Dissapointment Cleaver 8/26/27

Muir Snowfield

Above Pebble Creek, the snowfield has many sections of ice exposed, flowing water, and small crevasses that are widening each day. Whether you are day-hiking to Muir or pushing for the summit, we recommend being prepared with traction devices such as micro-spikes or crampons to help increase your security when traveling on these firm and slick surfaces. 

Disappointment Cleaver

The general flow of the route is consistent with what it has been for the past few weeks. Some adjuncts have been removed (there is no longer a ladder at High Crack 11,400ft), and various ones have been added. Warm temperatures this past week have continued to change the upper mountain, and climbers should be prepared to manage Hazards and conditions, including but not limited to:

+Rock and Ice fall

+Cravasse Fall

+Weakening Snow Bridges

+Glacial Ice

+Moats

+Navigational Challenges

+Changing Weather and Poor Visibility

A Path to the Summit on 8/26

There are numerous snow bridges that the route crosses on the Cowlitz as teams head up towards the gap. As always, when traveling on glaciers, it is highly recommended that parties stay roped up. 

The moat getting onto and off the cleaver right now poses some challenges as the glacier melts away from the rock, leaving thin snow/ice bridges and the overhead hazard of rockfall coming from the bowling alley above. Parties are encouraged to travel expeditedly when traversing towards the Cleaver to limit the time they are exposed to the rock and seracs above. 

Looking down on the moat from the Cleaver. *The black tongue of ice (center) was 3-6" thick when this photo was taken on 8/26

Looking up from the top of the Cleaver 12,400' (Taken 8/26)

Above the Cleaver, there are numerous Ladders, Planks, Fixed Pickets, and Handlines.  The guide services work hard to place and maintain these elements of the route on the DC. The National Park Service does not maintain these adjuncts. Parties are encouraged to inspect these items before they walk across them or clip their rope team to them. Consider hammering in fixed pickets that may have melted out and/or placing your own protection. 

A plank bridging a cravasse at ~12,500' (Taken 8/26)

Taken at ~12,550' on 8/26

Ladder at ~12,600' (Taken 8/26)

Taken at 12,700' on 8/26

The above zone at ~12,700' has some of the more notable overhead hazard exposure on the route currently. Be attentive to where your team stops along the route and avoid spending more time than necessary in these zones. 

Ladder and Snowbridge at 12,600' (Taken 8/26). *Many parties are opting to use the snowbridge on the downhill side of this double ladder. 

Photo showing surface conditions above ~13,400ft (Taken 8/26)

Remember that the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains closed through September, and all climbing parties will need to bring their own tent/shelter.   

Muir Snowfield Conditions 8/22/25

 The Approach to Camp Muir is snow free until Pebble Creek. While you are enjoying the wildflowers, and wildlife please stay on the trail to minimize impact on our sensitive meadows.

Above Pebble Creek, the snowfield has sections of ice exposed, flowing water, and small crevasses that are widening each day. Whether you are day-hiking to Muir or pushing for the summit, we recommend being prepared with traction devices such as micro-spikes or crampons to help increase your security when traveling on these firm and slick surfaces. 

Looking up from 7,600ft (taken 8/21).

@ 9,150ft (taken 8/21)

@ 9,150ft (taken 8/21)

Crevasses @ 9,450ft (taken 8/21)

Crevasse with a weak snow bridge @ 9,450ft (taken 8/21)

The iciest sections of the snowfield are currently above ~8,600ft. In general, staying climbers right when ascending have the most favorable conditions and some parties have opted to gain the rock for better traction. 

As always, please take good note of conditions while you are ascending and make a plan for how you want to descend. 

Disappointment Cleaver 8/17/25

As we transition into the late-summer climbing season, the conditions on the Mountain are becoming more dynamic and the Disappointment Cleaver Route is changing daily, from the Muir Snowfield to the summit.

A strong weather system moved through Mount Rainier National Park starting 8/14 and lasted through 8/16. This brought close to 3" of water at Paradise, snow above 12,000' and extreme winds. The mountain has been experiencing continued strong winds with low lying clouds throughout the last few days. Looking at the extended forecast we may see a return to seasonally warm temperatures by the end of the week. 

Snow on the Cleaver 8/17/25

The storm brought an unknown amount of snow to the upper mountain - with this change the guide-maintained route is no longer established. Wands exist throughout but as of 8/18/25 - there is no beaten in route above the cleaver. Guide teams are working to reestablish their route. A team summited on 8/18, with a few others reaching various elevations around 13,000' since. The bulk of changes to the DC route have occurred above the Cleaver itself, for an in-depth update on the route from Paradise to the Cleaver - reference the last blog post. 

Several Inches new snow around 13000' - 8/17/25

The change in conditions has by no means rendered the DC route unclimbable, however it introduces more considerations when thinking about a summit attempt. Firm conditions exist above the Cleaver with new snow obscuring some of the surface expression making identifying crevasses potentially more challenging. Two ladders exist on route currently, one at high crack and one around 12,400' after the traverse from the top of the Cleaver. 

