Disappointment Cleaver Update 7/13/25

 It has been sunny and hot up here as we head into mid-July. Freezing levels this past week have been steady in the 15-17k' range and the forecast for the next week looks similar. This extended warm weather and the high sun angle of mid-summer create dynamic conditions on the upper mountain with little to no refreeze at nights. This leads to punchy snow, weak crevasse bridges, and new cracks opening daily. Climbers should approach all crevasses with extra caution and plan to leave early, avoiding the heat of midday when the snow is weakest. 

Disappointment Cleaver

The route remains much the same as described in our previous DC blog from 7/9, so be sure to check that out for more info. Here are some photos from an ascent a few days later on 7/12:

Looking down from Dunn's Roll near 10,600' on the east side of Cathedral Gap

The ladder at High Crack near 11,400'

Looking back at the 11,400' traverse under the Ice Box and Bowling Alley to access the cleaver. Teams are encouraged to move quick through this section of high overhead hazard.

Penitentes above the cleaver.

The ladder at 12,900'. The boot pack splits just above this ladder where teams can choose the right or left variation. 

The ladder at 12,900' on the right variation. Note the serac hazard after the ladder, above the traverse towards the Emmons shoulder. 

Widening crevasse and thin bridge at the end of the 12,900' traverse to the Emmons Shoulder. Right Variation

Mt. Rainier casts a long shadow

Additional considerations

-It is always a good idea for teams of two to carry 2 pickets per person, and teams of 3 or more to have at least one picket per person, especially when building anchors for crevasse rescue in slushy snow. 

-Prepare for and prevent the possibility of heat injuries like heat exhaustion and heat stroke by staying hydrated, avoiding climbing in the hottest times of day, and taking more rests as needed to prevent overheating. 

-Never split up with your teammates or leave someone behind. If some needs to turn around, it is the responsibility of the entire team to facilitate that, the well-being of your teammate is more important than the summit. Furthermore, if splitting up leaves someone solo, that is a permit violation. Soloing requires a specific solo permit application and approval. 

-The Public Shelter remains closed till ~9/30/2025 for maintenance. As always, even when the public shelter is open, come prepared with your own tent. 

The Camp Muir Public Shelter Closes on July 7th for Construction

 The Public Shelter at Camp Muir will close for maintenance and improvements from July 7-September 30, 2025. The shelter will still be available for emergency use only for safety purposes. All climbers and overnight users will need to bring tents and plan to camp.

The emergency radio that has been inside the public shelter will temporarily be moved to the restroom nearest the helipad. This base station radio is to be used for emergencies only to contact the park's dispatch.

Historic construction images

The historic Camp Muir Public Shelter was constructed in 1921 and is the only sleeping shelter available for climbers and visitors who are not part of a guided tour. It is a stacked mortared stone building with a flat roof and wooden details. The shelter is a contributing building to the Mount Rainier National Historic Landmark District and the Camp Muir Historic District, which is at 10,000 feet elevation on the slopes of Mount Rainier. Camp Muir is the primary base camp from which most summit attempts depart.

Historic photos of the Public Shelter, 1921

The buildings at Camp Muir are subjected to hurricane force winds year-round with driving ice, snow, and debris that breaks down exterior finishes and shortens the life span of building components. The public shelter has not received targeted maintenance in over a decade. Work to maintain the building includes repointing of stone masonry, repair of roof, electrical lighting and cook area ventilation, maintenance on historic doors, and repainting of interior sleeping bunks. Work will be completed by NPS staff in accordance with the Secretary of the Interior’s Guidelines for Treatment of Historic Properties.

Climbers resting in front of the Public Shelter, Circa 1930s

Emmons Winthrop Update 7/9/2025

The mountain experiences a prolonged stretch of sunny summer weather and climbers continue to work up and down the Emmons route. With warming weather and softening snow, we have seen ice fall from seracs around the Emmons and Winthrop as well as significant continual rockfall from the Curtis ridge and upper mountain. That is all to say that warming temps are having an effect on the mountain. 

