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| A nighttime view of the Emmons |
As we move into mid-June here on Mount Rainier, the Emmons-Winthrop Route is mostly still intact. The route has been seeing more skier traffic the last few weekends than boot traffic and some single push parties on the mountain. As a reminder for folks who are looking to ski/climb the route in a single push, you are still required to obtain a permit! These permits are issued by our wilderness information centers that are open from 7:30 am - 5:00 pm. See our recent blog post about Single Push Permitting.
From the White River Campground, the trail is completely free of snow until just above Glacier Basin. The Inter glacier is still skiable with the snowline starting just above Glacier Basin. Continue following the Upper Glacier Basin Trail onto the Inter Glacier and climb to Camp Curtis before descending onto the Emmons glacier below Camp Schurman. We have observed some climbing parties ascending the lower Emmons into Camp Schurmann completely unroped. This is ill advised as this terrain, like most glaciers - is heavily crevassed and an unroped fall here could have severe consequences. With warmer temperatures as we move into the summer season the risk of punching through weakening snow bridges is even higher. Please don't take snack breaks on top of snow bridges or the lips of crevasses (we have seen it happen)!
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| A skier crosses a crevassed section of the lower Emmons. |
The main note on the Emmons-Winthrop Route is a very large crevasse that starts around 12,300 ft. in elevation and climbs diagonally to climbers left up the shoulder. It is no longer possible to climb directly up and over this. The route goes either climbers' left or right around this crack. Trying to end run it to the right, there was a thin snow bridge that was marginally plugged with snow and most parties seem to be going this way. Going left, the crack seemed to be more filled in, though it did require some route finding and deliberate movement to manage the terrain. From here most groups continue in standard fashion up route, gaining a little over 1000 vertical feet and ending up at the saddle between the summit and Liberty Cap and trending climbers left towards the summit.
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| Possible routes up the Emmons-Winthrop |
As the season progresses, continue to closely monitor the weather on your summit bid days. Warmer temperatures and higher freezing levels increase hazard as the snowpack is not as consolidated as it is at cooler temperatures. When temperatures are in question, leave earlier! Avoid crossing questionable snow bridges late in the day when the snow is soft and punchy.
A view of Little Tahoma from Camp Schurman
