Wednesday, September 18, 2024

Autumn Winter 24/ 25

Any party considering climbing should note that at this time the guide services have ceased operations on the upper mountain, and as such have removed all route adjuncts including ladders and handlines. While the boot pack previously used is still quite visible on the mountain, it will lead you to places where these adjuncts were previously in place, and where the crossings are no longer viable as such.

This significantly increases the technicality of moving through this terrain, and travel on the mountain, more than ever, will require independent route finding and assessment. Alongside this, there is a dramatically decreased likelihood of encountering other parties who could provide assistance in the case of an emergency. Any climber attempting the summit this time of year should consider it an off-season climb and be very experienced, totally self-sufficient, and realize that any emergency help could be not just hours, but days away. 

In the regular season, a trip to Camp Muir can often be done without that extra equipment, but as we move further into the season, conditions become extreme and can become dangerous with icy, crevassed surface conditions being hidden by fresh snow. 

Late season storms can roll in with little warning and can be much more vigorous and longer lasting than summer squalls. Please check the weather forecast before starting your trip - click on the Weather Resources tab above for some starting places - but keep in mind that forecasting for Mt Rainier is very difficult, so prepare for the unexpected! 

Stretches of beautiful summer-like weather can also be possible, and late-season visits do offer more solitude than the more popular times, but please be cautious this time of year. All climbers are still required to pay the annual climbing fee (which can be done online ahead of time) and obtain a climbing permit (which has switched to self-registration for the winter season and can be done in-person at the Paradise Old Station).  

Self Registration is at the Paradise Ranger Station near the center of the photo.
Self-Registration is at the Paradise Ranger Station near the center of the photo.

Enjoy the change of seasons and climb safe!