7/8/2025 - Inter Glacier

Warm weather and long sunshine of high summer change the mountain daily, so today's route beta may be tomorrow's dead end. Climbers who attempt the Emmons-Winthrop route should come prepared for an unmaintained, wilderness glacier route which requires diligent navigation, careful crevasse-bridge assessment, and self-sufficiency in a remote, alpine environment. 

Rangers noted a significant change in snow coverage on the inter glacier from the start of their shift to the end, with the entrance to the Emmons route becoming slightly more challenging. Accessing the Emmons Glacier from Camp Curtis has become increasingly difficult now that the moraine is mostly snow free, exposing steep, loose rock and dirt. Teams should be prepared to slow down through here, coordinate with other groups moving through this bottleneck, and watch for rockfall. Some teams have opted to use hip belays in the steeper sections of the trail here, however there are no good rock anchors to rely on. As a reminder, after crossing the moraine the final approach to camp Schurman is on the Emmons Glacier and climbers are encouraged to rope up for glacier travel. The boot pack crosses over several crevasses between the moraine and camp. 

As of 7/9/25, the route remains in good condition and follows generally the same path as it has for the last couple weeks. The route has seen the most change between 11,400' and 13,000' as crevasses open and re-routing of the backpack occurs. This has led to several old, but well-established boot packs existing in this section that lead to dead-ends or less ideal crevasse-bridge crossings. Pay close attention through this zone and record a GPS track on your way up that you can follow back down to avoid wrong turns. When in doubt it, teams have reported that taking the lower boot pack option has been more successful if multiple trails are present. 

7/9/2025 - Emmons Winthrop 

Disappointment Cleaver 7/9/2025

  Overview

 Fourth of July brought favorable conditions to Mount Rainier and climbers found sunny days and overall great weather for summit attempts. Friday through Sunday was quite busy with a full camp at both Muir and Ingraham Flats.  

We are still in a transitional period here at Mount Rainier and any type of conditions can exist at any time. Always be prepared for wintery conditions even if just day hiking up the snowfield. Main hazards associated with this time of year include:

- Rapidly changing and unpredictable weather including winter snowstorms

- Overhead hazard from rock and serac fall

- Thinning snow-bridges over crevasses

Disappointment Cleaver

Hiking to Camp Muir:

On the way up from Paradise, please stick to the summer trail if it is melted out/snow free. If the trail is still buried, please follow NPS wands (markers) through the snow until gaining sections of melted trail. Please avoid trampling the fragile alpine wildflowers and vegetation. 

The Muir Snowfield itself is starting its transition to a summer texture with suncups lining the entirety of its length. Skiers take note, do not expect smooth snow surface conditions if skiing/riding from Camp Muir. 

Always be prepared to navigate to/from Muir in wintery whiteout conditions.

Above Camp Muir:

The National Park Service does not maintain the route; however, guide services on Mount Rainier do significant work to keep the climb maintained and marked with reflective wands. Several areas along the DC have significant exposure to overhead rock and icefall hazard. Remember, if you look up and something can come off the mountain and down on your team, do not take a break there. Continue moving until the overhead hazard is no longer present. 

Above Ingraham Flats, guide services established a small ladder across high crack. Gaining entrance to the Cleaver is still relatively straight forward. Remember, Significant serac fall and icefall exists in this zone. To reiterate from above, do not break here. Appropriate break spots exist once your team is on the "spine" of the Cleaver. 

From the top of the DC the route follows a well-established route to roughly 12,800ft. The ladder at this location still exists and from here the route splits. One is the "older" route travelling fairly direct to the crater. The alternate route travels further climbers-right and gains the Emmons Shoulder to rejoin the existing route at roughly 13,400ft. 

