on the Cleaver</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With the current lack of snow on the Disappointment Cleaver, rocks that were once frozen into the hillside are now free from ice and able to transport down the slope. While ascending the cleaver, managing movement over the rock must be balanced with managing the rope. How your rope interacts with the landscape is paramount to both your and other climbers' safety. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNw-idm4mrhxGk05mY_8eycpP7hrX-BaxEzJi2g4ij8G27VTV_XWRM251fvTKXRdXmZmsBvXbWuz16DBZ27qH7bh5nRJ7d2RKVcxwKX4wjxKXgEb6C4XjnIU3p1b3wI1fhLQO2yS02471P3F5uGKvfnjnrdteco82mfcsX3weYVv-kXom7Ow/s4032/cleaver%20down.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNw-idm4mrhxGk05mY_8eycpP7hrX-BaxEzJi2g4ij8G27VTV_XWRM251fvTKXRdXmZmsBvXbWuz16DBZ27qH7bh5nRJ7d2RKVcxwKX4wjxKXgEb6C4XjnIU3p1b3wI1fhLQO2yS02471P3F5uGKvfnjnrdteco82mfcsX3weYVv-kXom7Ow/w480-h640/cleaver%20down.jpg" width="480" /></a><br /><i style="font-size: small;">Looking down towards Little Tahoma from midway up the cleaver. Loose rocks of all shapes and sizes abound! </i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: small;">6/13/23</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The bottom line is that while you are traveling on the cleaver, the rope between you and the other members of your rope team needs to be kept off the ground. With no rope dragging on the ground, the risk of rocks being flossed downhill (towards other climbers) is significantly decreased. One way to achieve this is for members of your team to each pick up the length of rope between one another, and carry coils in hand. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Current Route Conditions & Hazards</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">At this time, the DC follows a direct, well-defined line with snow bridges granting passage over most significant crevasses. That said, timing and surface conditions can change the integrity of snow bridges significantly. With consistently high freezing levels, and with the route facing a solar aspect, the mountain is constantly in flux. It is common for snow bridges that were substantial and trustworthy in the early morning, cold conditions to lose integrity throughout the day. <i style="text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration: underline;">Timing</i> and <i style="text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration: underline;">situational awareness</i> are key terms to understanding strategic glacier travel, and the DC is no exception. Remember, despite the obvious nature of the established route, the conditions are <i>always changing</i>. Your safety is in your hands!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHEErw4sZli76ERz8lmoqCDSIGwOCDE76iybXGlQLyLiRJmtApjhLvQL7eKI5CcxJwQLVyNCoPSDDeEVvhODmnj9tsY8nDbbv2X3tevF7U8XCFfrke1FrbNq92dfse6-OyKSnvBrDHpDuKRkJ-NZFFLwdKC9s2si3Q3br1KEoWYcIhZjlM6g/s1381/IMG_6133.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1381" data-original-width="1170" height="451" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHEErw4sZli76ERz8lmoqCDSIGwOCDE76iybXGlQLyLiRJmtApjhLvQL7eKI5CcxJwQLVyNCoPSDDeEVvhODmnj9tsY8nDbbv2X3tevF7U8XCFfrke1FrbNq92dfse6-OyKSnvBrDHpDuKRkJ-NZFFLwdKC9s2si3Q3br1KEoWYcIhZjlM6g/w382-h451/IMG_6133.jpg" width="382" /></a><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Track from the Rangers' most recent climb of the DC on 6/13/23</i></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Notable route updates from our <a href="https://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2023/06/disappointment-cleaver-update-64.html">last post </a>include:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><i><u>Rock & icefall:</u></i> Rangers observed icefall from the ice cliffs at 12,500 ft adjacent to the DC on 6/13. Even with good timing descending the mountain early in the day, it is important to be situationally aware. Moving quickly through terrain with objective overhead hazard like large seracs, loose rocks, etc. is key to increasing your safety margin. Pause to take breaks elsewhere!<br /><br /></li><ul><li>On this note, the <b>Ice Box </b>and <b>Bowling Alley</b> have large overhead hazards and should be moved through as quickly as possible. Unclear on where these portions of the route are? <a href="chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/Disappointment-Cleaver-Routebrief-2017_FINAL.pdf">Check out pages 18-19 on the Official NPS Route Description</a><br /><br /></li></ul><li><u style="font-style: italic;">Handline:</u> There is currently a fixed line from the northern edge of the Bowling Alley on the steep snow traverse to the base of the cleaver. A handline is a fixed piece of rope that is anchored into the snow to assist you as you travel across a steep and/or exposed section of a route with fall consequence. <b>While it can be helpful to utilize the handline to increase your security on the traverse, know that it is still your responsibility to evaluate the snow anchors holding the line, or any adjunct, into the mountain. </b>Just like snow bridges, snow anchors that remain over long periods of time will have different strengths at different time depending on temperatures and other factors like the snow they are placed in. Guides evaluate this for their clients, so be sure to make this evaluation for yourself!<br /><br /></li><li><u style="font-style: italic;">Cleaver snow coverage</u>: The surface of the Disappointment Cleaver is currently loose, small to medium sized talus with some larger boulders and dirt. Two sections of snow coverage remain. </li></ul></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgod2cfW0D8qmTUbOXXLSMakhJfcV3KnF216czw6YEQW-lcfaVdTsBoJ2xVvdk70G0B3oeiMl5m0Zg529uj2NnlJegqDUlORJmk-xGyZEMq7al-JxbuiQ3Jm6uPot7SAa0Ujeni3-NvvqTam8MxBfSQ2Vs2hR2c2O8msxcUhqYshg7BbYgYhw/s4032/IMG_6070.