Monday, May 12, 2025

Conditions Update 5/12/25

Ascending to Camp Muir is still mostly continuous snow with spots of rock beginning to show through. As snow melts, we ask that folks stick to wanded routes and snow surfaces to reduce impacts on vegetated terrain. As always it is encouraged to keep a track of your ascent route in the event that weather changes quickly - this will allow you to retrace your steps.  

Snowfield ascent to Muir 5/9/25

If climbing or skiing on a glacier or above 10,000 feet you need a permit (every time you come up to climb) and to pay the annual climbing fee (only once per calendar year). The PWIC (Paradise Information Center) is now open for the season at Paradise seven days a week 7:30 - 5:00. The White River Ranger station is still operating on a self-registration format. As always, climbers will need to pay the Annual Climbing Fee. More information can be found here

Climbing: Climbers have been ascending both the Ingraham Direct (ID) and Disappointment Cleaver (DC) route. Currently the DC has a few sections of rock and is predominantly still snow. Both the ID and DC routes had large sized serac fall cross the established routes. As always, limit time exposed to these hazards by moving efficiently and timing stops accordingly. 

Serac fall in the Ice Box on the Ingraham Glacier 5/10/25

Ingraham Flats with the DC and ID routes 5/10/25







Emmons/ Winthrop: 

The road to White River Campground and the trailhead to Glacier Basin is plowed but still closed to vehicles.  Some intrepid skiers have been biking from the North Park Boundary to the trailhead (11 miles) when the road is open to recreational use.  Be sure to note the sign on the gate as to whether the road is open to recreational-use or not.  There's still heavy equipment working and occasionally the road will close to bikers/hikers.  The trail from White River Campground to Glacier Basin is still mostly snow, but with long patches of dirt.  It's recommended to bring shoes/boots other than ski boots.  

Both the Emmons Moraine approach and Inter Glacier approach to Camp Schurman are in good shape.  Planar snow that's great for skiing can be found on both the Emmons and Inter. One bathroom is open at Camp Schurman and the blue bag barrel is open outside the bathroom.

The climbing route above Camp Schurman is in great shape, but untraveled.  Be prepared to be self-sufficient and find your own route up the glacier - there's no boot pack or wands to guide the way.  

Looking up the lower Emmons Glacier 5/9/25

Leave No Trace: Rangers have already noted human waste on climbing routes. Do your part and carry blue bags / wag bags on the mountain... and use them! Disposal of these can be done at both high camps, in barrels outside the bathrooms with flip lids. Additionally, for those that use the public shelter located at Camp Muir, remember to pack out what you have packed in - no trash left behind - even if you think someone might utilize it.

Weather: As Mount Rainier moves into summer weather we are continuing to see active weather patterns. Over the last few days, the Park has seen sun, rain and snow with winds ranging from calm to extreme speeds. Always do a thorough weather check before venturing onto the mountain and expect weather to change quickly. Be prepared for whiteout navigation with GPS tracks and mapping tools.  Also - remember that if you venture out in extreme weather any rescue resource may not be able to help you.  Helicopters cannot fly in clouds near the mountain and rescue crews will be delayed or unable to assist in extreme winds.  

Whiteout conditions on the Muir Snowfield 5/11/25