The more direct route still is in use by independent teams and guide services at the time this blog is written. It is important to remember that now with summer temps gaining consistency on the upper mountain, crevasses can open, and snow bridges can collapse. The direct route has several snow bridges that teams will travel over, and climbers should use their discretion when crossing. Beat the heat of the day by climbing early and descending early to alleviate some risk of collapsing bridges. 

The Emmons Shoulder route will traverse out climbers right where teams will cross another horizontal ladder just below 13,000ft. This route overall has less crevasses parties will travel over but the advice remains the same to minimize exposure in warming temperatures. 

Remember, Mount Rainier is a dynamic environment and can host winter storms any time of year. Always check the weather forecast before your climb and never completely rule out the possibility of severe weather/winds affecting your climb. 

Additional Information

- The Public Shelter at Camp Muir is now closed for maintenance since July 7 - September 30. Climbers camping at Muir should plan on bringing and sleeping in tents. 

- Remember, practice Leave No Trace principals throughout your entire visit to Mount Rainier National Park. Rangers went through the Public Shelter prior to its closure after the holiday weekend and collected 30 pounds of garbage left behind by climbers. Do not litter in your national park. 

- A climbing permit and payment of the annual climbing fee are required to climb Mount Rainier. More information can be found on the Mount Rainier National Park's Website. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open for the season with hours of operation between 7:30am - 5pm. 

Disappointment Cleaver 7/3/2025

Parties continue to summit via the DC as summer finally feels like it's arrived for this holiday weekend!  Be prepared to route find and problem solve as the route up may differ from the route down due to changing conditions, which is typical for glacial mountaineering routes. Guide services have installed a horizontal ladder to cross a crevasse as 12,900', above the cleaver. There's still a handline along the nose of the cleaver as well.  As the route continues to change, more adjuncts like ladders, "fixed" pickets and handlines may be added and/or removed.  Use all of these adjuncts at your own risk.  Just because a climbing party or guide used that adjunct before does not mean that it continues to be safe to use as the anchors can melt out or the angle of the glacier can change.  Often times any route adjunct can be climbed around or bypassed, so look critically at the route as you ascend to find the safest course  

Climbers will note an alternative reroute to the route on the DC at around 12,900' that links back to the 'main' route around 13,800'.  This alternative ascends climber's right toward the Emmons Shoulder and avoids many crevasse crossings that the direct route crosses.  As the summer moves on remember that with ever changing conditions - numerous snow bridged crevasses exist throughout the route - use good decision making to navigate safely - and if the conditions or route doesn't seem safe for ALL of the folks in your party to ascend, definitely turn around.  

7/2/2025 - 12,900' bridged crevasse 

We have had multiple instances of crevasse falls from independent climbers over the last few weeks- 

rangers have been seeing a wide spectrum of preparation and knowledge on the mountain. As a reminder, knowing how to perform crevasse rescue effectively with the appropriate gear is paramount. - always have a plan for how to handle self-rescue in the event of an emergency. 

7/2/2025 - Current Route Alternatives

7/2/2025 - Penitentes near the top of the Cleaver

Keep an eye on freezing levels and the weather.  As the temperatures warm up: think earlier starts; as things cool down and get stormy, think a bit later start and be sure to not climb into situations where self-rescue or helicopter-rescue may not be possible.  Enjoy the holiday weekend and see you up high! 

Emmons-Winthrop Update 6/30/2025

Sunset over Curtis Ridge from Camp Schurman

Sunshine and warm weather returned to the mountain over the final weekend of June after a week of cooler temps and light precipitation. It was a busy weekend here at camp Schurman and many teams were able to take advantage of the great weather and find success on the Emmons-Winthrop route.

Warm weather and long sunshine of high summer change the mountain daily, so today's route beta may be tomorrow's dead end. Climbers who attempt the Emmons-Winthrop route should come prepared for an unmaintained, wilderness glacier route which requires diligent navigation, careful crevasse-bridge assessment, and self-sufficiency in a remote, alpine environment. 

