Emmons Winthrop Route Update

The E/W Route has really come into great shape this June. Both skiers and climbers alike have found straightforward navigation up the glacier and crevasses that are easy to end-run or cross.  

Starting from the trailhead at White River Campground, the trail is mostly snow free until about 1/2 mile from Glacier Basin Campground.  From Glacier Basin, expect snowy conditions on the Inter Glacier.  The crevasses on the Inter Glacier haven't started to show and the firm glacial ice has yet to melt out.  Rockfall early in the morning when the snow surface is firm might be the biggest hazard right now on the Inter Glacier. 

Climber and skiers headed to Camp Schurman and up to the higher pitches on the mountain should veer off the Inter Glacier and onto the Emmons Glacier at around 9200', just above Camp Curtis.  Don't get suckered into following tracks to the top of Steamboat Prow.  

Looking down at Camp Schurman and the Streamboat Prow - the red line depicts the approach to Camp Schurman from the Inter Glacier at about 9200 feet.

Above Camp Schurman the route is in incredible shape. Fairly planar and direct up the corridor, an easy traverse from the top of the corridor at about 11,800' towards the upper Winthrop, and then general switchbacks up and right until Liberty Saddle.  Above Liberty Saddle, about 13,600', the surface conditions deteriorate with ice and sastrugi making for poor skiing conditions and tricky cramponing.  

Switchback up to Liberty Saddle, fairly planar snow.  

As always, and especially with the hot weather we're experiencing right now, major route changes can occur with glacial movement and the surface conditions of the glaciers can vary drastically depending on the time of day.  

Looking up towards the summit from Liberty Saddle.

Make sure to register at the ranger station to get your permit and pay the climbing fee.  Lately, there's been lots of walk-up availability, especially on weekdays.  Hope to see you up on the mountain as the solstice approaches!

Kautz Glacier 06/01/2025

The weather over the last week has brought mostly sunny days, moderate temperatures for this time of year with freeze levels bouncing between 9-11k, and consistent north winds providing for generally pleasant climbing conditions. Still, a few brief systems have rolled through as reminders to stay prepared for wintry weather and whiteout navigation, though little new snow has accumulated. Long days and warm weather as we head into summer continue melt and change surface conditions daily.

From Panorama Point looking across the Nisqually and Wilson Glaciers at the aproach to the Kautz.

As of 6/01/2025 the approach to the Kautz from Paradise is still predominantly snow, starting at the parking lot. Crossing the lower Nisqually glacier and gaining the Wilson bench is straightforward currently and climbers' have options as to how they would like to reach the Turtle snowfield. There have been few days with freeze level below 9K recently and snow conditions are changing rapidly at low elevations. Be wary of soft and sagging snow bridges over crevasses, as well as overhead cornice and rockfall potential. As a reminder, the lower Nisqually and Wilson are glaciated terrain and traveling roped up is always recommended. 

The Turtle snowfield and camp Hazard looking up from the Castle at 9k'

From the Castle up the ridgeline along the Turtle to the rock step, multiple camp sites/tent pads are starting to melt out and running water is occasionally found in the rocks, but water maybe unavailable if the freezing level is low. The rock step is melted out with 15' of traversing downclimb to reach snow. There was a handline in place on 6/01/25, however never trust your life to fixed gear without inspecting the anchor and rope quality first and be prepared to manage this feature on your own. Traversing from the rock step into the main Kautz chute is moderate snow currently, however the traverse moves under seracs that require attention. 

The rock step looking forward

The rock step looking back, 10-15' of traversing-down climbing to a snow ledge.

The Kautz chute is currently steep snow through the first pinch, ~50 degrees, but a few more warm days may melt this down to glacier ice. The second and final step of the chute was one pitch of AI2 and steep snow. A light rack of pickets, several ice screws, and two axes were useful for this pitch. Above the chute the route continues into low angle glacier walking towards the Wapowety Cleaver. There are several large cracks in this 12-13k' zone that are bridged currently allowing for direct travel but may require long end runs as they melt out. 

The Kautz chute from the rock step. The lower pinch is still snow while the upper requires a pitch of AI2 climbing.   

Steep snow leading into the ice pitch of the upper chute.

Above the Wapowety cleaver, climber's currently have the option to head climber's left towards Point Success through the steep snow of the upper Kautz, or climber's right onto the upper Nisqually glacier and towards the Columbia Crest through lower angle terrain. Moving off the Wapowety Cleaver onto the Nisqually may increase in difficulty as the moat along the cleaver melts and widens. 

Low angle glacier travel of the upper Kautz below the Wapowety Cleaver.