DC Route Update 6/27/24

 June 27, 2024

This blog is maintained by the MRNP Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.

Overview

Recent warming is causing the route to evolve, crevasses are widening, snow bridges are beginning to weaken and thin, adjuncts and the best paths up and down the mountain may vary day to day.

In addition to all the hazards that are present when climbing Rainier, climbing parties should be prepared for:

• White out conditions
• Rock fall hazard, thin snow bridges, and crevasse falls

Disappointment Cleaver

The approach to Camp Muir has transitioned to the summer route, please follow trails, wands, and orange poles marking the route up to the pebble creek zone. This is the time of year when as the snow melts, old boot packs expose underlying vegetation and delicate alpine meadows. Sticking to marked trails and wanded routes helps your party travel on an easier route and limits impact on the environment. Please do your part to help these beautiful and delicate landscapes last for others to enjoy!

Photo showing approximate route on 6/24

Above Camp Muir the route takes a standard approach onto the Cleaver. The moat getting onto the cleaver has begun to open up. As of writing this blog post this hazard is manageable but as always, with time this could change.

Looking across the bowling alley towards the cleaver (~11,300ft)

Looking back at the traverse onto the Cleaver from The Nose (~11,450)

Looking up the Cleaver from The Nose (~11,450)

The Cleaver is approximately 60% snow, and parties are encouraged to keep crampons on while ascending/descending this feature. Managing slack by shortening the rope is also important to lessen the likelihood of knocking off loose rocks onto your partners or other parties. 

Looking up the Cleaver (~11,800ft)

*Ladder at 13,200ft

*After the above photo was taken the ladder was moved just to the right of where it is in this photo. It is now steeper than pictured and has an associated handline.

There are a few fixed pickets before this ladder as well as after. When temperatures are warm, and the solar radiation is intense, fixed pickets and other adjuncts can melt out and become weaker without attention. Climbers have been seen clipping pickets, while descending late in the day that are inches melted out of the glacier! The NPS does not maintain these route adjuncts and climbers are encouraged to inspect them and use their own judgment before using them. 

Additional Information 

Please be prepared to spend time filling out some paperwork when coming to pick up your permit at the PWIC or other issuing ranger stations. Even if you reserved a permit through Rec.gov we still need to gather more information from you!

Enjoy the park and have a safe climb.

-Climbing Rangers