The trail from White River campground is 99% snow free to Glacier Basin and above till reaching the Inter Glacier near 6800'. Travel up the Inter is mostly snow and no crevasses have appeared yet along the standard boot pack. 

Steep, loose dirt and rock crossing the moraine from Camp Curtis to the Emmons Glacier below Camp Schurman (6/30/25)

The final step of the moraine before getting on the Emmons Glacier (6/30/25)

 

Accessing the Emmons Glacier from Camp Curtis has become increasingly difficult now that the moraine is mostly snow free, exposing steep, loose rock and dirt. Teams should be prepared to slow down through here, coordinate with other groups moving through this bottleneck, and watch for rockfall. Some teams have opted to use hip belays in the steeper sections of the trail here, however there are no good rock anchors to rely on. As a reminder, after crossing the moraine the final approach to camp Schurman is on the Emmons Glacier and climbers are encouraged to rope up for glacier travel. The boot pack crosses over several crevasses between the moraine and camp. 

Approximate path of the Emmons-Winthrop Route 6/30/25 some extra switchbacks may be encountered

As of 6/30/25, the route remains in good condition and follows generally the same path as it has for the last couple weeks. The route has seen the most change between 11,400' and 13,000' as crevasses open and re-routing of the backpack occurs. This has led to several old, but well-established boot packs existing in this section that lead to dead-ends or less ideal crevasse-bridge crossings. Pay close attention through this zone and record a GPS track on your way up that you can follow back down to avoid wrong turns. When in doubt it, teams have reported that taking the lower boot pack option has been more successful if multiple trails are present. 

Widening crevasse near 12,400'. The boot pack may or may not be the best place to cross when you encounter it (6/28/25).

Teams are encouraged to evaluate each crevasse crossing they encounter along the boot pack as often there is a much better place to cross just downhill or uphill of where the established boot pack is. In some cases, the crevasse may be end run entirely just a short distance from the boot pack so be sure to look around instead of blindly following the trail. Bridges that may have been solid in the AM can often be unreliable by midday after the sun and heat has softened the snow up, so teams should make a plan to be down early and stick to preset turnaround times. 

Large serac fall in the gut of the upper Winthrop glacier. The route traverses above this to/from the Liberty Saddle (6/28/25).

Don't forget to pay the climbing cost recovery fee and check in out our wilderness information centers at Paradise or White River entrance to receive your climbing permit in person. This is a great time of year to be on the mountain with long days and pleasant weather, we look forward to seeing you up here!

Also, check out our last couple blogs on the Emmons for additional info. 

Disappointment Cleaver 6/25/2025

 Overview

With the Summer Solstice now past us, climbers on the mountain were greeted with a small storm over the last weekend. What a way to start summer with fresh snow at Camp Muir! 

New snow has since melted and climbers have since found good weather windows in their itineraries to attempt a summit. We are still in a transitional period here at Mount Rainier and any type of conditions can exist at any time. Always be prepared for wintery conditions even if just day hiking up the snowfield. Main hazards associated with this time of year include:

- Rapidly changing and unpredicted weather including winter snowstorms

- Overhead hazard from rock and serac fall

- Thinning snow-bridges over crevasses

Disappointment Cleaver Route

View of Ingraham Flats and the DC 6/24/25

Hiking to Camp Muir:

On the way up from Paradise, please stick to the summer trail if it is melted out/snow free. If the trail is still buried, please follow NPS wands (markers) through the snow until gaining sections of melted trail. Please avoid trampling the fragile alpine wildflowers and vegetation. 

The Muir Snowfield itself is starting its transition to a summer texture with suncups lining the entirety of its length. Skiers take note, do not expect smooth snow surface conditions if skiing/riding from Camp Muir. 

Always be prepared to navigate to/from Muir in wintery whiteout conditions.

