June 12th 2024
This blog is maintained by the MRNP Climbing Ranger team for use by recreational non-guided climbers.
Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions.
The last week has brought sunny and seasonably warm weather to the mountain, starting the transition into summer conditions. Snow currently extends to near the Paradise Parking lot but things are melting out quick. Similarly, the Panorama Point approach still takes the winter route, but another few days of warm weather may move the route climber's left to the summer approach. Be prepared for patchy snow up to 7500' on the Camp Muir approach as warm weather continues.
From Camp Muir, the Cowlitz Glacier crossing remains straightforward, however Cathedral Gap is beginning to melt out and sections of exposed dirt and rock must be crossed in the last couple hundred feet to the top of the gap. Teams should be ready to shorten up rope spacing here where rock is encountered so the rope doesn't knock rock down onto parties below. Currently, the first significant crevasse crossings are encountered at Ingraham Flats, but most are still narrow and/or end runnable. High Crack is beginning to open but is still end runnable to climber's left.
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| The traverse from Ingraham Flats onto the lower Disappointment Cleaver |
The traverse to the cleaver below the Ice Box and Bowling Alley is becoming more active with the sun and snow melt. It is worth traveling with haste across. Coordinate with other teams passing through this hazardous area to minimize exposure to overhead hazards. A moat has opened up at the base of the Cleaver pushing the route downhill slightly to the lower Backboard access. Fixed lines are established along much of the cleaver, however they should only be used as hand lines and not clipped in to as fall protection. The Disappointment Cleaver itself is about 40% rock 60% snow and changing fast. Teams will once again want to shorten up rope lengths for the cleaver to minimize rockfall.
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| The lower backboard entrance to the cleaver. Please do not clip into the fixed lines |
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| The cleaver is starting to melt out and travel on rock more prevalent |
Modest snow slopes above the cleaver lead to the high crux of the route, beginning with a steep slope up to 50 degrees at about 12,700', and ending with an airy crevasse step up near 13,200'. There are fixed pickets in these locations that teams may clip their ropes into. Be sure to inspect all fixed protection before trusting them, and leave the pickets/carabiners there for other teams to use.
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| Looking up from the top of the Cleaver at the high crux of the current route between 12700 and 13200 |
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| The crevasse-step at 13200. Fixed pickets are in place for running protection currently |
Above 13,200' the route continues direct to the crater rim with several moderate crevasse crossings. These may widen if warm and sunny weather continues. As teams enter the summit crater, keep watch for moats and fumaroles along the margins of the crater and stay roped up as necessary. It's worth saying again that conditions and the current route track are changing rapidly this time of year. There are several points along the route that a minor change, such as crevasse widening, could significantly alter the route.
Screenshot of the a route to the summit crater as of 6.12.2024