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="660" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgod2cfW0D8qmTUbOXXLSMakhJfcV3KnF216czw6YEQW-lcfaVdTsBoJ2xVvdk70G0B3oeiMl5m0Zg529uj2NnlJegqDUlORJmk-xGyZEMq7al-JxbuiQ3Jm6uPot7SAa0Ujeni3-NvvqTam8MxBfSQ2Vs2hR2c2O8msxcUhqYshg7BbYgYhw/w495-h660/IMG_6070.HEIC" width="495" /></a><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">Looking back towards the Ice Box on the steep snow traverse. Notice the handline just above the bootpack. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">6/11/23</span></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>That's the Disappointment Cleaver at this point in the season folks! We look forward to seeing you out on the mountain! And be sure to thank a guide for their work on "the route"! <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div> <br /><br /><p></p>Brooke Maushundhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00372307316775998873noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-38744968414699591632023-06-14T11:02:00.003-07:002023-06-16T17:35:38.090-07:00Emmons - Winthrop Update 06-11-23<p><br /></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-4567c427-7fff-8b2e-b12b-1858f2e8ef44"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="468" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/mZPs6mPUpYjSC4kkU2EzhxkH_oIblRrVbjIGOgJXNNDmivRxzUgOc7xDGr_xHJLka5jPXCRpdLDkmAuTKjDNxX2Ek5ODKtwH9yeJsONjB9rhxSsclJ84Bi89gB2rXXGfr8_9uXJcHPrPBH-XJmgypnY" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px;" width="624" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nighttime view of the Emmons</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span><div><span><span style="font-family: inherit;">As we move into mid-June here on Mount Rainier, the Emmons-Winthrop Route is mostly still intact. The route has been seeing more skier traffic the last few weekends than boot traffic and some single push parties on the mountain. As a reminder for folks who are looking to ski/climb the route in a single push, you are still required to obtain a permit! These permits are issued by our wilderness information centers that are open from 7:30 am - 5:00 pm. See our recent blog post about </span><a href="http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2023/06/single-push-climbing-and-permits-at.html" style="font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;" target="_blank">Single Push Permitting</a><span style="font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></span><span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">From the White River Campground, the trail is completely free of snow until just above Glacier Basin. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">The Inter glacier is still skiable with the snowline starting just above Glacier Basin.</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> Continue following the Upper Glacier Basin Trail onto the Inter Glacier and climb to Camp Curtis before descending onto the Emmons glacier below Camp Schurman. </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have observed some climbing parties ascending the lower Emmons into Camp Schurmann completely unroped. This is ill advised as this terrain, like most glaciers - is heavily crevassed and an unroped fall here could have severe consequences. With warmer temperatures as we move into the summer season the risk of punching through weakening snow bridges is even higher. Please don't take snack breaks on top of snow bridges or the lips of crevasses (we have seen it happen)!</span></p></span><span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 11.3333px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgtAQs6DSGfzuZzMRxS8vcStUbcVngjRiO9fO33qaEJSUAS06I8dHVF1OAUtes3S3MA5AP4p3kiztGjqMrqPjNp9bjlQm3hnPRTkOln-gUvL1f5lye_AKwNZ5K1hmlDYrToJT6KTWH4xL5Vl3S_OEolHBIHzlbWw2v50EAhhsMjP5qDtJZJuA" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgtAQs6DSGfzuZzMRxS8vcStUbcVngjRiO9fO33qaEJSUAS06I8dHVF1OAUtes3S3MA5AP4p3kiztGjqMrqPjNp9bjlQm3hnPRTkOln-gUvL1f5lye_AKwNZ5K1hmlDYrToJT6KTWH4xL5Vl3S_OEolHBIHzlbWw2v50EAhhsMjP5qDtJZJuA=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A skier crosses a crevassed section of the lower Emmons.</td></tr></tbody></table><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The main note on the Emmons-Winthrop Route is a very large crevasse that starts around 12,300 ft. in elevation and climbs diagonally to climbers left up the shoulder. It is no longer possible to climb directly up and over this. The route goes either climbers' left or right around this crack. Trying to end run it to the right, there was a thin snow bridge that was marginally plugged with snow and most parties seem to be going this way. Going left, the crack seemed to be more filled in, though it did require some route finding and deliberate movement to manage the terrain. From here most groups continue in standard fashion up route, gaining a little over 1000 vertical feet and ending up at the saddle between the summit and Liberty Cap and trending climbers left towards the summit.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/ixzEGsT_vUzGVJEfj25cztaQYSWYkAu9y3Uk85zR24OTWjn9wT6lgItKdOWQ5kCq6Q6020ZKS9f7yKltlAQ7xmh8H8XFVJHI71v3vbSyC5t1PjDQMFH5GI-zXJyKoxlaVWSoo1TTYNLPI2gGMlL-zYo=w636-h640" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0px;" width="636" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Possible routes up the Emmons-Winthrop</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">As the season progresses, continue to closely monitor the weather on your summit bid days. Warmer temperatures and higher freezing levels increase hazard as the snowpack is not as </span></span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">consolidated as it is at cooler temperatures. When temperatures are in question, leave earlier! Avoid crossing questionable snow bridges late in the day when the snow is soft and punchy. </span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">If you haven't read it already, please check out the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/Emmons-Winthrop-Routebrief-2017_FINAL.pdf">NPS Route Briefing for the Emmons-Winthrop</a>! This is a treasure trove of information for first time climbers and experienced climbers alike!