The record breaking heat has subsided and temperatures in the shade are returning to a more normal-summer-hot. Freezing levels have dropped to around 15,000' and when coupled with clear nights have been allowing surface snow to refreeze each evening. This has slowed the deterioration of the route, stabilized some of the snow and ice, and allowed climbers to access the summit regularly. A small system moving in Tuesday evening should bring freezing levels down even further and aid in locking up the ice and snow on the mountain for a bit.  |
| Yellow route is seeing the most traffic currently with the exception of the final bergschrund, where climbers are following the green route around to climbers' right. Orange is the most traveled route through the top of the Corridor. |
The Emmons/Winthrop Route is still climbable. The route outlined in the previous update remains the standard thoroughfare with some minor amendments. The first is a climbers' left traverse below the 11,400' crack at the top of the corridor. After the traverse climbers have been ascending a small snowfield then turning back climbers' right to regain the route. The second amendment is a climbers' right traverse at the final bergschrund. This will bring climbers to a broad ramp that accesses the final stretch to the summit.
As our seasonal snow continues to melt and the glaciers keep flowing down mountain, the route is going to keep changing. Those changes could very well happen while you're on the route. This becomes especially problematic when the route you took up is no longer viable for the way down. To prepare for this, make sure you have plenty of gas in the tank to problem solve on the way down. This may mean you have to turn around short of the summit so that you have the energy to climb out of a dead end. Another strategy is to establish a hard cutoff turn around time and stick to it. Regardless of your strategy, remember to stick together as a team and keep a critical eye out for options as you ascend.
Come on up and enjoy the peaceful leeward side of the mountain!
