Winter Climbing

Happy New Year!

A stretch of relatively clear weather is currently forecast between January 13 and January 20, and we want to take a moment to share current conditions and several important considerations for anyone planning a winter climb of Mount Rainier.

Winter Weather Windows and Climb Success

Statistically, dry weather windows like this occur most years between mid-January and mid-February. Historically, there is a noticeable increase in summit success during this period, often peaking around the third week of January. Success rates during these windows can approach typical summer averages of 55–60%.

However, the devil is in the details.

Winter climbing on Mount Rainier is inherently difficult to plan. While these short weather windows do occur, they tend to favor climbers who live locally, have flexible schedules, and—most importantly—have significant experience on the mountain during the regular climbing season.

For teams with limited experience in glaciated terrain or winter alpine conditions, this may not be an appropriate time to attempt your first climb.  Let's dive deeper.

Access and Permits

• Please arrive having already paid your climbing fee: here.

• Wilderness permits are issued via self-registration in the foyer of the small A-frame ranger station at the upper Paradise parking lot.

Facilities and Emergency Infrastructure

• The public shelter at Camp Muir is closed. The door is boarded and locked. Planned repair work was not completed in the fall.

  • Access to the shelter is emergency-only and requires using the emergency radio to contact dispatch. Declaring an emergency to gain access will initiate a rescue response.

• The emergency radio has been relocated to the first restroom building nearest the helipad.

Equipment and Self-Sufficiency

• Bring the full complement of winter or arctic camping gear necessary to remain self-sufficient—even if your plan is to camp only at Camp Muir.

• Leave the parking lot with detailed maps, whether digital or paper.

  • If relying on a phone, bring an external battery, use airplane mode, and save social media posting until after your climb.

Search and Rescue Realities

It is critical to understand how winter rescue differs from summer operations:

• During the summer season, climbing rangers are staffed daily and often stationed at Camp Muir and Camp Schurman, with dedicated training and aviation support.

• This infrastructure does not exist in winter.

• Reaching an injured climber may take a full day or many more, even in favorable weather. In some cases, depending on location, conditions, and weather, no team may be able to respond for several days.

• The park does not maintain an exclusive-use helicopter contract during the winter.

If you are injured on the mountain—particularly above high camps—the likelihood of same-day assistance is significantly reduced.

Avalanche Conditions

Finally, stay tuned in to the snowpack.  Use the skills you learned in your US Level 1 and 2 courses.

• Although we've suffered through extreme weather events in the last three months, both droughts and atmospheric rivers, there is A LOT of new snow on Mount Rainier.

• The high elevation of Mount Rainier presents its own unique avalanche phenomena neither exactly like continental nor maritime environments!

Conditions Update @ Muir, Wednesday January 14, 2026

Made it to Camp Muir this morning for a quick conditions check.

• Pan Point is a little confusing as there is a lack of snow.  I think the normal winter gulley is the good call.  The summer trail is steep and there is a nice cliff under the traverse track making the consequences of a fall rather dire!
• Conditions were smooth as the sun worked its magic up to about 7500.
• 7500 onwards the snow became increasingly firm.
• By 9000’, yeah it was kind of terrifying.  Definitely recommend ski crampons.
• Took off skis at 9800 and booted it the last 200’
• Muir is “iced-in”.  All that moisture from a month ago is water ice all over Muir.
• It took me 10 minutes to make my way over to the public shelter from the ranger station!  I recommend crampons or micro-spikes just making your way around Muir.
• The toilet is iced-in.  I recommend blue bagging your waste so grab those at Paradise before you head up!
• I’ll post some photos here when I make it back down tonight.

Don't forget to pay the fee and self-register at the Old Station and have a great time!

Winter Season

First - the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains CLOSED. It will remain closed until the Park Service can finish up the remodel and get the equipment out of the structure.  In the case of an emergency, the emergency radio is now in the first toilet next to the helipad.  You'll see the antenna on the roof of the building.  Make a call to "Dispatch, this is the [Last Name] party at Camp Muir".  You'll hear "This is dispatch, go ahead."  Then state your emergency and desire to use the public shelter.

Conditions on the upper mountain have changed - a thin blanket of new snow now covers the skeletal glacial ice and rocky ridges above high camps.  Unsettled weather for the next couple days will continue to add snow to the upper mountain and make conditions difficult for any summit attempt.  During this winter off-season there are virtually no other climbers on the mountain.  Guide services ceased operations weeks ago, and rangers are only sporadically staffing high camps for end-of-season projects.  

Any summit attempts this time of year should be considered a serious venture - it's definitely not the time of year for parties to attempt the mountain for the first time.  All parties who climb this time of year should be self-reliant and carry extra equipment so that they have contingency resources.