Above Camp Muir:

The National Park Service does not maintain the route; however, guide services on Mount Rainier do significant route-work and keep it well-marked with reflective wands. Thank a guide for their hard work! Several areas along the DC route have significant exposure to overhead rock and icefall hazard. Remember, if you look up and something can come down on top of your team, do not take a break there. Continue moving until no overhead hazard exists. 

Above Ingraham Flats camp, local guide services rerouted High Crack to a more "classic" ascent. The route moves further climbers left of the old track and crosses higher on the slope then diagonals over through the ice box. Gaining entrance to the cleaver is still straight forward, though can always be a bottleneck if teams are traveling close together. The DC itself is fully melted out and teams should be expecting to travel on rocks to the top. 

View of the cleaver entrance after navigating through High Crack

Track of the route as of 6/24/25

Above the DC, the route remains fairly "direct" switch backing up to the crater rim. 

There are currently no ladders on the route. Remember, the mountain is a very dynamic environment and changes to the "route" can happen within hours. Guide services anticipate a ladder to be placed at the 12,800 crevasse when necessary. There are several pickets on the upper mountain that are maintained by guides. Use this running protection at your own discretion and please do not remove the carabiners or equipment. Complex crevasses exist throughout the route with snow-bridges to navigate through. If climbing/descending in high freezing levels or warm afternoon temperatures, be observant for any snow-bridge sagging or significant changes in route conditions. 

Skiing on the upper mountain would be quite bad due to surface conditions. Penitentes are peppering upper slopes and make holding an edge extremely difficult. A fall would be consequential due to exposure and crevasse openings. 

Kautz Report from an independent party:

The main Kautz Ice Chute has sections of bare, exposed ice up to potentially 2 full vertical pitches. Expect traveling through large penitentes after the rock step and throughout. Parties should be carrying ice screws with them for protection. 

Views of the Kautz Ice Chute. Pictures from an independent party with permission to share.

Remember, Mount Rainier is a dynamic environment and can host winter storms any time of year. Always check the weather forecast before your climb and never completely rule out the possibility of severe weather/winds affecting your climb. 

Additional Information

- The Public Shelter at Camp Muir will be closed for maintenance improvements from July 7 - September 30 2025. The shelter will remain available for emergency use only. Climbers camping at Muir should plan on bringing and sleeping in tents at Muir after July 7. 

- Remember to Leave No Trace throughout your entire visit to Mount Rainier National Park.

- A climbing permit and payment of the annual climbing fee are required to climb Mount Rainier. More information can be found on Mount Rainier National Parks Website. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open for the season with hours of operation between 7:30am - 5pm.

Emmons Update 6/25/25

 

The trail to glacier basin is mostly snow free with a few patches of stubborn snow the final mile. Above glacier basin there are various boot packs up the inter glacier to Camp Curtis. The Inter Glacier still has decent snow coverage from the winter on 6/22, however the surface condition has become very sun cupped and would be highly challenging to navigate on skis. There are a few open moats around the various nunataks, but no open crevasses were observed. Rangers have observed a variety of strategies that parties take to access camp Schurman from the Inter Glacier. Pertinent notes for navigating this portion would include staying clear of overhead hazard from rocks and navigating through broken glaciated terrain. 

Emmons Glacier below camp 6/22/25

Although there is a well-established boot pack on a majority of the route climbers are encouraged to evaluate changing conditions and deteriorating snow bridges and make their own decisions on the best/safest path when necessary. There are a few points on the route where the well-trodden "path" crosses a marginal snow bridge. Safer crossings can be found by looking around to a less traveled area where a more robust bridge can be utilized or a crevasse can be end run. 

Crevasse at 12,400' 6/22/25

We are still seeing independent climbers bringing skis to the upper mountain on the Emmons - when we talked with these parties on the route and back at Schurman many skiers used terms such as "bad skiing", "rugged", and "highly variable" when describing their descent. Many also reported carrying their equipment back down the mountain a distance before reaching a point they wanted to ski/board from. Further, rangers repeatedly observed riders get off their intended descent route at ~12,000ft landing them well above the corridor in broken and crevassed terrain. 

