June 25, 2024: Emmons/Winthrop Route
This blog is maintained by the MRNP Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.
Overview:
- Windy! High pressure has dominated the past week with a couple of smaller, upper-level troughs rolling through. With the high pressure centered to the East, this has created pressure gradients that brought strong winds which have turned or kept parties off the route.
- Some of these troughs have brought upper-level moisture and formed lenticulars or high elevation cloud decks around 13,000 ft. which created problems for climbers.
- Localized white out conditions due to blowing snow has also created problems without clouds developing.
- High freezing levels, ~13,000 ft, dropping to around ~10,000 ft. with the cooler storms.
- Very warm and Sunny! When there was no storm...
- Wet activity has been noted below 11,000 ft. when the strong sun and warm temps developed. There has been wet loose releasing off cliff bands and a few small pockets of wet slab.
- The bridges and plugs used to cross, mainly at the 11,400 ft. crevasse, are melting with the warm temps. One crevasse fall was reported this week after a bridge collapsed in the late afternoon.
The route currently follows the Corridor up out of camp. The first major crevasse crossing is around 11,400 ft, with two options to cross. One option is going straight up over a plug (photo below), or working climbers left crossing a series of crevasses. Both crossings are getting trickier as they melt out. Many are opting to place protection to navigate this section, especially on the descent. The route then continues with several long, right-hand traverses to end run large crevasses, notably at 12,400 ft. and 13,000 ft. The last long right-hand traverse is at 13,400 ft. to end run the bergschrund and get to Liberty saddle. Surface conditions on the route have been great with wonderful cramponing for the majority of the route. There were many successful summits this last week!
Skiers:
The conditions on the upper mountain have made early morning descents in the sastrugi/wind-blown snow tricky. Careful and calculated skiing is required to descend the upper mountain - this is not a beginner ski mountaineering objective! It is worth considering dropping skis and walking trickier sections on the route. There are large open crevasses that would be extremely dangerous in the event of a fall on skis in the wrong spot. Remember to yield to climbers on foot as they have the right of way! Skiing down on top of other mountaineering parties is bad karma.
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The 11,400 straight route step
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The 12,400 crack which is being end run with a long right-hand traverse at the top of The Corridor |
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Surface conditions and the bergschrund at 13,600 which is being end run with another long right traverse. |
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Looking back at the long traverse under the 13,600 bergschrund |
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The bergschrund traverse ending at the saddle. |
Additional Information
It is strongly recommended that parties rope up to access or descend from Camp Schurman via the lower Emmons. There is a large crevasse complex just below camp that you have to cross. It is opening quickly, and bridges are getting thinner every day.
Secondly, many parties have been glissading the corridor above Schurman. This is a bad idea. There are crevasses in the corridor that are also growing as we speak.
Finally... Too many parties are abandoning climbing partners on the upper mountain. NEVER split up. If you are climbing, stay together. If you are skiing, stay close enough to see each other and spot each other.
Want to generate good camp karma? Use the bear boxes on the side of the ranger hut or burry your food deep in the snow. Ravens and finches have been raiding poorly stored food and can get into your tent. If you show up late to camp Schurman, you will also receive good camp karma by staying quite while you set up. Teams are likely sleeping for their early start, be courteous! Please remember to camp on the Winthrop at least 100’ away from the helicopter pad.
