As the summer presses on climbers continue to summit via the Emmons Winthrop route.
The Inter Glacier is down to mostly skeletal ice and crevasses are obvious and numerous. Use crampons, ice axe, and ice screws if you choose to go this way. Another option is Mt. Ruth, there is a good climbers trail that gains the southern ridge line from Glacier basin. The climbers trail follows the ridge all the way to Steamboat Prow. Finding the trail from glacier basin is not obvious, so talk with rangers at White River to get more information before planning to use this trail. There is a mandatory water crossing at glacier basin so extra socks and shoes are a good idea when using Mt. Ruth.
The glaciers have dropped away from both sides of Camp Schurman reducing access options from the Emmons. There is a moat crossing getting onto the Emmons from Camp Curtis. Some climbing parties are opting to use Steamboat Prow for access to camp. Climbers will encounter loose rock and steep exposed terrain with either option.
From Camp Schurman to Emmons Flats climbers will encounter mostly broken glacial ice. Crossing the flats up to the corridor is still snow covered and fairly direct. Climbers can still find decent camping options at the flats. The corridor up to 11,000' is a mix of snow and ice with crevasses still hidden under thin bridges of snow.
From the top of the corridor the route goes left around a large ice serac before traversing back climbers right to gain the alpine meadow around 12,000'. The route continues to traverse back climbers right out to the Winthrop shoulder. From the shoulder, climbers will end run crevasses up to 13,200'. At this point climbers can go left or right. Going left will lead climbers on broad open terrain that will eventually connect to the DC route. Going right, climbers will encounter steep broken snow bridges before reaching the bergschrund around 13,800. Traversing the bergschrund to the climbers right will lead to lower angle terrain leading to the crater rim.
Climbing the Emmons is a real mountaineering adventure and will require route finding and self reliance. Another round of high pressure and 15,000' freezing levels are forecasted for the coming week. Conditions are everchanging and finding your way down off the mountain may be different from the way you came up. Be prepared for the unexpected and plenty of wilderness solitude.
