The DC route is due for a change and the guides are busy working on a re-route.
The current track has held up well, but the recent spell of warm weather has caused many of the crevasses to open significantly and for the Ingraham/Cleaver transition (the Bowling Alley) to become more difficult.
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| Looking at the Bowling Alley from the Ingraham Glacier, ~11,400' |
Getting off the glacier and onto the rock requires some scrambling in loose blocks with overhead hazard. Move through this area as quickly and safely as possible and don't let your rope get caught up in the rocks.
We expect a transition to the classic late-season line from the top of the cleaver out to the Emmons Shoulder but the guides may find a more direct option. Either way, expect them to keep the route established but be aware of dynamic events such as snow bridge collapses and ice fall that may necessitate your own route finding.
Several parties climbed into clouds on the upper mountain in the last week so we'd also like you to please keep in mind that navigating through a heavily crevassed, high elevation glacier in a white-out is a risky endeavor at best.
Climb safe!