</span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span id="docs-internal-guid-51083974-7fff-14a8-5766-7cda57eea92e"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: none; display: inline-block; height: 468px; overflow: hidden; transform: rotate(4.71rad); width: 624px;"><img height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/9uykmz1-O99tiLCXgNAy9Gx3mcvoakcrNV2SrLlTZHCh2Dm5H0MAX4zy8PcNFqfKnw9b2ADaPcFKNgQTe-jz1pkq-L0i4Xgf07PnkxzpzXbaLq1OvDcjLtUeaUhQEn_qzN1lVs11VAHwG0RocB7fr0o=w640-h480" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="640" /></span></span></span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span> A view of Little Tahoma from Camp Schurman<br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></p></span><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" /></div>Peter Terwilligerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01771902708188773124noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-47981322921221097672023-06-10T11:40:00.008-07:002023-06-26T08:20:47.374-07:00Upper Mountain Skiing Considerations<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv4z7PvZyYHmR2LZMajVR9xs3scVWcfxwC0QP-xGUMLSAeEoD7qQxRu0-jgLBmIPHSI32zXZCKJN6bmVlWUfWDgTxRLT2LjuHotekn8yaHXq-RaMqec8uBo3tPGWgOMvAYusmQViRR8qd66VyKUkmMlyX9OZmjaDxYWxsDJrkTHttGOgAG9g/s4032/IMG-5259.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv4z7PvZyYHmR2LZMajVR9xs3scVWcfxwC0QP-xGUMLSAeEoD7qQxRu0-jgLBmIPHSI32zXZCKJN6bmVlWUfWDgTxRLT2LjuHotekn8yaHXq-RaMqec8uBo3tPGWgOMvAYusmQViRR8qd66VyKUkmMlyX9OZmjaDxYWxsDJrkTHttGOgAG9g/w504-h378/IMG-5259.jpg" width="504" /></a><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>The Emmons-Winthrop Glacier saw a lot of skier traffic on Memorial Day Weekend</i><br /></span><br /></div><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;">As we move into June on Mount Rainier, we are seeing a dramatic shift to summer-like conditions on all routes. In tandem with this, skier traffic on the upper mountain is hitting </span><span style="font-size: 11.3333px; white-space-collapse: preserve;">all-time</span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> highs as the skiing itself rapidly deteriorates in quality.</span><b style="font-size: 8.5pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </b><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Solar input, especially as we approach summer, can lead to conditions such as: thin and discontinuous snow that requires steep downclimbing; variable snow surfaces such as sun cups, runnels, and penitentes; open crevasses; weak </span><span style="font-size: 11.3333px; white-space-collapse: preserve;">snow bridges</span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;">; and rockfall. Ski movement ability is, perhaps, the best way to improve your safety margin from falling while skiing in the mountains. When combined, the conditions described will make a route "out of condition" even for the best of skier. Even the Muir Snowfield has discontinuous snow and is heavily sun cupped in the last 700ft to Camp Muir! Presently, the north side of the mountain is seeing less solar input and thus has more planar snow surfaces and better coverage. That said, the times are rapidly </span><span style="font-size: 11.3333px; white-space-collapse: preserve;">a 'changin</span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> due to </span><span style="font-size: 11.3333px; white-space-collapse: preserve;">consistent</span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> high freezing temperatures and sunny days.</span></span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiti103_LIIizsNExC7GrmXxKAi3IILF5_9tuMUrrcH20eSo_7KQXaXkfN_5tzRbU2civGgWky_OkIrMup6_grLcF9Vd4cExGIOvdDu2_AKdRnuneoBXCqYC7jGsnJcBB4o31aUGjWLhYn3KcZEsz9miyv_z3hHByUEvl15t64_myYrw3sJyA/s4032/IMG-6054.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="413" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiti103_LIIizsNExC7GrmXxKAi3IILF5_9tuMUrrcH20eSo_7KQXaXkfN_5tzRbU2civGgWky_OkIrMup6_grLcF9Vd4cExGIOvdDu2_AKdRnuneoBXCqYC7jGsnJcBB4o31aUGjWLhYn3KcZEsz9miyv_z3hHByUEvl15t64_myYrw3sJyA/w550-h413/IMG-6054.jpg" width="550" /></a><br /><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Sun cups on the Muir Snowfield near Camp Muir 6/10/23. Shoe for scale</span></i></div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Even if someone skied the route a week prior, remember that we are in a highly dynamic environment that is changing at a fast rate: this results in quick route changes and new crevasses opening in a matter of hours, let alone days. Not only must you possess the skills necessary to navigate through heavily crevassed terrain, but anyone skiing the mountain must possess expert skiing abilities as any unplanned fall could have severe consequences. </span></span></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-92886780-7fff-584a-25a4-b5a184cd88ef"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Rangers are observing a marked increase in skier traffic on the upper mountain in recent years, with a decrease in the movement abilities of skiers and riders. This has coincided with an increase in accidents involving skiing.</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">One constant observation that rangers are making is that the basic approach to risk management is often skewed in skiing parties.