Thursday, July 20, 2023

DC Route Update 7/20

    A few updates for all on our ever-changing route up the Disappointment Cleaver.
Sunset over Little T as seen from above the DC.
 
     Overall, the majority of the route itself remains very “punched in”. There continues to be frequent success for guide parties and independent teams alike with the recent high pressure. One will notice however, that throughout the season the route is evolving and presenting new hazards. We’re getting to that point in the summer where the mountain begins to rapidly transform, leading to both small and large changes to the upper mountain climbing.

     As of early morning on Tuesday July 18th, there is a “reroute” from roughly 13,100 until 13,800ft. The upper wall of a crevasse the route traveled over collapsed which led made the crack impassible. Guide teams were able to reroute at this collapse, taking climbers right to end-run this crack and ultimately traverse over to the Emmons Shoulder. The previous route that led climbers on a traverse towards the Nisqually/Camp Comfort is no more! As this blog is being written, route working teams are on the upper mountain adjusting and fine tuning this new path. It is anticipated that this redirect to the Emmons Shoulder is what will become the norm. 

     If your party plans on climbing in the coming few days, expect this new route to not be as much of a “punched in” sidewalk as the previous one. There might be pickets placed as running protection over the new exposed traverse as well. Embrace the challenge of climbing Mt. Rainier by being some of the first to climb behind the teams pioneering the latest track to the summit. 

     Regardless if the route is new, old, or in a trough, use good glacial judgement skills and your own discretion… Listen in on what your climbing ranger at Muir has to say on the tips and techniques of success to this route. 

     Happy Climbing!!