Above Pebble Creek, the snowfield has many sections of ice exposed, flowing water, and small crevasses that are widening each day. Whether you are day-hiking to Muir or pushing for the summit, we recommend being prepared with traction devices such as micro-spikes or crampons to help increase your security when traveling on these firm and slick surfaces.
Disappointment Cleaver
The general flow of the route is consistent with what it has been for the past few weeks. Some adjuncts have been removed (there is no longer a ladder at High Crack 11,400ft), and various ones have been added. Warm temperatures this past week have continued to change the upper mountain, and climbers should be prepared to manage Hazards and conditions, including but not limited to:
+Rock and Ice fall
+Cravasse Fall
+Weakening Snow Bridges
+Glacial Ice
+Moats
+Navigational Challenges
+Changing Weather and Poor Visibility
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| A Path to the Summit on 8/26 |
There are numerous snow bridges that the route crosses on the Cowlitz as teams head up towards the gap. As always, when traveling on glaciers, it is highly recommended that parties stay roped up.
The moat getting onto and off the cleaver right now poses some challenges as the glacier melts away from the rock, leaving thin snow/ice bridges and the overhead hazard of rockfall coming from the bowling alley above. Parties are encouraged to travel expeditedly when traversing towards the Cleaver to limit the time they are exposed to the rock and seracs above.
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| Looking down on the moat from the Cleaver. *The black tongue of ice (center) was 3-6" thick when this photo was taken on 8/26 |
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| Looking up from the top of the Cleaver 12,400' (Taken 8/26) |
Above the Cleaver, there are numerous Ladders, Planks, Fixed Pickets, and Handlines. The guide services work hard to place and maintain these elements of the route on the DC. The National Park Service does not maintain these adjuncts. Parties are encouraged to inspect these items before they walk across them or clip their rope team to them. Consider hammering in fixed pickets that may have melted out and/or placing your own protection.
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| A plank bridging a cravasse at ~12,500' (Taken 8/26) |
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| Taken at ~12,550' on 8/26 |
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| Ladder at ~12,600' (Taken 8/26) |
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| Taken at 12,700' on 8/26 |
The above zone at ~12,700' has some of the more notable overhead hazard exposure on the route currently. Be attentive to where your team stops along the route and avoid spending more time than necessary in these zones.
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| Ladder and Snowbridge at 12,600' (Taken 8/26). *Many parties are opting to use the snowbridge on the downhill side of this double ladder. |
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| Photo showing surface conditions above ~13,400ft (Taken 8/26) |
Remember that the Public Shelter at Camp Muir remains closed through September, and all climbing parties will need to bring their own tent/shelter.
