Welcome to September!
As we move further into late summer season, conditions on the mountain have been rapidly transitioning from the snowfield to the summit.
Muir Snowfield:
As stated in the previous blogpost, all parties headed up the Snowfield should be prepared for sections of bare-ice, flowing water, and crevasses large enough to "fall into" at this point. Please be ready with traction devices for footwear such as micro-spikes or crampons, trekking poles, and gloves. These icy and crevassed sections can catch people off guard if not properly prepared.
Camp Muir:
Significantly sized crevasses have opened up in camp and continue to grow with warm temperatures. These crevasses are now large enough a person can certainly fall in. There are still places in between crevasses where parties can pitch their tent.
Please travel around camp with caution.
Disappointment Cleaver Route:
The upper mountain swiftly moves into "late season" conditions with significant crevasse, serac fall, and rockfall hazard throughout the route.
Guide services RMI and IMG have officially ceased guiding operations for the season, citing deteriorating conditions at the Cleaver entrance and upper route as the primary factors for this decision.
The entrance on to the Cleaver has been the primary limiting factor for both guided parties and independent parties alike due to significant objective hazard. A widening moat between the Cleaver and glacier coupled with excessive rockfall and poor footing poses a risk decision that climbing parties must assess for themselves.
Above the Cleaver, conditions have also continued to degrade without regular maintenance provided by the guide services. There are reports of ladders having fallen into crevasses on the upper mountain and adjuncts (fixed lines, pickets, ladders, etc.) no longer secure or properly anchored. Assess all fixed adjuncts on the upper mountain. Independent teams should plan to navigate without relying on previously installed equipment and be prepared for complex route-finding and rapidly evolving hazards.
Late-season climbers should exercise heightened caution, assess conditions carefully, and have technical skills necessary for a truly independent and an unguided route. Good teamwork and conservative decision making are paramount for a successful trip on Mount Rainier.
