Leaving Paradise and heading up the Skyline Trail provides climbers the most straightforward path to the snowfield. Cross Pebble Creek at the red marked rock and avoid any off trail travel here. The meadows from Paradise to Pebble Creek are fragile. Rangers need every climber and user to stay on the trail to protect this wonderful, but fragile resource. Above Pebble Creek, the trail stays in the rocks until a well defined bootpack takes you up the steep snow rolls and onto the snowfield.
Snowfield to Camp Muir
The lower portion of the snowfield takes a straightforward path alternating between sections of rock and snow up to approximately 8,200.' Here, consistent snow and an easy to follow bootpack leads to Camp Muir. The upper third of the Muir Snowfield has been changing quickly with this weeks hot weather. Watch out for crevasses opening up on the snowfield, especially around 9,400 feet. Cooler temperatures after this weekend might encourage parties to crampon up for sections of the snowfield above 9,000 feet.
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| Smoke column from the Schneider Springs Fire seen from the Cowlitz Glacier on 8/10/2021 |
On your way to Camp Muir, you might notice smoke from a wildfire east of the park. The fire is called the Schneider Springs fire, and it is currently burning on National Forest land and wilderness. The fire poses no threat to the park, and more information about it can be found here: Schneider Springs Information - InciWeb the Incident Information System (nwcg.gov)
Camp Muir to Ingraham Flats
Moving across the Cowlitz follows the typical arcing path up and over Cathedral Gap. Be aware that your exposure to rockfall is high on this portion of the trail. After gaining the ridge, the trail drops towards the Ingraham and soon you will find yourself on an icy/rocky trail. If you are using a headlamp through here be on the lookout for small indications of previous travelers like crampon marks and reflective wands to stay on trail. Soon, the icy portion gives way to a solid path leading up the Ingraham, passing the flats camp area.
Ingraham Flats to the Cleaver
After ascending the Ingraham glacier you will gain high crack, which is currently passable over a snow bridge. Just beyond high crack, a ladder crosses an open crevasse on level terrain. There is no handline on this crossing, but the level nature keeps it relatively low key. Always use your own judgement to assess any "fixed protection" along the route, and consider adding a belay of some sort to increase safety or confidence.
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| The ladder just beyond high crack before the traverse to Disappointment Cleaver |
Climbers will lose some elevation traversing north toward the Disappointment Cleaver and the bootpack is narrow, requiring focus. As you approach the cleaver, head slightly downhill towards a pile of talus. You will cross the moat between the cleaver and the glacier by walking across boulders that have fallen into the moat. Once on the cleaver, head up a steep and loose slope with a couple of moves which require using your hands. 20' of sandy steps to put you onto the proper Cleaver trail. The lower portion of the Cleaver continues north taking the climber toward the spine. Move quickly through this section, as it is exposed to rockfall from above.
The traverse towards the cleaver is an area of increased risk emanating from objective ice and rockfall. Plan your breaks and your crossing of this zone to be as efficient and focused as possible. Consider a break after gaining the Cleaver, and remember to shorten your rope interval when traveling through the Cleaver to minimize dislodging rocks on parties below.
Disappointment Cleaver
The trail up the cleaver can be hard to follow at times, but keep your eyes on the lookout for reflective wands and you should be able to make steady progress. Toward the top of the DC, the trail ascends 150' of sun cupped glacier to the top of the Cleaver, which is a popular break spot.
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| Ingraham Flats from Disappointment Cleaver |
Upper Mountain
Guides are reporting few changes to the route above the cleaver. There is a crevasse crossing at approximately 13,200' which utilizes two ladders lashed together. The ladder is set at about a 45 degree angle, and well anchored on both sides. There are handlines to assist in this crossing. Know that the ladder has been a choke point for climbers ascending and descending the mountain. Be prepared to stagger your ascent from other parties on the upper mountain, to avoid waiting in a queue at the ladder.
General Notes
Come prepared with a shovel so you can level out a good tent spot at Camp Muir. It is a good idea to throw a couple ice screws into your pack when preparing for your climb. The snow on the upper mountain continues to melt down to firmer, older snow, that will soon accept screws. Also, remember to secure your tent well at Camp Muir before you leave for the climb. Rangers have noticed some tents threatening to blow away while climbers are on route. You can always collapse the tent and pile a few rocks on top to make sure it doesn't take off down the Cowlitz glacier. Hot temperatures will make hydration extra difficult this weekend. Bring plenty of water and electrolytes to help stay hydrated.