While we are almost into July here in the park weather is ever dynamic, always consult weather in the planning phase as well as your climb. Weather resources can be found here. 

Ptarmagin Ridge 6/19/25

Multiple parties have made attempts on Ptarmigan Ridge over the past few weeks with only one successful climb. Photos taken on 6/19/25 show an overview of the area and current snow and ice coverage on the route. 

These photographs were taken by an independent party of 3 that opted not to climb due to the current conditions on the route 

Emmons Update 6/18

 

The Emmons Winthrop route is still in good shape and has seen many successful ascents and descents in the past week. 

The trail to glacier basin is mostly snow free with a few patches of stubborn snow the final mile before. Above glacier basin there are various boot packs up the inter glacier to Camp Curtis. The Inter Glacier still has decent snow coverage from the winter with on fern ice on 6/18. There are a few open moats around the various nunataks, but no open crevasses were observed.

Looking up at the Inter Glacier from the moraine above glacier basin

A route to the Summit on 6/14/25

Although there is a well-established boot pack on a majority of the route climbers are encouraged to evaluate changing conditions and deteriorating snow bridges and make their own decisions on the best/safest path when necessary. There are a few points on the route where the well-trodden "path" crosses a marginal snow bridge. Safer crossings can be found by looking around to a less traveled area where a more robust bridge can be utilized or a crevasse can be end run. 

Crevasses at 11,400' - 6/14/2025

This last weekend we saw many descents by skiers and split boarders. When we talked with these parties on the route and back at Schurman many skiers used terms such as "bad skiing", "rugged", and "highly variable" when describing their descent. Many also reported carrying their equipment back down the mountain a distance before reaching a point they wanted to ski/board from. Further, rangers repeatedly observed riders get off their intended descent route at ~12,000ft landing them well above the corridor in broken and crevassed terrain. 

Boot pack at 13,400 - 6/14/2025

Overview of the Emmons route from Camp Schurman - 6/14/2025

If you are planning for a ski/board descent of the Emmons come prepared for variable surface conditions consisting of, sun cups, Penitentes, ice, and Sastrugi. If you are expecting planer surfaces and good corn skiing on the upper mountain you may be disappointed and find yourself in more challenging conditions. Carful route-finding is even more paramount when descending on skis due to the faster speed at which riders encounter terrain and a lack or rope to arrest a fall. 

If your team is planning on un-roping and riding down the mountain be thinking about your rope strategy... If you only have one rope for the team and the person who is carrying the rope falls into a crevasse, what is your plan?? 

North Side Photos and Route Info

The north side of Rainier 6/17/25

Climbing traffic has slowed down on the north side routes of Rainier over the last week due to changing route conditions and difficulty accessing some routes.

Liberty Ridge: Climbers have reported bailing from the approach to Liberty Ridge in recent days after having difficulty accessing the ridge from the Carbon glacier. Parties have reported a lack of adequate snow coverage on Liberty Ridge, which is typical for late June. Navigating the upper Carbon glacier has been difficult as well, with numerous open crevasses, necessitating circuitous travel.

Ptarmigan Ridge: Parties were successful on Ptarmigan in early June. There have been no reports of successful summits on this route over the last two weeks. Note that Ptarmigan ridge must be accessed from the White River campground this year due to the Mowich lake road closure. 

 Liberty Ridge (left) and Ptarmigan Ridge (center) on 6/17/25

Disappointment Cleaver 06/14/2025

Overview

With the summer solstice fast approaching, climbers have been experiencing long days and ample sunshine as many ascend the Disappointment Cleaver Route. We’re in a transitional period between spring and summer weather and snow conditions with changes occurring at every elevation on the mountain, from the lower slopes of Paradise to the summit. 

