Kautz Glacier Route 2020 Update

The Kautz glacier route is in good climbing condition. The approach for the climbing route can be started from two different locations. The the most common approach starts from Paradise and crosses the Nisqually and Wilson glaciers. The alternate approach starts downhill from paradise at the Comet Falls trailhead. The Comet Falls approach is longer with more elevating gain starting at an elevation of 3,700'. Comet falls is the preferred late season approach with its well developed trail and ample water access that is snow free up to 7,600'. Trail runners instead of clunky mountain boots for this section of the approach can be a bonus if you don't mind carrying them later once you switch out footwear.

Climber on the approach trail with Comet Falls in the background.

The snowfield starting at 7,600 to the castle at 9,300' is covered with large sun-cups. These "cups" will continue to be more pronounced as the summer wears on. Be prepared for slower travel up these slopes with lots of mini zigzags to navigate the terrain. Regardless of what time of day you hit the snow-line you should plan on using your climbing boots. The slopes become steep enough that you will need to kick-in steps. If it is late in the day and the snow is beginning to firm up then crampons will be necessary also. 

View of upper Van Trump with the Castle visible along the right hand skyline. 

The Castle has many good bivy options and running water sources. This is a reasonable location to start an upper mountain climb from, but realized that it is still 2,000' below Camp Hazard. The Turtle snowfield located between the Castle and Camp Hazard is sun-cupped with mostly firm snow and glacier ice. Having an ice tool in-hand along this section could come in useful. Camp Hazard at 11,300 has many good bivy locations as well, but water is scarce this time of year and you may have to spend some time searching. 

Sunrise on the Turtle snowfield with sun-cups visible along the snow

The fixed rappel lines leaving the Wapowety cleaver at 11,300' are in reasonable condition. Using the fixed ropes, climbing teams should be able to either rappel or down-climb off the cleaver onto the transition slopes that lead out to the Kautz glacier. Please remember that fixed soft goods are always subject to damage and should be assessed for safety before using. 

View from the rock step and transition slopes at 11,300' 

The transition slops leading out to the glacier are comprised of rock scree and ice. The glacier that extends above these transition slopes holds a large active ice fall that can catch you off guard and send you running. Many parties manage this section by not roping up until they are clear of this deposition zone. Once you reach the main climbing slopes of the Kautz glacier you will find the first 200' of the route to be low angle ice. This lower ice section can be climbed using various techniques with a minimum number of ice screws. The transition zone between the lower and upper ice pitches is firm snow and is walkable. 

Climber approaching the upper ice pitches on the Kautz glacier

The main ice climbing headwall is 300' tall and can be climbed easily in two pitches with a 60m rope. Simul-climbing would be a good option for skilled parties that want to move quickly through this section. The climbing at it's steepest point is approximately 50 degrees. Six to eight ice screws with draws would be a reasonable number of pieces of protection for this section of ice climbing.  The ice slopes hold shade for most of the morning hours, but there is running water along these icy slopes so keep an eye out for opportunities as you climb. The ice climbing tops out at 12,000' with a view of Point Success and the upper Wapowety cleaver. 

Climber topping out on the ice climbing pitches.

Glacier travel across the upper Kautz alpine bowl to the upper Wapowety is covered with numerous crevasses. Many of the cracks leading out above the ice climbing are small enough to step across without much end running. As you approach the scree slopes of the Wapowety the crevasses get larger and end running will be necessary. Climbers can expect to encounter moats along the rock slopes of the Wapowety where the cleaver meets the glacier.  

Climber crossing a snow bridge over the bergschrund near the crater rim.

From the top of the Wapowety at 13,000' you can see the crater rim on a clear day. Crossing the upper slopes of the Nisqually teams will encounter more crevasses, trail breaking through knee high penitentes,  and a large bergschrund near the top. The schrund can be end run in either direction. This route is a true mountain experience and should not be missed. Have fun, be safe, climb smart!