The Emmons-Winthrop route currently follows the standard path up out of Camp Schurman. Small cracks have opened up low on the route and the first major crevasse crossing is around 11,400 ft. There's two options to cross this crevasse - one option is going straight up over a snowbridge or working climber's left and end-running the crack. As of the day this blog is written, the snow bridge here remains and has been the option used the most. After the anticipated heat-wave however, this option might fall through, forcing climbers to go left. Many are opting to place fall-protection to navigate this section, especially on the descent.
The route then continues with several long, right-hand traverses to avoid large crevasses. The last long right-hand traverse is at 13,400 ft. to end run the bergschrund and get to Liberty Saddle. It is within this zone the route travels directly under large seracs immediately above. Move efficiently and do not take breaks under this or any overhead hazard. Surface conditions have been decent overall but expect a wide variety of soft, firm, wind-board, and so forth throughout the entirety of the route.
Overhead serac hazard around 13k
Worth noting that the heat wave forecasted is expected to put freezing levels at 16000ft +. Many days of this heat has historically taken a large toll on the entirety of the mountain. Seracs, snowbridges, rocks, crevasse openings, wet-loose avalanches, and more can all be potential hazards worth heavily reiterating as the mountain melts during this heat wave.
Skiers: See our recent post about Ski-Mo or Ski-No
Skier numbers on the upper mountain have been dwindling drastically as the upper slopes do not offer very good snow conditions for skiing. There are large open crevasses that would be extremely dangerous in the event of a fall on skis in the wrong spot. The few parties that have brought skis have been opting to leave them at the top of the Corridor, at around 11,400 feet, and continue to the summit on foot.
Additional Information
It is strongly recommended that parties rope up if ascending or descending from Camp Schurman via the lower Emmons. There is a large crevasse complex just below camp that you have to cross. It is opening quickly, and bridges are getting thinner every day.
It is worth reiterating from the last post to never abandon your climbing partners on the upper mountain. NEVER split up. If you are climbing, stay together, roped up. If you are skiing, stay close enough to see each other and spot each other.
Proper food and blue bag storage is still very important. Rangers have found multiple wag/blue bags at the Emmons Flats Camp that were left out and compromised by the ravens. They will get into waste and food if not stored properly. Please practice Leave No Trace! See you on the mountain!