A low-pressure system will move into the region over the next few days, bringing the potential for significant wind, precipitation, dropping temperatures, poor visibility, and obscured hazards.  Always be prepared for wintery conditions, even on a daytrip up the Muir snowfield. The main hazards associated with this time of year include:

• Rapidly changing and unpredictable weather, including whiteout and wintery conditions

• Overhead hazard from rock and serac fall

• Thin snow bridges over crevasses

Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route

Some notes about the approach to Camp Muir:

On the way up from Paradise, please stick to the Summer Trail if it’s melted out and snow if there is no obvious dirt/rock trail. There are occasional markers on the lower snow "trails" beneath Panorama Point to indicate the Summer Trail. Please avoid trampling the fragile alpine wildflowers and other vegetation. 

There is water flowing from Pebble Creek above Panorama Point and we recommend filtering it if you plan to drink it.

Be ready to navigate the Muir Snowfield in whiteout conditions.

Above Camp Muir:

The National Park Service does not maintain the route; however, local guiding services do significant route-work and keep it well-marked with reflective wands. There is rock and serac fall debris scattered throughout the beginning of the climb above Camp Muir, most notably throughout the Ingraham Flats (see earlier posts about 5/19 Serac Fall) and the "Bowling Alley". Attempting to pass rope teams in these zones will not likely save time and instead it can cause tangled ropes amongst the massive ice blocks in the Flats. There are several crevasses to navigate leading up to the DC so plan rope lengths and teams accordingly. This is one of the many places to move swiftly on the route to mitigate the risks of overhead hazard.

Looking back on the Ingraham Glacier from the base of the Disappointment Cleaver. The “Bowling Alley” and debris from the 5/19 Serac Fall can be seen.

The DC itself is fully melted out and it primarily involves rock travel. Remember to use careful footing and don’t let your rope drag on the ground through this section; avoid sweeping rocks down on parties beneath you. The uphill party is responsible for mitigating this avoidable rockfall hazard. If you’re concerned about kicking rocks down on other parties, simply stop moving and wait for the area below you to be clear of people before you continue. Communicate and be patient.

There are currently no ladders on the route. There is a fixed-line (to be used for balance only, do not fully weight it) and several snow pickets that are maintained by the guides–use your discretion with this gear and please don’t remove any carabiners or equipment. There are complex crevasses and snow bridges to navigate above the cleaver, especially on the steeper transitions in slope angle. With warming afternoon temperatures, be observant on the descent for any snow-bridge sagging or significant changes in route conditions. Skiing on the upper DC route would be quite bad due to surface conditions (penitentes), and a fall would be consequential because of the major crevasse crossings and exposure. 

In such a dynamic environment, give yourself a large margin for error with the incoming weather system. Track conditions and stay flexible if you’re planning to climb the mountain to celebrate the longest day of the year. Thanks for reading and remember to thank the guides for all of the hard work they do on the route!

Several independent and guided parties moving across the upper mountain, seen from the top of the Disappointment Cleaver.

Additional Information

Remember to Leave No Trace on the mountain (and in the Camp Muir Public Shelter).

 A climbing permit and Payment of the Climbing Cost and Recovery Fee are required to climb Mount Rainier. More information can be found on Mount Rainier National Parks Website. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open for the season with hours of operation between 7:30am - 5pm.

Emmons Winthrop Route Update

The E/W Route has really come into great shape this June. Both skiers and climbers alike have found straightforward navigation up the glacier and crevasses that are easy to end-run or cross.  

Starting from the trailhead at White River Campground, the trail is mostly snow free until about 1/2 mile from Glacier Basin Campground.  From Glacier Basin, expect snowy conditions on the Inter Glacier.  The crevasses on the Inter Glacier haven't started to show and the firm glacial ice has yet to melt out.  Rockfall early in the morning when the snow surface is firm might be the biggest hazard right now on the Inter Glacier. 