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><b><i>The two biggest misconceptions about the risks involved with skiing on Rainier are:</i></b></span></p> <br /><ul style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-inline-start: 48px;"><li aria-level="1" dir="ltr" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; list-style-type: disc; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><p dir="ltr" role="presentation" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-wrap: wrap; vertical-align: baseline;"><u style="font-style: italic;">Speed of Glacial Navigation on a Ski Descent</u><i>: </i>Since y</span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; font-style: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-wrap: wrap; vertical-align: baseline;">ou may have more days on skis annually going downhill at a resort than </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-wrap: wrap; vertical-align: baseline;">you do walking downhill with crampons on, you may be under the impression that skiing down the upper mountain will be easier </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; text-wrap: wrap;">than walking. What this perception lacks to factor in is that when you are skiing, the same glacial navigation and snow bridge </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-wrap: wrap; vertical-align: baseline;">evaluation you had to perform on the way up the mountain has to happen at over double the speed on the way down! Rangers </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; text-wrap: wrap;">have seen many close calls with skiers approaching blind, convex rolls at speed -- just barely stopping before skiing straight </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-wrap: wrap; vertical-align: baseline;">into a crevasse. In one case, a skier was observed accidentally jumping a crevasse they did not identify. When managing open </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-wrap: wrap; vertical-align: baseline;">glaciers, </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-wrap: wrap; vertical-align: baseline;"><i>slow is smooth and smooth is fast.</i></span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-wrap: wrap; vertical-align: baseline;"> So be sure to ski slow and in control, especially when you cannot see the whole line</span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt;">you are skiing.</span></p></li></ul><br /><ul style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-inline-start: 48px;"><li aria-level="1" dir="ltr" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; list-style-type: disc; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><p dir="ltr" role="presentation" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-wrap: wrap; vertical-align: baseline;"><u>Safety of Skis vs. Booting Uphill</u>: </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-wrap: wrap; vertical-align: baseline;">It is often assumed that since skis spread one's weight out over a large surface area, they are a </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; text-wrap: wrap;">safer method of travel on glaciers. This may be true for flat valley glaciers, but while ascending on steep terrain, the opposite is </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; text-wrap: wrap;">often true. The extra weight and awkwardness of skiing or snowboarding makes the endeavor more challenging and requires more </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; text-wrap: wrap;">attention paid to risk management. Variable, steep surfaces with significant fall consequences are not the place to practice </span><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; text-wrap: wrap;">“high-stakes skinning”, especially if you are new to backcountry travel. </span></p></li></ul><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Individuals considering a ski attempt on Mt. Rainier should possess significant previous experience skiing on glaciers and at altitude. While no other Cascade volcano possesses the same degree of challenge for the ski mountaineer, it is strongly recommended to have experience skiing on other peaks like Mount Baker and Mount Adams before coming to Mount Rainier. Mt. Rainier has more substantial objective hazards and complex glaciated terrain than any other mountain in the lower 48. Combine this with the unpredictability of how high altitude will affect you, and having significant previous experience to draw on will provide a much higher safety margin on any ski descent of Mt. Rainier. A</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.3333px; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> deep well of experience managing these hazards on less complex terrain should be developed before heading to Washington State's highest peak.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><b><i>Other Safety considerations for planning a ski trip on Mount Rainier:</i></b></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Team Selection</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">This is the most important factor to consider when planning a trip to Mount Rainier.</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> The vast majority of terrain on Mount Rainier can be classified as “no fall” territory. Although ski falls may be common and insignificant in a ski resort, all falls on the upper mountain are serious. Simply losing an edge can easily cascade into an unstoppable slide into an open crevasse. Reverting to side-slipping or falling-leaf technique, rather than linked turns, can help maintain control of your ski descent. </span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 8.5pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;">If anyone in your party has any doubt of their ability to safely ski the route, you must be willing to communicate that and revert to appropriate roped glacier travel techniques - this would include stashing skis low and continuing on foot. If you doubt your ski ability, consider hiring a professional to give you objective feedback in a more controlled environment such as a ski resort or less complex ski mountaineering objective.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Successfully completing a ski descent of Mount Rainier requires individuals and teams who are competent in a broad array of mountain skills. Mountaineering, glacier travel, rope techniques, navigation, and expert-level downhill skiing skills with a heavy backpack are the bare minimum.