Thursday, August 23, 2018

DC update from 8/22

Track of DC route on 8/22
In the last week the DC has stayed relatively the same with some minor changes. Of course, with the freezing level having been above the summit some of the days this week, all the crevasse bridges have only thinned. The objective hazards of rock fall, ice and serac fall, and crevasse falls are high this time of year.

Due to minor route alterations, the number of ladders change almost from day to day. Be sure to assess these before crossing them, especially on the descent, in case they have melted out.

The route goes slightly further up the Ingraham Glacier out of the flats before dropping down and traversing toward the cleaver itself, which is all loose rock.  Be especially careful at this point on the route.  The thin glacial rib used to access the cleaver is prone to rockfall from above, has steep firm icy footing itself, and a significant moat below.  At the top of the cleaver the route now veers slightly up and left before cutting right through the crevasse jumble formed by the glacier splitting around the cleaver. And the traverse up high toward the Nisqually Glacier has taken a slightly higher route.

All and all, this route takes a higher level of skill, more physical fitness, and larger acceptance of risk than it did in July and early-August.  Be sure to keep your head up and move efficiently through the numerous exposed spots, and always assess a bridge crossing before taking it.