Disappointment Cleaver Route Update 8/12/2025

 Overview

As we transition into the late-summer climbing season, the conditions on the Mountain are becoming more dynamic and the Disappointment Cleaver Route is changing daily, from the Muir Snowfield to the summit. 

A steady period of high pressure ended with precipitation on Wednesday, 8/6, bringing low amounts of snowfall to the upper mountain and heavy rain from Camp Muir and below. This was followed by increasingly warm and dry conditions, with the freezing level hovering well above the summit at 16,500’. 

Moving into the second week of August, temperatures are forecasted to drop, along with an increased chance of precipitation. These unstable weather conditions will occur more frequently as the region transitions into autumn. During this dynamic part of the climbing season, the main hazards include: 

• Rapidly changing weather conditions

• Crevasse falls due to changing snow surface conditions

• Overhead rock and ice fall

Approaching Ingraham Flats with Disappointment Cleaver in the background on 8/9/25

Disappointment Cleaver Route

The approach is snow-free from Paradise to Pebble Creek, with abundant wildlife, wildflowers, and free-flowing water. The Muir Snowfield has some sections of bare ice and flowing water, which may pose a hazard in cool temperatures when the surface freezes and becomes slippery. Be prepared to use crampons or micro spikes if freezing levels are forecasted to be well below 10,000 ft. 

New crevasses are opening up left and right at Camp Muir, so use caution when setting up your tent and remember that once you step off of the rocks at camp you are on the Cowlitz Glacier. Consider probing your campsite and use careful footing when traveling from camp to your tent, especially at the interface between rock and ice where hidden cracks exist. 

Crevasses opening up at Camp Muir.

An unlucky climber punched a leg into this crevasse unintentionally on 8/9/25.

The same location as the photo above, just two days later, had increased in size and appeared to be 15' deep on 8/11/25.

The Cowlitz Glacier crossing has more crevasses opening up along the route, so use the appropriate rope length spacing when ascending and descending this section. We’ve seen several parties traveling very close together when descending after a long climb, but don’t get complacent on the descent when snow conditions are likely the warmest and bridges are weakest. 

Dunn’s Roll, just past Cathedral Gap, is an area of active rockfall and potentially confusing navigation, especially when traveling in the dark. Look for wands and avoid lingering anywhere that rock debris is strewn across the route. 

A clear, starry night at Camp Muir. Headlamps can be seen scattered across the Cowlitz Glacier and Cathedral Gap (8/9/25).

On the Ingraham Glacier, the High Crack ladder is still in place, followed by several snow-bridge crossings. Move quickly through the Ice Box and Bowling Alley, especially if parties are traveling on the upper Disappointment Cleaver when your party is below them. Strategically plan your breaks/rests by choosing areas with less overhead hazard and account for traffic along the route. 

The Disappointment Cleaver itself remains unchanged: use careful footing to avoid kicking rocks on parties below you and keep your rope up off the ground by shortening the rope interval between climbers.

From the top of the Cleaver, looking right at the "new" traverse (8/9/25).

The route has recently experienced the most change above the Disappointment Cleaver. From the top of the Cleaver, there is a new traverse to the north/climber’s right onto the Emmons shoulder. Look for wands and fresh boot-prints traveling up and right around 12,500 ft, immediately above the cleaver. The “old route” went directly up from the Cleaver and should be blocked with wands in an ‘X’, but note that these wands often fall over or become less visible. The traverse maintains a consistent elevation, and at roughly 12,600’, there is a double ladder set up at a ~25° angle. There is a snow plug just downhill from the ladder that is also a crossing option at the time of writing this update. Several fixed pickets exist around the ladder for protection.

The guiding services maintain the route and this equipment but it is available for public use; be respectful of this equipment and any guides you encounter on the route and in camp. They did a lot of hard work this week to get the new route variation in place, so thank them if you get the chance!

8/9/2025 Route Track

Looking up at the double ladder. Approx. 12,600'. The snow plug can be seen on the right hand side of the photo (8/9/25).

Looking down on the double ladder at 12,600 ft on 8/9/25.

From the ladder, the route travels up and then begins to switch back before the final ascending traverse to the crater rim (see photo of track). Again, keep a heads up on the descent for rapidly changing snow or weather conditions, assess every crevasse crossing and consider using techniques like belaying to get your party through terrain. Be safe, have fun, and we look forward to seeing you all out on the Mountain.

A climber traverses back to the top of the Cleaver on 8/9/25.

Additional Information 

More information on climbing on Mt. Rainier can be found on the Mt. Rainier National Park Climbing Page. Here, you will find information about how to pay the Annual Climbing Fee, obtain a Climbing Permit, and make reservations. The Paradise Wilderness Information Center (PWIC) is open daily from 07:30-17:00.

Looking south from Camp Muir under full moonlight during the early morning hours of 8/11/25.