A ladder on the traverse from the Cleaver to the Emmons Shoulder - 8/17/25

Three ways to consider mountain hazards apart from weather are:

• Falling into the mountain: As always, crevasse hazard is present on the mountain. Climbers will encounter a few ladders throughout the route as it exists right now. Above the Cleaver, parties should anticipate a multitude of crossings and implement appropriate risk management strategies.
• Falling off the mountain: With the most recent storm, snow surfaces above the cleaver have become smooth, firm and more planar. The potential of taking a long sliding fall is a real risk with climbing conditions as they are above the cleaver. Appropriate protection and competent movement skills is paramount.
• The mountain falling on you: Climbing rangers noted increased rockfall through the bowling alley, potentially due to increased moisture from the recent storm combined with freeze thaw. Stay alert to any amount of overhead hazard and choose break locations to limit exposure.

Climbers traverse back towards the Cleaver 8/17/25

The Approach

The approach is snow-free from Paradise to Pebble Creek, with abundant wildlife, wildflowers, and free-flowing water. The Muir Snowfield has some sections of bare ice and flowing water, which may pose a hazard in cool temperatures when the surface freezes and becomes slippery. Be prepared to use crampons or micro spikes if freezing levels are forecasted to be around 10,000 ft.  Cracks are beginning to emerge on the snowfield with patches of ice becoming exposed. Keep eyes open and follow an appropriate route.

New crevasses are opening up left and right at Camp Muir, so use caution when setting up your tent and remember that once you step off of the rocks at camp you are on the Cowlitz Glacier. Consider probing your campsite and use careful footing when traveling from camp to your tent, especially at the interface between rock and ice where hidden cracks exist. 

Crevasses at Camp Muir 8/9/25

Other Considerations

The public shelter remains closed for renovations with the emergency radio now residing in the bathroom closest to the Helipad. As the climbing season moves into the latter part of August rangers have seen a wide array of preparedness on the mountain. A small daypack - or no pack at all is likely not enough gear to safely climb Mount Rainier. Additionally, not wearing helmets while climbing is ill advised. 

Disappointment Cleaver Route Update 8/12/2025

 Overview

As we transition into the late-summer climbing season, the conditions on the Mountain are becoming more dynamic and the Disappointment Cleaver Route is changing daily, from the Muir Snowfield to the summit. 

A steady period of high pressure ended with precipitation on Wednesday, 8/6, bringing low amounts of snowfall to the upper mountain and heavy rain from Camp Muir and below. This was followed by increasingly warm and dry conditions, with the freezing level hovering well above the summit at 16,500’. 

Moving into the second week of August, temperatures are forecasted to drop, along with an increased chance of precipitation. These unstable weather conditions will occur more frequently as the region transitions into autumn. During this dynamic part of the climbing season, the main hazards include: 

• Rapidly changing weather conditions

• Crevasse falls due to changing snow surface conditions

• Overhead rock and ice fall

Approaching Ingraham Flats with Disappointment Cleaver in the background on 8/9/25

Disappointment Cleaver Route

The approach is snow-free from Paradise to Pebble Creek, with abundant wildlife, wildflowers, and free-flowing water. The Muir Snowfield has some sections of bare ice and flowing water, which may pose a hazard in cool temperatures when the surface freezes and becomes slippery. Be prepared to use crampons or micro spikes if freezing levels are forecasted to be well below 10,000 ft. 

New crevasses are opening up left and right at Camp Muir, so use caution when setting up your tent and remember that once you step off of the rocks at camp you are on the Cowlitz Glacier. Consider probing your campsite and use careful footing when traveling from camp to your tent, especially at the interface between rock and ice where hidden cracks exist. 

Crevasses opening up at Camp Muir.

An unlucky climber punched a leg into this crevasse unintentionally on 8/9/25.

The same location as the photo above, just two days later, had increased in size and appeared to be 15' deep on 8/11/25.

The Cowlitz Glacier crossing has more crevasses opening up along the route, so use the appropriate rope length spacing when ascending and descending this section. We’ve seen several parties traveling very close together when descending after a long climb, but don’t get complacent on the descent when snow conditions are likely the warmest and bridges are weakest. 

Dunn’s Roll, just past Cathedral Gap, is an area of active rockfall and potentially confusing navigation, especially when traveling in the dark. Look for wands and avoid lingering anywhere that rock debris is strewn across the route. 

A clear, starry night at Camp Muir. Headlamps can be seen scattered across the Cowlitz Glacier and Cathedral Gap (8/9/25).

On the Ingraham Glacier, the High Crack ladder is still in place, followed by several snow-bridge crossings. Move quickly through the Ice Box and Bowling Alley, especially if parties are traveling on the upper Disappointment Cleaver when your party is below them. Strategically plan your breaks/rests by choosing areas with less overhead hazard and account for traffic along the route. 