ALL CLIMBERS MUST:

1. Pay the climbing fee

2. Obtain a climbing permit

You can pay the fee online at Pay.Gov and you can obtain a permit via self-registration at Paradise and at the White River Ranger Station.  Please remember to check out after your climb by submitting your climbing permit back at the ranger station after your climb.  See the blog post below for more details on registration now that it's the "winter" season.  

These moments of transition from late summer to the start of winter add extra hazards.  Thinly covered crevasses, new avalanche problems, longer storm cycles and colder temperatures can all add up to dangerous conditions.  Please use extra caution in any winter climbing or skiing attempt.  And, while it can be rewarding to have solitude up high on the mountain, please do it safely!

Have a great winter and see you next spring! 

Climber Self-Registration Begins September 11th

Where did the summer go? With the return of fall, operations and services at Mount Rainier will begin to decrease. Climbing Permits are still required through the fall and winter for traveling on Mount Rainier above 10,000 feet or on glaciers. Self-registration for climbers in Paradise begins Monday September 8th, 2025 and the Paradise Wilderness Information Center will close September 7th. There will be a self-registration box located outside the Old Ranger Station in Paradise. As winter approaches a large tunnel will be put in front of the door of the Old Station to keep the Self-Reg kiosk and stairs snow-free. Walk through this tunnel and find the self-registration box with instructions at the end of the walkway. This is open 24/7 for registration, even if no one is staffing it - follow the directions on the kiosk.

Self Registration is at the Paradise Ranger Station near the center of the photo.

Climbers can still register in-person (which we recommend) in Longmire and White River Ranger Stations. Check the park's operating hours and pay special attention to the date at which the operating hours change as we move into winter. The White River Wilderness Information Center will be staffed until October 9th, 2023. After that date, there will be a self-registration box on the outside of the Wilderness Information Center as well until the road closes for the season. The Longmire Wilderness Information Center will also close around then and move their operations to the Longmire Museum for the winter. 

There are two things required to climb in the off-season. The first is to pay the online Annual Climber Cost Recovery Fee. The second is to use the self-registration stations at Paradise or White River to fill out your permit. 

Filling out your self-registration permit completely will help any necessary search and rescue efforts - please take the time to get it right! The full list of instructions will be located at both self-registration stations. You will fill out a sheet (front and back) at the ranger station and leave it in the drop box, you don't carry the permit on you. Please remember when you get off the mountain to fill out the return slip at the station and put in the drop box as well to check out from the field. 

As summer turns to winter, our seasonal staff starts to migrate away from the mountain. High camps will only be staffed very occasionally, search and rescue operations will be delayed, and the park's exclusive-use SAR helicopter will be departing the park by late September. Please keep in mind that during the winters, there aren't rangers actively staffing the high camps to talk about conditions or weather. It is recommended that climbers are prepared to be very self-sufficient as any rescue efforts could take days! 

Disappointment Cleaver 9/8/2025

Welcome to September! 

As we move further into late summer season, conditions on the mountain have been rapidly transitioning from the snowfield to the summit.  Here's a quick run down on what's going on right now and into the winter on the mountain:

Muir Snowfield:

As stated in the previous blogpost, all parties headed up the Muir Snowfield should be prepared for sections of bare-ice, flowing water, and crevasses large enough to fall into. Please be ready with traction devices for footwear such as micro-spikes or crampons, trekking poles, and gloves. These icy and crevassed sections can catch people off guard if not properly prepared.  Be especially cautious if we get a fresh dusting of snow which can hide these hazards from view.  

Camp Muir:

Remember that the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains closed through September, and all climbing parties will need to bring their own tent/shelter.   This makes conservative decision making during stormy weather important - there's no backup shelter to retreat to during lightning storms.   

Significantly sized crevasses have opened up in camp and continue to grow with warm temperatures.  This makes finding a campsite at Camp Muir difficult.  Please plan on camping on the snow, double check that your site doesn't have crevasses underneath and isn't prone to rockfall, and bring a shovel or adze to flatten out the tent site.  The crevasses near Camp Muir are now large enough a person can certainly fall in.

Please travel around camp with caution - there's been active rockfall on the ridges around camp and the danger of an unroped crevasse fall cannot be overstated.  

Disappointment Cleaver Route:

The upper mountain swiftly moves into "late season" conditions with significant crevasse, serac fall, and rockfall hazard throughout the route. 