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Route Selection</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">There is no easy way to ski from the summit of Mount Rainier. All routes feature complex glacier travel, steep skiing, and long sections of no-fall terrain. Commonly attempted routes include: Emmons-Winthrop, Fuhrer Finger, Kautz Glacier, Success Couloir, and Ingraham Direct. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;">There are many excellent ski descents on the mountain that minimize exposure to crevasses, ice and rock fall, and high altitude. Descents of the Muir Snowfield, Van Trump Snowfields, The Turtle, and Inter Glacier all serve as a nice introduction to the challenges of skiing on Mount Rainier.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">One Day vs. Overnight Trips</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">An increasing number of teams opt for single day attempts; these require exceptional fitness levels. We see many teams that begin their attempt together but slowly get spread out across the upper mountain. This is unacceptable. It is crucial that team members remain within verbal and visual communication at all times. If one party member needs to stop or descend, the group should do the same. Do not leave anyone alone on the mountain. Consider a multi-day attempt so that you can begin your summit attempt rested and focused for the strenuous day ahead. Overnight trips also present better opportunities to time your descent for optimal conditions.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">No matter which strategy your party chooses you must register for your climb and pay the climbing fee. More information on that process can be found</span><a href="https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/climbing.htm" style="text-decoration-line: none; text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span><span style="color: #c1560a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">here</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Weather and Avalanche</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">When signs of current or developing snow instability are present, the best course of action is to descend immediately from your current location rather than trying to outsmart the avalanche problem. It only takes a small amount of moving snow to knock you off your feet and push you into places that have serious consequences.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Snow Surface Conditions</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">This is probably the hardest variable to predict when planning a ski descent of Rainier. Snow conditions vary widely across aspect and elevation. The upper mountain rarely features smooth snow surfaces that could be defined as “good” skiing – it is commonly “survival skiing” up high. The surface above high camps is frequently a mix of breakable wind crust, very firm wind packed snow, ice chunks, sastrugi, and refrozen snow. Expect to ski “bad snow” for some or all of every descent. </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Furthermore, it is rare that a ski descent does not require some down climbing. In many cases the decision to transition to crampons and ice axe for a short down climb can be a life-saving event. You must expect that you will need to take off your skis, rope up and climb down intermittently.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Glacier Conditions</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">As the season progresses, all potential ski descents become more challenging as crevasses open and more ice is exposed. The trend in recent years has been to attempt ski descents earlier in the season to help mitigate these hazards, though this brings increased risk of avalanches, challenging navigation, and more hidden crevasses. Regardless of when a descent is attempted, always ensure that you can see to the bottom of the slope you are on. Convex rolls are classic trigger points for avalanche's and often hide crevasses on their downhill side.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">All parties on foot should be roped up to help protect against glacier hazards. This means that transitioning from skiing to booting (or booting to skiing) should be done after roping up and spreading out the team. The greatly reduced surface area of boots compared to skis greatly increases the likelihood of punching through a snow bridge into a crevasse.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Technical Rescue & Rope Considerations</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">All parties must be competent in crevasse rescue. Every member should wear a climbing harness at all times in the event of a crevasse fall. Carrying two ropes affords a greater safety margin in the event that the person carrying the only rope falls into a crevasse – this risk can be easily mitigated. Many teams opt to bring a single 60m rope, however carrying two ropes per team that are each 30+ meters increases rescue safety margins while having a commonly missed benefit: the ski quality for the party as a whole is increased as no one is skiing with the weight of a 60m of rope in their pack! Each party member should have enough supplies to construct a rescue anchor, rappel into and ascend out of a crevasse, and execute a haul system. All other mountaineering equipment should also be carried, including crampons, ice axe, helmet, navigation, and survival gear.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">A ski descent of Rainier can be one of the most rewarding experiences for a competent party but it can quickly turn disastrous for the unskilled or unprepared. The fact that descending on skis is so much faster than on foot allows skiers to get off route and into problematic terrain all that more quickly. Proper planning and a high degree of caution is a prerequisite for a successful ski descent of the mountain.