Climber and skiers headed to Camp Schurman and up to the higher pitches on the mountain should veer off the Inter Glacier and onto the Emmons Glacier at around 9200', just above Camp Curtis.  Don't get suckered into following tracks to the top of Steamboat Prow.  

Looking down at Camp Schurman and the Streamboat Prow - the red line depicts the approach to Camp Schurman from the Inter Glacier at about 9200 feet.

Above Camp Schurman the route is in incredible shape. Fairly planar and direct up the corridor, an easy traverse from the top of the corridor at about 11,800' towards the upper Winthrop, and then general switchbacks up and right until Liberty Saddle.  Above Liberty Saddle, about 13,600', the surface conditions deteriorate with ice and sastrugi making for poor skiing conditions and tricky cramponing.  

Switchback up to Liberty Saddle, fairly planar snow.  

As always, and especially with the hot weather we're experiencing right now, major route changes can occur with glacial movement and the surface conditions of the glaciers can vary drastically depending on the time of day.  

Looking up towards the summit from Liberty Saddle.

Make sure to register at the ranger station to get your permit and pay the climbing fee.  Lately, there's been lots of walk-up availability, especially on weekdays.  Hope to see you up on the mountain as the solstice approaches!

Kautz Glacier 06/01/2025

The weather over the last week has brought mostly sunny days, moderate temperatures for this time of year with freeze levels bouncing between 9-11k, and consistent north winds providing for generally pleasant climbing conditions. Still, a few brief systems have rolled through as reminders to stay prepared for wintry weather and whiteout navigation, though little new snow has accumulated. Long days and warm weather as we head into summer continue melt and change surface conditions daily.

From Panorama Point looking across the Nisqually and Wilson Glaciers at the aproach to the Kautz.

As of 6/01/2025 the approach to the Kautz from Paradise is still predominantly snow, starting at the parking lot. Crossing the lower Nisqually glacier and gaining the Wilson bench is straightforward currently and climbers' have options as to how they would like to reach the Turtle snowfield. There have been few days with freeze level below 9K recently and snow conditions are changing rapidly at low elevations. Be wary of soft and sagging snow bridges over crevasses, as well as overhead cornice and rockfall potential. As a reminder, the lower Nisqually and Wilson are glaciated terrain and traveling roped up is always recommended. 

The Turtle snowfield and camp Hazard looking up from the Castle at 9k'

From the Castle up the ridgeline along the Turtle to the rock step, multiple camp sites/tent pads are starting to melt out and running water is occasionally found in the rocks, but water maybe unavailable if the freezing level is low. The rock step is melted out with 15' of traversing downclimb to reach snow. There was a handline in place on 6/01/25, however never trust your life to fixed gear without inspecting the anchor and rope quality first and be prepared to manage this feature on your own. Traversing from the rock step into the main Kautz chute is moderate snow currently, however the traverse moves under seracs that require attention. 

The rock step looking forward

The rock step looking back, 10-15' of traversing-down climbing to a snow ledge.

The Kautz chute is currently steep snow through the first pinch, ~50 degrees, but a few more warm days may melt this down to glacier ice. The second and final step of the chute was one pitch of AI2 and steep snow. A light rack of pickets, several ice screws, and two axes were useful for this pitch. Above the chute the route continues into low angle glacier walking towards the Wapowety Cleaver. There are several large cracks in this 12-13k' zone that are bridged currently allowing for direct travel but may require long end runs as they melt out. 

The Kautz chute from the rock step. The lower pinch is still snow while the upper requires a pitch of AI2 climbing.   

Steep snow leading into the ice pitch of the upper chute.

Above the Wapowety cleaver, climber's currently have the option to head climber's left towards Point Success through the steep snow of the upper Kautz, or climber's right onto the upper Nisqually glacier and towards the Columbia Crest through lower angle terrain. Moving off the Wapowety Cleaver onto the Nisqually may increase in difficulty as the moat along the cleaver melts and widens. 

Low angle glacier travel of the upper Kautz below the Wapowety Cleaver.