All three guide services AAI, RMI and IMG have officially ceased guiding operations for the season, citing deteriorating conditions at the Cleaver entrance and upper route as the primary factors for this decision.  They've pulled all of the route adjuncts - no more ladders, hand lines or "fixed-pickets" are in place right now.  This means that any independent climbers must be prepared to navigate around large crevasse openings and prepared to protect steeper loose rock steps.  

The entrance on to the Cleaver has been the primary limiting factor for both guided parties and independent parties alike due to significant objective hazard. A widening moat between the Cleaver and Ingraham Glacier at 11,400 feet coupled with excessive rockfall and poor footing poses a risk decision that climbing parties must assess for themselves. 

Above the Cleaver, conditions have also continued to degrade without regular maintenance provided by the guide services. Independent teams should plan to navigate without relying on previously installed equipment and be prepared for complex route-finding and rapidly evolving hazards.  There will not be wands on the route marking a way to the summit.  

Late-season climbers should exercise heightened caution, assess conditions carefully, and have technical skills necessary for a truly independent and an unguided route. Good teamwork and conservative decision making are paramount for a successful trip on Mount Rainier. 

Dissapointment Cleaver 8/26/25

Muir Snowfield

Above Pebble Creek, the snowfield has many sections of ice exposed, flowing water, and small crevasses that are widening each day. Whether you are day-hiking to Muir or pushing for the summit, we recommend being prepared with traction devices such as micro-spikes or crampons to help increase your security when traveling on these firm and slick surfaces. 

Disappointment Cleaver

The general flow of the route is consistent with what it has been for the past few weeks. Some adjuncts have been removed (there is no longer a ladder at High Crack 11,400ft), and various ones have been added. Warm temperatures this past week have continued to change the upper mountain, and climbers should be prepared to manage hazards and conditions, including but not limited to:

+Rock and Ice fall

+Cravasse Fall

+Weakening Snow Bridges

+Glacial Ice

+Moats

+Navigational Challenges

+Changing Weather and Poor Visibility

A Path to the Summit on 8/26

There are numerous snow bridges that the route crosses on the Cowlitz as teams head up towards the gap. As always, when traveling on glaciers, it is highly recommended that parties stay roped up. 

The moat getting onto and off the cleaver right now poses some challenges as the glacier melts away from the rock, leaving thin snow/ice bridges and the overhead hazard of rockfall coming from the bowling alley above. Parties are encouraged to travel expeditedly when traversing towards the Cleaver to limit the time they are exposed to the rock and seracs above. 

Looking down on the moat from the Cleaver. *The black tongue of ice (center) was 3-6" thick when this photo was taken on 8/26

Looking up from the top of the Cleaver 12,400' (Taken 8/26)

Above the Cleaver, there are numerous Ladders, Planks, Fixed Pickets, and Handlines.  The guide services work hard to place and maintain these elements of the route on the DC. The National Park Service does not maintain these adjuncts. Parties are encouraged to inspect these items before they walk across them or clip their rope team to them. Consider hammering in fixed pickets that may have melted out and/or placing your own protection. 

A plank bridging a cravasse at ~12,500' (Taken 8/26)

Taken at ~12,550' on 8/26

Ladder at ~12,600' (Taken 8/26)

Taken at 12,700' on 8/26

The above zone at ~12,700' has some of the more notable overhead hazard exposure on the route currently. Be attentive to where your team stops along the route and avoid spending more time than necessary in these zones. 

Ladder and Snowbridge at 12,600' (Taken 8/26). *Many parties are opting to use the snowbridge on the downhill side of this double ladder. 

Photo showing surface conditions above ~13,400ft (Taken 8/26)

Remember that the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains closed through September, and all climbing parties will need to bring their own tent/shelter.   

Muir Snowfield Conditions 8/22/25

 The Approach to Camp Muir is snow free until Pebble Creek. While you are enjoying the wildflowers, and wildlife please stay on the trail to minimize impact on our sensitive meadows.

Above Pebble Creek, the snowfield has sections of ice exposed, flowing water, and small crevasses that are widening each day. Whether you are day-hiking to Muir or pushing for the summit, we recommend being prepared with traction devices such as micro-spikes or crampons to help increase your security when traveling on these firm and slick surfaces. 

Looking up from 7,600ft (taken 8/21).

@ 9,150ft (taken 8/21)

@ 9,150ft (taken 8/21)

Crevasses @ 9,450ft (taken 8/21)

Crevasse with a weak snow bridge @ 9,450ft (taken 8/21)

The iciest sections of the snowfield are currently above ~8,600ft. In general, staying climbers right when ascending have the most favorable conditions and some parties have opted to gain the rock for better traction. 

As always, please take good note of conditions while you are ascending and make a plan for how you want to descend.