</span></p><br /></span>Brooke Maushundhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00372307316775998873noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-19909766145293818602023-06-09T13:47:00.004-07:002023-06-16T14:29:25.271-07:00Single Push Climbing and Permits at Mount Rainier<p><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">At Mount Rainier National Park, you are required to obtain a climbing permit if you plan to travel to the summit, above high camps (or ~10,000 ft), or travel on </span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; text-decoration: underline; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">any</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> glaciers. </span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.5pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">This includes climbing the mountain in a single push without camping, or doing a circumnavigation where you are traveling on glaciers.</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-a2f5ddf1-7fff-a085-e077-2f3ae3233bf0"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">What is Single Push Climbing?</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> Climbing to a summit in one push (or attempt) with the intent of not stopping for extended periods of time. A single push can be an excellent way to approach a climb of Mount Rainier if you are well-trained, experienced, and fit enough to do it. <span id="docs-internal-guid-c59e2f77-7fff-f6e2-7e8f-2f60bb82641a"><span style="background-color: white; color: #242424; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span></span>An example would be climbing the Disappointment Cleaver route on Mount Rainier starting and ending in Paradise parking lot within a day. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">There is continuing to be a trend in single-push style climbing. However, the same three rules still apply to a single push as a standard summit attempt on Mount Rainier! </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;">According to the code of federal regulations (36 CFR), t</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;">o travel on glaciers or above high camps (about 10,000 feet) you need a climbing permit, y</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;">ou must be 18 or have written permission from a guardian, and a </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">summit party must consist of at least two people or have a special </span><span style="color: #e69138;"><a href="https://forms.office.com/Pages/ResponsePage.aspx?id=urWTBhhLe02TQfMvQApUlA5wfIu7WnFLiOo_4phojRRUOFJRNUk2MURCOEFUOFo5Wjk2MkQ4NkNSQyQlQCN0PWcu" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; text-decoration-line: none; text-decoration: none; white-space: pre;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-wrap: wrap; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="color: #e69138;">solo permit</span></span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;">(which requires a separate application and approval process).</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>What is a climbing permit?</b> </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline;"><span><span style="color: #333333;">A climbing permit is the combination of paying the </span><a href="https://www.pay.gov/public/form/start/79997374"><span style="color: #e69138;">Annual Cost Recovery Fee</span></a><span style="color: #333333;"> </span></span></span><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline;">and obtaining the appropriate </span><span style="color: #e69138; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700;"><a href="https://www.recreation.gov/permits/4675317" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; font-weight: 400; text-decoration-line: none; text-decoration: none; white-space-collapse: collapse;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="color: #e69138;">wilderness permit</span></span></a><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 400; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span></span><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline;">for the specific dates of your trip and then picking up your permit <b>in person</b> at a Mount Rainier National Park</span><span style="color: #ff9900; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span><a href="https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/hours.htm" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: medium; text-decoration-line: none; text-decoration: none; white-space-collapse: collapse;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><span style="color: #e69138;">Wilderness Information Center</span></span></a><span style="color: #ffa400; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline;">.</span><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; text-indent: 36pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; text-indent: 36pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;">The Annual Climbing Cost Recovery Fee at Mount Rainier National Park helps provide for trained rangers to respond to search and rescue incidents, staff ranger stations and high camps to register climbers and provide up-to-date route conditions, and importantly, to remove human waste from the mountain and dispose of it properly. This $65 fee as of 2023 can be paid online before arriving at the park by following the link above and is good for the entire year. You will need to show your PAY.GOV tracking ID from the confirmation email to the rangers in Wilderness Information Centers in order to obtain your physical copy of your climbing permit. </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; text-indent: 36pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; text-indent: 36pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;">The