The Disappointment Cleaver itself remains unchanged: use careful footing to avoid kicking rocks on parties below you and keep your rope up off the ground by shortening the rope interval between climbers.

From the top of the Cleaver, looking right at the "new" traverse (8/9/25).

The route has recently experienced the most change above the Disappointment Cleaver. From the top of the Cleaver, there is a new traverse to the north/climber’s right onto the Emmons shoulder. Look for wands and fresh boot-prints traveling up and right around 12,500 ft, immediately above the cleaver. The “old route” went directly up from the Cleaver and should be blocked with wands in an ‘X’, but note that these wands often fall over or become less visible. The traverse maintains a consistent elevation, and at roughly 12,600’, there is a double ladder set up at a ~25° angle. There is a snow plug just downhill from the ladder that is also a crossing option at the time of writing this update. Several fixed pickets exist around the ladder for protection.

The guiding services maintain the route and this equipment but it is available for public use; be respectful of this equipment and any guides you encounter on the route and in camp. They did a lot of hard work this week to get the new route variation in place, so thank them if you get the chance!

8/9/2025 Route Track

Looking up at the double ladder. Approx. 12,600'. The snow plug can be seen on the right hand side of the photo (8/9/25).

Looking down on the double ladder at 12,600 ft on 8/9/25.

From the ladder, the route travels up and then begins to switch back before the final ascending traverse to the crater rim (see photo of track). Again, keep a heads up on the descent for rapidly changing snow or weather conditions, assess every crevasse crossing and consider using techniques like belaying to get your party through terrain. Be safe, have fun, and we look forward to seeing you all out on the Mountain.

A climber traverses back to the top of the Cleaver on 8/9/25.

Additional Information 

More information on climbing on Mt. Rainier can be found on the Mt. Rainier National Park Climbing Page. Here, you will find information about how to pay the Annual Climbing Fee, obtain a Climbing Permit, and make reservations. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open daily from 07:30-17:00.

Looking south from Camp Muir under full moonlight during the early morning hours of 8/11/25.

Camp Schurman -Emmons Winthrop Route Season Winding Down

While there are still a couple weeks of August left on the calendar, the summer climbing season on the camp Schurman side of the mountain seems to be winding down. The guide services wrapped up their last Emmons trip on August 7th and there have been few to no independent climbers in camp the last two weeks. The climbing ranger crew is beginning to winterize camp and focusing more on the Camp Muir-DC corridor as we head towards fall. Don't let this deter you from coming up to enjoy the Emmons side of the mountain, but climbers and/or day hikers to Camp Schurman should be prepared for a different experience this time of year.

The Emmons-Winthrop Glaciers from Steamboat Prow on 08/09/25

-The Inter Glacier has several long sections of exposed glacial ice and opening crevasses making travel much more technical. Be cautious with moats getting on/off the Inter and around rock outcroppings, running water and higher flow in creeks on warm days, and that a slip on the ice could lead to a very long fall. 

Looking down the Inter Glacier from below Camp Curtis. Note the several sections of exposed glacier ice

-Once camp Schurman is winterized, there will be no bathrooms open. We will leave a blue bag barrel out for the winter for 'deposits'. There is still potential for the heli-pad to be used so please do not camp on the pad. Crevasses are opening up close to camp so probe your tent site for cracks before setting up, and be diligent to rope up for glacier travel before moving out of camp; there are crevasses within 30' of some old tent pads.

-A permit is still required to camp in the wilderness, as well as the paying the Climbing Cost Recovery fee if you are climbing. The White River Wilderness Information Center near the White River Entrance will be open through early October so make sure to stop and in and say hi. 

-Climbers on the Emmons side should prepare for a remote, wilderness glacier climb, and transitioning fall weather/surface conditions on the upper mountain. Any remaining boot packs may be unreliable routes, and climbers should plan to route find their own way. Come prepared with the appropriate equipment and skill sets to manage long sections of exposed glacial ice, wide and marginal crevasse crossings, and potential for a circuitous route around unpassable crevasses. Additionally, do not expect to see anyone else on the route or at camp; you will be on your own and a rescue could take several days for anyone to reach you. 

The lower Emmons glacier in lean, late summer form

Thanks for a great summer at Schurman, enjoy the fall and winter. We look forward to seeing you all next summer!

Disappointment Cleaver Update 8/5/2025

 

August!?!?  Wow, the summer has flown by.  The Disappointment Cleaver Route has stayed in great shape these last couple of weeks and the cooler weather this week has kept upper-mountain conditions fairly firm.  Take a look a the last couple of Disappointment Cleaver Posts to get an idea of updated route details.  Also, check out the DC Route Brief for thorough information on climbing the route.  

The first stormy weather of August approaches the mountain this week, with upper level troughs passing over the park.  It's about that time of year where the long days of high pressure fronts are fading and checking the forecast becomes critical to the safety of any summit push.  

Remember that the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains closed through September and all climbing parties will need to bring their own tent/shelter.