Wilderness Permit allows you and your group to camp overnight or move through a general area for a specified set of dates. Even if you are climbing in a single push and not camping, we require that you get a wilderness permit...Why? It is likely that on your climb you may use amenities by stopping at Camp Muir or Camp Schurman to use the toilet, use our premade blue bags, depositing blue bags into blue bag barrels, and interacting with Park Staff in the Wilderness Information Centers in order to get your climbing permit. Additionally, you never know when you might have an unplanned night out on the mountain if something goes wrong. The wilderness permit allows us to track on several things: overdue climbing parties; the solitude of the wilderness area by limiting the number of people on any given route; the limiting people on a route allows spacing between route adjuncts allowing everything to move more fluidly. </span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; text-indent: 48px;">A wilderness permit is $6 for a walk-up (up to 24 hours in advanced), or $26 for advanced registration for 2023</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; text-indent: 36pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH2t6uNQMD3OVSae4uh1xztkD8ltQRT1fzDqdBFOzMyAWei9USASmNwRBovKB_8kXEf6Luj3A4gOzQxtB9ZLmNT3JEk3hYMUqK4SWd7eFgi2JTpOj_7pkavJorkivTkVVZhPcLIYpMsP_xlsQdmX4Q0TapfXboCsq-RifXE1pekr5X_shIiLM/s4032/image_67215617.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH2t6uNQMD3OVSae4uh1xztkD8ltQRT1fzDqdBFOzMyAWei9USASmNwRBovKB_8kXEf6Luj3A4gOzQxtB9ZLmNT3JEk3hYMUqK4SWd7eFgi2JTpOj_7pkavJorkivTkVVZhPcLIYpMsP_xlsQdmX4Q0TapfXboCsq-RifXE1pekr5X_shIiLM/w504-h640/image_67215617.JPG" title="Ptarmigan Ridge and Mowich Glacier on 6/8/23" width="504" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Northwest side of Mount Rainier on 6/8/23</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; text-indent: 36pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;"><br /></span><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; text-indent: 36pt; white-space-collapse: preserve;">Permitting Resources:</span></p><ul style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-inline-start: 48px;"><li aria-level="1" dir="ltr" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; list-style-type: disc; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre;"><p dir="ltr" role="presentation" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><a href="https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/permitsandreservations.htm" style="text-decoration-line: none; text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: #1155cc; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; text-decoration: underline; text-wrap: wrap; vertical-align: baseline;">Permits & Reservations - Mount Rainier National Park (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)</span></a></p></li></ul><div><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre;">We look forward to seeing you on the mountain!</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></span></div></span>Marissa Popphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15340721672802122098noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-44559567415585095622023-06-06T08:07:00.003-07:002023-06-08T12:54:44.781-07:00Disappointment Cleaver Update 6/4<p>It's official! The main climbing route used by independent and guided parties is now the Disappointment Cleaver. There are two sections of the route that have adjuncts - a short handline on the traverse to get onto the Cleaver, and a short handline around 13,700-13,800 ft to get up and over a small vertical section. There are currently no ladders, and the route is pretty straight forward and wanded well. Some snow is still lingering on the Cleaver itself, but not much and not for long! It's currently about 20% snow and 80% rock. The mountain is seeing rapid change with the sun and high freezing levels. Penitentes are prevalent in areas that get a lot of sun such as the traverse onto Cathedral Gap, the Disappointment Cleaver, and the upper Muir snowfield. Crevasses are widening and rock and ice fall zones have been quite active in the last couple of days.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg27RrPdz9Cq5x04fJt2BhnHVHjC5W5h-JIQ996Kf9ME9_oZhBjZx-gf7htld_7h5jG3abvdctKXlYgb-_MtUrwjolGgLUo0Fx6y09tQpGCSfS_4lTGkl-oFRxRWrkv4Qi9EPvnLQB4LBA8SR4jdyLqRGOS_JgpESy9TNGbm3UZpsnWlUdvV4w/s376/DC%20climb%206-4.PNG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="330" data-original-width="376" height="562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg27RrPdz9Cq5x04fJt2BhnHVHjC5W5h-JIQ996Kf9ME9_oZhBjZx-gf7htld_7h5jG3abvdctKXlYgb-_MtUrwjolGgLUo0Fx6y09tQpGCSfS_4lTGkl-oFRxRWrkv4Qi9EPvnLQB4LBA8SR4jdyLqRGOS_JgpESy9TNGbm3UZpsnWlUdvV4w/w640-h562/DC%20climb%206-4.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Route to the Summit via the Disappointment Cleaver</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3vk3MF_qEXY3zXbqB7jFiSqdAOC47Db9JPCpm1ULekpf_YGQF8h40IM8gZF2jpdvHkw6n1Pb2sZh7cp217YFkR1OW6Qe9x8twc2yOPB7XfqmdHIiV0DTNUEjuj6ZHaoDNysQPzNaO1-bXtRqL_6nLw_cv6BCsYCBhpfw5XRqe7bNiOEHeb_M/s4000/Cool%20wave%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3vk3MF_qEXY3zXbqB7jFiSqdAOC47Db9JPCpm1ULekpf_YGQF8h40IM8gZF2jpdvHkw6n1Pb2sZh7cp217YFkR1OW6Qe9x8twc2yOPB7XfqmdHIiV0DTNUEjuj6ZHaoDNysQPzNaO1-bXtRqL_6nLw_cv6BCsYCBhpfw5XRqe7bNiOEHeb_M/w480-h640/Cool%20wave%202.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the Disappointment Cleaver route between 13,500-13,800 feet<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>What is the route?</b> The route is a path up the mountain, maintained by the guide services for their use with their clients. It is not maintained or monitored in between these trips, it is not maintained by the park, and there is no guarantee that crossings in the route will remain good even through a single day as things are melting and changing. The route can be a relatively accessible way to access the mountain, but it's important that you know how to judge crossings and route finding for yourself on the mountain, beyond just following the footprints you see. The route is a handy tool, but it should never replace your own judgement!</p><p><b>What are reroutes?</b> As the cracks melt and widen on the mountain, the route will move to accommodate these changes. If you see crossed wands over the route, this means that there is a hazard, likely a melted-out crossing, up ahead. Even if there is a clear boot pack continuing underneath those wands, that boot pack is an earlier iteration. The crossed wands are a sign to look for new routes, evaluate crevasse crossings in the area, and ensure your own safety as an independent group. You will likely also be encountering these crossings in the dark during your climb, which makes careful navigation and judgement of terrain even more critical.</p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0ZU3E9qG9_bUqOCBe71eCqL7vaQdgdTWZrBoaKVmM0LY_LZxhMLxwMIcVH44wIql4--ADY3V3-IfYweeeeu2ZfSzRpHOKUUTrhEt6oETc50mCT9f5ropeVEfTyvxfiqgHOLUaPCEsMaHYv0VId4ReUdBLwXAOSG3fgoy2f76ZcS2u4i8R6LI/s4032/DC%20over%20view.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0ZU3E9qG9_bUqOCBe71eCqL7vaQdgdTWZrBoaKVmM0LY_LZxhMLxwMIcVH44wIql4--ADY3V3-IfYweeeeu2ZfSzRpHOKUUTrhEt6oETc50mCT9f5ropeVEfTyvxfiqgHOLUaPCEsMaHYv0VId4ReUdBLwXAOSG3fgoy2f76ZcS2u4i8R6LI/w640-h480/DC%20over%20view.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overview of the Disappointment Cleaver from 6-3-2023<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b>Skiing: </b>Many skiers are still making their way to Camp Muir. Conditions skiing down the Muir snowfield are challenging with runnels, sun cups, and penitentes. In other words, it is a really bumpy and a challenging ski. It is not recommended to try and ski on the upper mountain in the Muir corridor due to poor surface conditions and large crevasses. We have seen many parties hike their skis to the summit just to hike them back down again. </p><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQBJw2RSL82zeYEj2_wZmC-55_K7S-GLqnTykDfHhpOanQQS0hJZRg0dN2RWfHIpbU8aqmjRqeXKs5rpwnNRVMJOyvpLtv-SKg3vD6pPBMM1qRk0vF2aWP2KFWXAX_06rY-xesx-mjwNJ161y0-XI7v9ng86qD9AYHsjRXj8QL9uzNDzIEN-0/s4000/penitentes.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQBJw2RSL82zeYEj2_wZmC-55_K7S-GLqnTykDfHhpOanQQS0hJZRg0dN2RWfHIpbU8aqmjRqeXKs5rpwnNRVMJOyvpLtv-SKg3vD6pPBMM1qRk0vF2aWP2KFWXAX_06rY-xesx-mjwNJ161y0-XI7v9ng86qD9AYHsjRXj8QL9uzNDzIEN-0/w640-h480/penitentes.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penitentes forming on the upper mountain.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p>Marissa Popphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15340721672802122098noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21891831.post-50462969655718447462023-06-03T11:21:00.000-07:002023-06-05T11:22:24.462-07:00Ingraham Direct Switching to the Disappointment Cleaver<p>Warm temps have led to significant crevassing on the Ingraham Direct. The primary route maintained and traveled by guide services will now be the Disappointment Cleaver. Above the Cleaver (12,500') the route remains unchanged. </p><p>Please don't forget to pick up your climbing permit in person at one of the Wilderness Information Centers (WIC)! The Paradise WIC and White River WIC are open daily 7:30 AM to 5:00 PM. A list of operating hours and contact information for the Park can be found <a href="https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/hours.htm" target="_blank">here</a>. And don't forget to pay your <a href="https://www.pay.gov/public/form/start/79997374" target="_blank">Annual Climbing Cost Recovery Fee</a>. It can be paid ahead of time and is needed in order to get a climbing permit. Hope to see you out there!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;">0<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirsgX6wTHE1TKBsiaFTdOVGj6-0GxMci-58zdA0arrOHdXO4q_z1yTorvTUSeGZb4Am0CZhYFr8Qrv31Rpgdw6YZCBP9gI9wisCrXFVGF_XCjsIgNMGvEOi3-8_pGTAFRwP0ReHJDhB11yciguPYcCQMqht9NSZqj23jxlFXokornyr2eYGM4/s4032/DC%20over%20view.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirsgX6wTHE1TKBsiaFTdOVGj6-0GxMci-58zdA0arrOHdXO4q_z1yTorvTUSeGZb4Am0CZhYFr8Qrv31Rpgdw6YZCBP9gI9wisCrXFVGF_XCjsIgNMGvEOi3-8_pGTAFRwP0ReHJDhB11yciguPYcCQMqht9NSZqj23jxlFXokornyr2eYGM4/w640-h480/DC%20over%20view.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overview of Ingraham Flats, Disappointment Cleaver, and Ingraham Direct</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ1fxOnrcy7HEjXYfPUK91LB0CZSxGlvT0WoSXEpnGfbxH2ApSzb657TcU1ladLV4YsKg0XwFFOVeHG0HpWOAyuAOxTfJxIxemClnPHB53TTGraS0_XgutitOMhicq-X0_y5eMqGcJE5p-fXWJbLG3tgaqGsAv1o8k_sbQOcy3EBc0Uz6nBYI/s4000/upper%20mtn%20with%20view%20of%20flats.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ1fxOnrcy7HEjXYfPUK91LB0CZSxGlvT0WoSXEpnGfbxH2ApSzb657TcU1ladLV4YsKg0XwFFOVeHG0HpWOAyuAOxTfJxIxemClnPHB53TTGraS0_XgutitOMhicq-X0_y5eMqGcJE5p-fXWJbLG3tgaqGsAv1o8k_sbQOcy3EBc0Uz6nBYI/w480-h640/upper%20mtn%20with%20view%20of%20flats.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of the Ingraham Direct and upper Disappointment Cleaver routes</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxRstq53FaN3uWSjoGtDwNO-mjDa9GEZJKYGqkm9czYos3AbUJDB0l33ZKgj9t_-GX7l81KIlHSLrhjcVU5kLUF7YjE5b31NpMs_DSlbBCWjuB-RlAcZajlYSmIqGrBtDjFA4VAKJd0hd80Ro_HS4ut4jKQJiKAW2-adOYPE3b1j3fFSdKvnE/s4000/Upper%20ID%20DC%20route.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxRstq53FaN3uWSjoGtDwNO-mjDa9GEZJKYGqkm9czYos3AbUJDB0l33ZKgj9t_-GX7l81KIlHSLrhjcVU5kLUF7YjE5b31NpMs_DSlbBCWjuB-RlAcZajlYSmIqGrBtDjFA4VAKJd0hd80Ro_HS4ut4jKQJiKAW2-adOYPE3b1j3fFSdKvnE/w640-h480/Upper%20ID%20DC%20route.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of the upper Ingraham Direct Route</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Marissa Popphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15340721672802122098noreply@blogger.com